I'm currently regrounding and was thinking this would be a hole lot easier if someone had a writeup on all the crounding locations??? Is there anything like this? At least does anyone know where the rear rotor grounding point is?? Thanks.

 

There are a few searchable threads but amazingly no one has done the definitive, illustrated grounding thread, as far as I am concerned.

 

I know now what my mission will be over this week. I was about to do a good regrounding on my vehicy.

 

i am pretty sure there are some good ones out there, if you search and compile all the info from those threads, you will be fine... just search for grounding locations, not crounding locations

 

i think rotaryressurection has a write up on making grounds

 

The rear rotor grounding point you are talking about is the main ground for the injectors and ECU I believe. It it located under the UIM on top of the rear rotor housing on the driverside. Lemme see if I have a picture.

 

Here is one I snapped but it's not a very good one.

 

That one's the biggie, on the housing (75% of the ECU grounds go to that spot)

It's not "all definitive", but I wrote about how to properly clean up & reground your existing OEM grounds in the "basic electrical troubleshooting for the rx7" thread I did a while back...Might still be out there in searchable cyberspace somewhere...

 

Ok I regrounded everything including fuel pump rewire, boost sensor, alternator, battery and even redid the connections on the msd6a fired it up and same problem with hesitation (hitting brick wall, backfiring ) at higher rpm's 3,500rpm to 4,000rmp only when mashing the peddle. So the only think I need to reground that I haven't besides coils (getting blaser 2 coils later this week) is the ecu. I'm not exactly sure how to do this even though I've seen many differant threads on this. My question is more simple however. I just don't know how you want to ground those four wires. here is a crued drawing of an ecu and how I think it is done. If yall don't mind just telling me if it is right or wrong. Thanks. Oh and if it is wrong how to do it the correct way.

 

.

 

sounds like you have more of a limp mode problem than a grounding problem

 

limp mode??? is that the same thing that occurs when I see a fat chick lol, anyways what is limp mode? All I did was take off the throttle body and bam when I put it back on I had the hesitation. I don't get it

 

oh thanks for the pic and wayne I read your write up! Very impressive! Thanks for the replys however I have one question. I made a ground going from the rear housing to the firewall almost in that same exact location, there was not a ground there already. basically I took that bolt out that holds down the 4 or 5 lines and put a ground there but this did not do anything for me. Is there supposed to be a ground going from the rear rotor housing to the wiring harness??? Thanks.

 

limp mode happenes when there is something wrong to the point where the engine shuts down and runs barely enough to get you home or to the shop to get fixed. if you took off your throttle body you might have a vaccum leak. do yo uhave a unsteady idle ?? or racing rpms ?? could just be a vaccum leak

 

There is NO limp mode on a series four. Never has been ...never will be.

 

Hailers is right. Limp mode is only on s5 models and can only be activated if the OMP fails.

 

On an S4, if you're happily cruising along and your water thermo sensor circuit decides to break intermittently, you'll sure as hell think there's a limp mode, lol...

Hondahater- some guys ground the ECU wires near the ECU, in the cabin, even though most of them actually ground out on the engine. I've heard this may help, and if it does, it means your electrical bonding is shot between your engine & chassis (that wire that runs between the top of the tranny & the firewall, and the big starter ground that bonds to the chassis at the left strut tower on its way to the battery)

 

Thanks everyone. My idle is fine!! Actually never better after installing the stock ic back from the ghetto front mount I had. I dont' know what the deal could be after just taking of the tb. Strange.... How exactly is the rear rotor housing gound installed. What does it connect from (wiring harness???).

 

anyone? what could cause an s4 to run like **** after taking off the tb. only thing I adjusted was idle posisioning screw.

 

if switching back intercoolers fixed the problem, maybe there was a leak in the piping or even the core itself

 

Actually, although OMP failure may be the #1 cause of limp mode, I've had it happen with error code 01 "trailing coil." In the case of my 1990 GTU, I had a bad starter that was internally shorting somehow. Replacing it made everything fine again.

 

****.... How exactly is the rear rotor housing gound installed. What does it connect from (wiring harness???).*****

Your ECU has internal grounds that go to pins 3G, 2R, 2C and 3A which in turn go to the ground point on the rear rotor housing. There are mechanical splices in the harness that these grounds meet at/connect to. Some are good......some not so good.

Your diagram looks like what you might want to do. Note the wires involved in the above sentence.

Now the real deal. WHY CAN'T I TYPE LIKE THIS AND NOT HAVE SOME CREEP WRITE BACK THAT I MUST NOT TYPE IN CAPS........BUT SOME LOWLIFE CAN COME ON THIS SITE AND write real tiny small like this and use no periods or commas und use wtf etc, not spell but every fifth word right.......... BUT I AM NOT ALLOWED TO USE CAPS. WHAT A BUNCH OF BS. (Note: the hater of hondas is not implicated in the previous....just venting steam).

 

UM.....LOL, I DON'T MIND IF YOU WRITE IN CAPS, INFACT IN THIS THREAD (SINCE ITS MINE) AND YOU HAVE BEEN HELPING ME OUT (WITCH I AM GREATFUL FOR) GO FOR IT! Anyways I'm going to go ahead and reground these connections today. Thanks man!!!! and tomuch4you I think you are exactly right and one day I will get a nice front mount but until that day tmic it is!

 

LOL HAILERS you're INSANE man NEED to cut back a LITTLE on your MEDS though ...

Hondahater-I can't figure out exactly WHERE you're talking about placing your "grounds", since you don't seem to have a grasp of exactly where your rotor housing ground is. The best obvious solution is to find that housing ground (you can see it with the TB & UIM on, but can't really get to it that well without removing same). You should see two seperate wires coming out of the sheathing that Mazda uses to wrap the harness, and a ring terminal bolted under a 12mm bolt on the rear part of the rat's nest attach point. The main problem with this ground, as I see it, is that the rat's nest metal is steel alloy, and the rotor housing is aluminum, which results in dissimilar metal corrosion over time. Now, "manufacture" another 10 or 12 gauge jumper with ring terminals on each end, one end will go right on top of that rotor housing ring terminal (so both will be bolted down under that bolt), and the other end will go to the firewall- this effectively bypasses the OEM bonding jumper at the tranny, and results in better electrical conductivity for that rotor housing ground. If this doesn't seem to help, something else is wrong (perhaps the splices inside the harness that Hailers was refering to)...

 

well that is basically what I did. However I did not see any ground where you guys are talking about. However I did manufactur my own 12 gauge ground with ring terminals (soldered) and connected one end to the rear rotor housing on one end to the fire wall however like I said before I didn't see any ground other than the ground at the back pasenger side of the engine to the firewall. Can I ground this at the ecu??? I am just about to ground at the ecu and was wondering if there are any more than just one ground. Thanks.