jar2

I'm quite aware that rotaries are prone to flooding, but this is just stupid. Before this was happening the Pulsation dampener was leaking and so were the and so were one of the injectors and my thermowax was screwed to hell(not sure if that matters). Now after I've gotten the fuel leaks fixed and the thermowax adjusted properly it's always flooded. It'll start up one good time in the morning, then the rest of the day I have to de-flood it. Any ideas as to what it is. BTW, it is an 87 gtu, n/a.m Thanks in advance.

w0ppe

Rotaries are prone to flooding if you do not let the engine run up to Operating Temperature. The engine will need to warm up during this time.
I would check all my injectors as well as the seals that go to it. Are your injectors also working properly?

jar2

INjectors are fine, no leakage, new o rings and grommets on them.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

start with a compression test, easier than pulling your hair out trying to diagnose a phantom issue first.

jar2

I already that I have low compression because it's always a battle to start the car but my dad( since I'm only 18) decides not to be lieve me about anything that's wrong with the car therefore he won't let me spend the money for a compression test because he thinks I'm just dumb though he'd never even heard of a rotary engine until I bought my 7.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You could check pin 2I at the ECU which corresponds to the Water Thermosensor, which if acting improperly could be injecting more fuel than required. The Green/White wire at pin 2I when backprobed w/key to on and the engine cold reads 2 to 3 volts while with a warm engine the reading would be very close to .5 volts. If this checks out okay then you might try removing the pin (depinning) to 3B (start signal) at the ECU which would then reduce the fuel used upon starting the car.

959595rotor

Tell Dad that I am....... 61 and he should give his head a shake,all rotaries have to test compression to establish if the Engine is good ,75 LBS or lower is hard to start (new engine 125)to test compression, remove Inj fuse from under hood on left side (FUSE BOX) remove 2 upper plugs front and rear, and then remove the compression gauge's. lower air valve. insert into front spark plug hole have someone turn over Engine while keeping the gas pedal floored....then watch for thee pulses from the rotor ,repeat for back rotor compare the values if you see 2 low pulses in a row, then one normal one you might have carbon lock or a poorly sealing apex seal on that rotor,if they all are close you may have another issue

HAILERS2

Make a fuel cut switch. You turn the fuel pump off when your trying to start the flooded car. When it actually starts you immediatley flip the switch to ON so the pump will run once more.

This should get you by for quite a while. You don't have to pull EGI fuses etc doing the fuel cut switch.

jar2

Could I also turn the fuel pump off with said switch before I actually turn off the car to prevent flooding?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

External fuel leaks aren't what cause flooding. Did you search for this subject at all?

Most auto parts stores will actually loan a compression tester. Information on how to use it can be found on this site by searching.

dennis blackstone

in my early days of building engines with same housings and firing them up with no flooding issues with super low compression
i figured its not low compression

i now guys who bought rx8s new with flooding issues


everyone says low compresion nooooooooooooooooooooooo

go standalone and harness i bet it goes away

when are cars are so old its best to invest in one
to save headaches

3vil

iTrader: (4)

water temp sensor, compression test, and leak test on injectors. you are 18 and it's your car, why are you letting your father decide the what's necessary?

HAILERS2

Yes you could turn the pump off with the switch and let it die and then turn the key off.

The fuel cut switch is something to get you by til you can find a fix for whatever is ailing the car. Its just easier than pulling fuses etc.

Aftermarket ECU's like halltech or mickytech ususally fix starting/flood problems because when the operator *programs* his new computer he selects how much fuel gets delivered during Start. Much like what the RTEK2.1 does. On the RTEK you can select how much fuel is delivered in ms during start and that solves any starting problems due to flooding and after making that adjustment once the operator will have no flooding problems anymore.

Those options cost a bit of money. The fuel cut switch cost a small amount of time and ???? five bucks on the outside?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

don't confuse saying it is low compression with testing for compression. it sounds like you're putting words in my mouth.

a compression test literally takes me less than 5 minutes and rules out spending hours looking at BS that may not even be causing the issue.

if you don't think compression causes flooding issues, that's your opinion and you're welcome to it.

DallasFC1

iTrader: (2)

Also, if you managed to blow a coolant seal it could be letting antifreeze settle into the rotor housings and causing insanely hard starts and or flooding issues. After you do a compression test (which if your coolant seals are to blame, the test should come out to average compression provided you don't have internal damage), let the car warm up, then turn it off, wait an hour. Pull the EGI fuse remove leading spark plugs, hold white paper up to the holes, turn the engine a few times with the starter, and inspect your paper for debris and/or coolant.


Just a quick idea for you since I have had this problem before. Either way, compression test is the only sure way to start this whole process of fixing your hard start/flooding issues.

Also, please remember to keep that battery charged FC's do weird things on a low battery.

-Good luck!

jar2

Yea I've searched for it and I want some other opinions before I go to work on it.

jar2

Because I was shipped off to Missouri to live with him and left behind my job so all the money for my car has to come from him.

dennis blackstone

if i was to start again with my 7 my first investment would be a standalone and time on a dyno for ars....point is i started out rebuilding engines with bad housings but not one 7 i put together had hot start or flooding so i found it was not the compression ...

then i delved deeper into why some guys engines would flood ...come to find out after they installed a haltech or wolf 3d etc no more flooding or hot start

the rx8 communty has this problem with newer motors

junk your ecu and get any stand alone

dcrews

iTrader: (2)

jar- what part of MO? We have a local rotary club here in SW MO...

jar2

Grandview. Right outside of Kansas City