HAILERS

Ignore this jpg. Testing

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Does it matter which way the flat piece / shim goes on the end of that shaft ? mine is already inside the omp where it goes and you can see the letter C facing up, the otherside has a little nub in the center.

I think that its on the right way but id hate to find out its not.

Im about to go and clean up the parts some more and try putting it together.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

So if everything is in order, the spring part is on top and the other two pieces are below ? (from top to bottom of omp) , the parts were in the opposite order on the other pic.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I just got it all together, it seems like its all together the right way i put it exactly how you had it in that last pic.

The spring doesnt seem the greatest but it works.

Theres not much area the lever actually moves only from where its normal sitting position is then to full throttle, any less than in normal position and spring will come off.

Now I'm going to wait another day before I go out and put it on the car because i have to wait for the RTV to set and just incase someone says I did anything wrong so I dont have to go and take it all off again.

The spot on the block where the omp has nothing on it , should it have a rag or something or will it not matter since I'll be fixing it tommorow and its only a short time away ?

HAILERS

You MIGHT have the spring on wrong. IF you lift the lever to the full up position and let go, the spring should return the lever *smartly* back to the full down position.

It sounds like when you lever is full down, the spring is loosy goosy with no tension on the lever to the down position.

The only way I can get that spring on right, is let the lever move outboard a touch, and WIND the spring with the lever by rotating it in a clockwise direction about a full rotation (memory). You can only do this if the lever is pulled outboard enough for the lever to miss that *stop pin)

I just did one right now while typing this. Jpg will be attached. There's tension on that lever and the spring isn't loose when resting full down.

I wouldn't worry about the open cavity on the front cover.

HAILERS

Frankly I never saw that shim/brass looking thing before. I've taken about six of these things apart in the past and never saw it before. For some reason the one in the picture above had one........and I've had this outfit fully apart before and never saw it. Odd.

I think you can flip it either way and install it and be ok.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I realized i only put rtv in the spots where the oring was but not the mating area to help it seal but i think it will still probably seal anyways from the rtv i put in where the orings should be.

I will put it on tommorow and I'll have to drive to the store to get one of the copper crush washers and then later put that on after the car is cooled down.

I expect to have the car running around 4:00 and come back around 5:00 with the crush washer.

Does anyone know the exact size of the crush washers ? I dont know the size myself and would have to look it up but I'll probably get a whole new set since they cost probably like 25 cents each.

HAILERS

Just a dab of RTV around the o'rings on the end plates should do the job. There's no real pressure in the pump itself.

Sorry, I've never replaced the copper washers ever before in the past. They never looked to be 'crush" washers to me. Looked just like common copper washers. Mine were not damaged so I reuse them.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Well I took out the orings on both endplates and put rtv inside the spots where the orings were. (black rtv)

I just didnt put any on the mating surfaces, I didnt realize this until after reading more on here...but I think it will seal to the rtv inside the spots where the orings were that i put rtv in.

I just did what you said to fix the spring , it has nice tension on it now, heres a pic to show you where it lets me open it to.

I modified your pic to show approximately where it opens to, it obviously stays on the pin now though when closed (no throttle),

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

That last post i messed up on the pic, heres a pic to show where i can fully open the omp lever to.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I just finished putting it all on and drove it and it still leaks, but I still have to get a copper crush washer for one of the lines , maybe that will stop the leak , if not then oh well.

At least the leak is small.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I was wondering if I did this 100% right or if there is a way to see that the omp is working properly getting oil through the lines ?

I think I could tell before when the car was runnign that oil was going through, but it was only because I could see tiny bubbles moving in the omp lines.

Is that pretty much the only way to see it's working without taking off two lines and seeing if two drip (i think thats what the haynes manual says to do).

Hopefully everything is good, but the leak I have hasnt gone away...Im wondering if it was even the omp leaking and maybe it could be something else...but I doubt the front cover would be leaking and I wouldnt be very happy if i found out it was seeing the engine was just rebuild 2500 miles ago.