rx racer

we just got the motor in tonight and the facker wont start its turningover and getting lots of fuel and just about to start than it dont. we took out the spark plugs and some gas poured out. and they are covered in it. we took them out and pulled the fuses and turned it over alot of gas came out, we than put atf in it and cleaned the plugs and out it all back in. it still wont start.

does the crank angle sensor have to be lined up perfect for it to start? cause that might be a lil bit off to.
i duno we are stuck right now and dont know what els to do

what do you all think?

2a+RoN

timing could definately screw it up, but i'm not sure how off you mean. try tow-starting it, i had to do that the first couple of times starting my rebuild.

loofeeTurboII

yes try pull start it.. it works well for the 1st couple of start on fresh new engines..then after that let it idle..and by let it idle i mean for a day or more..
then after that a fuel cut switch will be ideal thing to do for the 1st 500 miles..
but for now tow start or push start should work..every time it dies unflood it. regularly check on ur plugs..and have a set or 2 on hand just in case.. i'm on my 3rd set now..and i only have 168 miles in it..i swap it every time i took out and clean th eother set ( which is everyday )
afetr that is timing set ( i'm still working on that )
and keep us posted.
BTW: double check all vac line, gas line, oil line, all pressure, and have ur friends around JUST IN CASE *** very very important!!
good luck

rx racer

k I see that 1 hose is off for sure. its the lil one that goes from the upper intake to the egr valve.

would that cause anything?

also when we installed the crank angle sensor it wasnot in the same positon as the one in the rebuild vid. the lil rotors were off a bit. but would that really cause any problems?

also it it normall for a new rebuild not to start? and to flood?

loofeeTurboII

YES it is normal for RE_BUILT engine to flood, spacially S4 engines..it is actualy recomended to install a fuel cut off switch in S4 re-built ( and also good for security )
and yes unplug or miss plug vac line can cause a pain in the rectum lol..i'll try to get a hold on a manual and will pm u with it later, BTW if u have any question feels free to e-mail me @ loofeeturbo2@hotmail.com i won't be able to help u this week i'll bee out of town, but i'll try my best when i come back, or else the guys here will help u like they help me, 1 thing to remember!! never give up and u will be reward later.
*** what model is ur car and engine.. so i can get a hold on the right manual....
the crank angle sensor play a big roll however if it's not of by much..it should not effect anything..
for now!! unflood it and pull start!!! and have a extra large bottle of tylenol in hand u will need it lol just kidding.

Dyre

Rebuilds generally have very low compression until broken in, so i could be very hard to start...

The first thing to check is timing AND that the crank pulley is on CORRECTLY... Made the mistake of putting the pulley (with the timing marks) on 180* out on my friends GSL-SE.

rx racer

hey how can you tell if the main pully is on 180* the wrong way? cause we are getting fuel spark and what seeam to be good compresion. we have tryed to time it right like 3 times now but when i did install all the pullys i just kind of threw em on anyway they would fit. Is it possible that they are on 180* the wrong way?


we also tryed to push start it and it tryed to fire on time we got a nice big cloud of smoke from the exhaust but it didnt do much after that. we have looked and relooked at all the conections and vac lines but they all seam good. i have a feeling that it could be the timing/CAS wrong. would that not alow it to start at all?

boosted1205

iTrader: (9)

There is no need to install a fuel cut switch or push start and all that crap. Geesuuzz! There is no magic.
Every rebuild had start on first crank. Make sure all vacuum lines are attached and when you stab in the crank sensor make sure the gear and dot are aligned. When you stab in to the housing, make sure the leading mark is aligned with the pin, take off the black cover and make sure the gear doesn't turn too much. I use a screwdriver to stick into the gear to keep it moving. Other things could be at fault for not starting but it should start even though you have a huge vacuum leak. It'll just idle high and die out.
Did you attach the AFM plug?? A lot of people are so eager to start it that they overlook the plug since it's down and out of the way.
Things you should do before cranking:
Double check all vacuum lines
Check AFM plug (if it's unplugged it will not start at all)
Before attching UIM, jump the fuel pump and check for leaks(this also pressurizes the system)
Pull out the spark plugs and crank a couple seconds (this blows out contaminants and also lubes internals. This also doesn't foul the spark plugs on initial start)
Do the crank sensor as noted above.
The pulley installs one way only.
Following this, the car started every time on first try.

rx racer

whooooo hoooo it started baby. after taking in and out the spark plugs a million times and we found a pinched vac line it started by push starting.

its running kinda ruff but i think its cause its a new rebuild.

now the problem is there is a really anoying beeeep beeeep beeep like the door is open or somthing. or the light is on sound. i dont know what it is.
does that sound like any problems you guys have?

Dvst8

iTrader: (6)

the beeping could be some codes the engine is putting out. just make sure oil pressure, coolant, temps is working properly. I had the beeping when i put my motor in but after a few KM's the beeping went away.

White_FC

I know the beeping your talking about, it's either the power steering (5? beeps then a pause?) or the ignition system wiring could be wrong (constant beeping), this might sound silly but double check the wiring of the trailing coil pack and the tacho wire thats comes off it, this was(is ) the source of my beeping.(as well as the powersteering..)

edit: Could also be your parking brake switch thingy is stuffed/not hooked up.

FoXX

The beeping is most likely the warning for low coolant level. The air needs to be burped out of the coolant system.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

Low coolant is a LOUD annoying buzzer. It sounds like the redline buzzer but just longer and really annoying. Not a beep. Count how many beeps its giving out before the pause. It may be the power steering beep.

rx racer

its just a constant beeep beppp no pause. but yes like said before after about 50 k it went away.
very strange but it came back for a second than went away again for good it seams. ill keep ya posted
and ya for who ever cares the engin seams to be getting better by the second we let it idel alot today and drove it around the block and now it seam like it can almost start on its own. it is an s4 so it might still be a bit before we can start it without pushing it. but besides that all the intake porting i did seams to be dooing a lil bit. but you cant really tell cause we cant go over 3 grand yet.

also it got a street port but we have not yet got exhaust and intake. that will come friday. so i hope to see some good gains from stock.


and just for the record it feels really good to rebuild a rotary. i had never done anything like that before. i have donr brakes and lil **** on my car but just to jump on to this project and it work feels really good.

so for all who think they cant. If I can you can to. do it yourself,you can learn a whole hell of alot and save some cash!!!

once again thanks for all your help!