rotaryrex7

I rebuilt my 88GXL, primed the oilpump, put the plugs and injector fuse back in and went to start the engine and it caught right away. It only ran a couple of seconds then died. If I try to restart immediately it just cranks but, if I clear out the fuel by a few cranks with the injector fuse out then put it back in it will catch and run again for a few seconds if the throttle is wide open. I can do this over and over again but it won't stay running. Lots of smoke from the assembly lube.

It seems like a fuel problem or could it be the crank angle sensor? What's the best way to check for spark on all 4 plugs?

Any ideas? Thanks

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

To check for spark, I use a timing light. Your problem sounds like the fuel pump isnt staying on after the startup sequence. Make sure your AFM and your intake runner (basically the entire intake) is intact and make sure your AFM is plugged in (metallic box under the air cleaner).

Jarrett

HeffBoost

What Jrat was thinking was what I was. Fuel pump not staying on. Or what about the fuel feed/return lines being switched?

marcus219

if he rebuilt his motor I'm sure (sure hope) he knows where the AFM meter is...

hehe..j/k

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Probably true...But I have been known to have a brain fart from time to time.

Jarrett

hypntyz7

Fresh rebuilds, especially those with used rotorhousings, are often hard to start, easy to flood, and refuse to idle or run smoothly below 1500rpm for several hundred miles. I consider this normal, and after the breakin period of 1500-2000 miles the problems all but disapear. I recommend physically adjusting your idle up ahead of time on the throttle body per the stop screw adjustment on the throttle plates (front left top on an NA, rear left top on a t2). For an s4 car, I recommend a fuel cut off switch be installed for the breakin period as the car WILL flood every time it is shut down.

FWIW I start rebuilds on a weekly basis...

rotaryrex7

jrat, marcus, thanks for the suggestions. The dieing is so abrupt I think you are right that the fuel pump is turning off.

On the fuel line mix up you mention I have the more forward line going to the filter and the lower or more reaward line goin to the return, Is that correct?

Kevin, thanks as well but it is not an idle thing it just stops firing dead after it has good rpm like it's running out of fuel.

Can I jumper the afm so it doesn't shut the fuel pump down if that is the problem (I know it is connected) or would that be a bad thing to do temporarily just to diagnose.

Thanks Jim

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Use the fuel pump jumper. Its a yellow test connector by the AFM area. You put a jumper in there, and the pump will run at all times when the key is turned on.

Jarrett

rotaryrex7

Thanks guys. It was the AFM flapper which from sitting for a long time was corroded and stuck in the closed position. I broke it loose, lubed it up lightly and put it back on and it started right up and stayed running!

Question, I was idling it up to operating temp and the temp guage just kept going higher, I turned the engine off before it went above the inner H bracket. So I thought the thermostat was bad having sat a long time, when it cooled off I took the thermostat out and filled it back up with coolant mix and started it up. It climbed more slowly but was going to peg itself on H so I shut it down again. I didn't replace the water pump but it spun freely and doesn't leak. ps I have a stock fan, not electric.

How high does the temp gauge run at idle on the second gen?

Can the water pump be bad if it spins freely and does leak?

Will the engine over heat at idle if the OMP is not working?

Joonas

I would suggest putting a aftermarket temp gauge in it and see what it says. of course this wont help if it is overheating but I dont trust the stock ones at all

HeffBoost

1/4 - 1/3

I don't think so.

Just make sure the system is completely full by bleeding it good and that your clutch-fan is working good (with shroud).

Oh, and have the heater controls on full hot too when you're filling it up.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Also, if your temps are climbing, put your hand on the upper radiator hose. If its relatively cool, your water isnt exchanging. That means you have some air in the system. Did you bleed the system when you filled it?

Jarrett

hypntyz7

IF it heats up that quickly you either have a) a badly clogged radiator, b) a pisspoor fan, or c) some major problem, such as an internal coolant leak or the like.

rotaryrex7

Kevin, I'm talking about it idling for 20-30 minutes before it climbs to the top of the inner bracket.

Jim

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

my friends escort does the same thing. takes about 30 min to over heat. We know we have a tone of air in the system, sounds like you got the same problem