Rebuild starts and idles but thats about it..... need help
02-20-08, 08:09 PM
#26
Ok, so this is officially fucked up....
I got me another shift lever and went to start the car. Once I put it into gear to drive off, it was bucking. It acted exactly the same as before, where it just bounces instead of revving up when in neutral. I couldn't see anything obvious so I figured "what the hell" and plugged the TPS back in. I drove around for about 45 minutes and it ran just fine.
Damn I hate the electrical systems on this car.
Also, my oil pressure was pretty much non-existant. I have an aftermarket electrical oil pressure gauge, and it read 0 basically all the time. Occasionally at 3k it would move up to maybe 5, but thats it. Before, I had good pressure, 30 psi at 1-1.5k. I'm hoping its a loose connection, but I dunno.
Also, the oil temps seemed a little hot. It was running at about 200-210 when cruising. Is that normal?
I got me another shift lever and went to start the car. Once I put it into gear to drive off, it was bucking. It acted exactly the same as before, where it just bounces instead of revving up when in neutral. I couldn't see anything obvious so I figured "what the hell" and plugged the TPS back in. I drove around for about 45 minutes and it ran just fine.
Damn I hate the electrical systems on this car.
Also, my oil pressure was pretty much non-existant. I have an aftermarket electrical oil pressure gauge, and it read 0 basically all the time. Occasionally at 3k it would move up to maybe 5, but thats it. Before, I had good pressure, 30 psi at 1-1.5k. I'm hoping its a loose connection, but I dunno.
Also, the oil temps seemed a little hot. It was running at about 200-210 when cruising. Is that normal?
02-20-08, 08:18 PM
#27
Electrical oil pressure gauges are the devil. I usually find myself questioning the indication of even new/recent electrical OP gauges. At least verify the calibration with a mechanical gauge.
Oil temps are usually a little higher than coolant temps on the highway, yes. Coolant temps usualy drop on the highway and rise in traffic, and oil temps usually drop in traffic (with low rpms) and rise on the highway (with higher rpms). FMIC's and lack of ducting compound these problems.
It really doesnt become a problem until about 230-240, and short of spending a lot of money in intricate ducting or larger coolers there is not much you can do about it.
Oil temps are usually a little higher than coolant temps on the highway, yes. Coolant temps usualy drop on the highway and rise in traffic, and oil temps usually drop in traffic (with low rpms) and rise on the highway (with higher rpms). FMIC's and lack of ducting compound these problems.
It really doesnt become a problem until about 230-240, and short of spending a lot of money in intricate ducting or larger coolers there is not much you can do about it.
02-20-08, 08:44 PM
#28
Ok, I was just making sure that those weren't abnormally high temps, considering it is basically a stock NA engine. It actually does spike to 220+ when accelerating, and thats at part throttle and low rpm's since I'm still breaking in the engine.
Also, this is actually a fairly recently bought oil gauge. I'm gonna have to recheck the connection at the sender, and get a mechanical gauge to double check.
I'll do some more testing tomorrow since its too loud to drive at night (split air pipe is removed, and I haven't gotten a block off plate yet for the tube on the presilencer.)
Edit: People say oil prices spiked because the refinery blew up, but I think they heard another rotary was going to be on the road. lol
Also, this is actually a fairly recently bought oil gauge. I'm gonna have to recheck the connection at the sender, and get a mechanical gauge to double check.
I'll do some more testing tomorrow since its too loud to drive at night (split air pipe is removed, and I haven't gotten a block off plate yet for the tube on the presilencer.)
Edit: People say oil prices spiked because the refinery blew up, but I think they heard another rotary was going to be on the road. lol
Last edited by Sideways7; 02-20-08 at 08:55 PM.
02-21-08, 10:46 PM
#29
So apparently the wiring is screwed up on my gauges. When I first started it today, I noticed that the oil pressure was good, so I assumed the sender was on the fritz. I ended up noticing that when I turned on the lights, the gauge suddenly shot down, and the oil temp gauge suddenly shot up. So I think the dimmer wire is shorted on something. At least now I know the oil pressure is OK and I can finally drive my car without worrying about stuff.
To follow up, I have about 110 miles on the engine so far and its running quite well. It still smokes some, mainly on startup, but other than that its doing great.
To follow up, I have about 110 miles on the engine so far and its running quite well. It still smokes some, mainly on startup, but other than that its doing great.
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