ColumbusTurboTwo

iTrader: (7)

Ok guys, sorry for the 'dumb' questions.

so I took the engine apart and began putting it back together. And once you put the front housing and rotor on, you have to pull up on the - shaft and slide the center iron on.


Sounds simple but everytime I pull up on the E-shaft the rotor comes with it, when the rotor comes with it:
A) its a bitch to put back in.
B) The side seals stick to the front iron so when the rotor comes up the seals fall out.


I actually broke one of the corner seals (grrr)
I am following the Atkins DVD which puts petroleum jelly on everything, including the front iron face. Which I think is causing the side seals to stick to it.


What are your tips and secrets to getting this to work!

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

A buddy to help.

ColumbusTurboTwo

iTrader: (7)

We had two people

Houstonderk

iTrader: (3)

I would guess just wiggle and turn it all different ways, unless the rotors main bearing clearance is to tight and gets wedged on the shaft.

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Having broken some pieces and whatnot (unless you just meant a corner seal came unglued) you should first check your rotors/housings/whatever else for scratches/dents/whatever else. You need to be careful with this stuff, it won't hurt to take your time, especially with this step. By the way I was able to install the middle iron by myself, with two people it should be a breeze. My recommendation for the actual process is to do it horizontally and pull the e-shaft out just short of dropping the front Torrington bearing then carefully snake the middle iron over the shaft. When you pull the shaft just hold the rotor into the housing. Turn the shaft and housing whichever direction that gives you the most space to angle it over the difficult point.

Rxxx-7_GSL-SE

when i build a rotary i set the front iron down with the water pump studs pointing towards the floor on a dolly and build up from there.

And when i need to slide on the int plate i use a jack to hold the e-shaft up so i can put on the plate

RX7Tuner.

I use MMO instead of petroleum jelly for the face of the housing. The seals won't stick to it.

Have the buddy use one hand to hold the e shaft and the other to hold the bottom rotor in place. It's really not hard. Did you rotate the e shaft to the proper orientation before trying the slide the housing on?

Brian

ColumbusTurboTwo

iTrader: (7)

What is MMO? ....machine oil?

RX7Tuner.

Marvel Mystery Oil

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

Use TCW-3 two stroke oil as internal lube. Mazdatrix and others use it, and that's good enough for me. The reasons are fairly obvious anyway, plus it's cheap. I think my rebuild, including all the oil used on my grinding stone for seal clearancing, consumed a half quart or less of two stroke and it's fairly easy to clean up.

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

Rxxx-7_GSL-SE - Excellent idea for when no one comes and I'm yelling for help in the garage.

Rotate the e-shaft so the rear rotor journal faces the intake and exhaust ports. Push the e-shaft (let me check the FSM) up no more than 35mm (1.5") up. Use a helper or see above. Then you can tilt the center iron past the e-shaft rear rotor journal.