Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

I don't have back groujnd on them though since I had to get S4 550's since I had S5's

WAYNE88N/A

Hmmm, OK, we can assume for now the injectors are good, Cruzin did mine too & I haven't had any probs with 'em...If we zero in on the rest of the harness (connectors, wiring, grounds), though, how well can you vouch for its serviceability?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Well

When I got the harnes it had lots of broken wires.

I cut those lengths out and soldered in new runs of wire.

There's a chance the plugs themselves or the wire broke.

I'll test the lines tomorrow.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

took the UIM off.
Redid all my Vac lines.

I will admit that the Rx7store.net vac kit isn't what I expected. I would hope for something a little better for $110 This is just a hair better than the Checker/pepboys stuff.


SOOOOO........

How do I check injectors? I want to see iof my rear rotor ones are working/opening.


I'll then unplg the ECU and test for continuity through the harness.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

well some good news and bad news

I ripped the uim off and redid all my vac hoses(they were new anyway)

Then I checked voltage at the injectors. I pulled 12v through one pin (key on) and ground (key off)

The terminals were pretty bad so I cleaned them off.

I just tried to start the car and to my amazement it kicked up. It pulled -10-13 vac at 1500rpm idle.

I then set the BOV to go off so my turbo won't be so angry.

I rev'd it once after setting the BOV and it went off fine and then went back to idling(1.5k rpm). A second later it dropped idle and died off.

So I also read the fuel line pressure.

It owuld be 40psi running at 1500 rpm and when I rev'd it , it would drop a few psi.

It still doesn't soud like it's running right.

Once it cools down a bit I will check my plugs to see the status. I'm thinking a coil pack might be going bad kind of since I have replaced my plugs,wires,and checked the injectors.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

here is my ungodly hole I haven't fully enlarged yet


Before

After



Now the spark plugs after running for 10 minutes.



Notice how the rear leading is spotless.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah,
That black stuff wiped right off onto a paper towel so it was wet.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

boink.

Can anyone think of why the rear leading isn't firing?but the leading front is?

DigitalSynthesis

I had the EXACT same problem. Turned out to be the ECU had a fried rear injector driver. Dunno why the rear, but it was. Same EXACT problem, same symptoms, was a BIATCH to start, flooded, clean rear plugs, etc. So I had another ECU from my 'vert to play with ... put it in, BOOM! Different car. But the 'vert ECU was a PITA and was romping the idle up and down like the mixture was WAY off. So instead of troubleshooting the stock system which I was hating at that point anyway, I just put in a Haltech. Regardless, she's a different animal now. If you can get another ECU which was known working, try it out.

P.S. My injectors were also done by cruzin. They seem to work beautifully. I think cruzin does a good job.

DigitalSynthesis

Ooh, one more thing. Per Kevin Landers, here's a fast way to check if your injectors are working:

1. DISABLE THE SPARK any way possible, e.g. unplug the coils, whatever.

2. Pull the injector RAILS and wire the injectors into the rails so they stay put.

3. Try to start the engine. If the injectors work they'll squirt fuel out. Put a pan under them to catch the fuel so you can check each one. You'll know very quickly whether or not they are working.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

hmm rear injector thing in ECU eh?

it's either that or leading injector coil is fried.

I'll try to find a coil this weekend and then I'll try an ECU.

my time is up though.
I can't buy the fc3sd hood for another 2 months. I havw to go buy a car tomorrow.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

OK so I'm going to try and get the car started later on today. Riught now it's like 110 outside and my car is black

I borrowed a timing light. I am going to put it on each spark wire and see if I get any flashes.

I none then I found my problem. Bad coil pack.

If they all spark then ECU.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

lol I'm about to buy a 89 V6 Camaro RS lol! Damn I hate not having my car fully running.

I'm wasting 1300 on some POS with 150k while I could have bought the CF hood or exhaust or FMIC I wanted.

WAYNE88N/A

You'll nail it sooner or later- I haven't been in the loop for a while, what are all the things you've checked so far?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Hmm.
all Vac lines,injector plugs,spark plugs and wires.....

I scoped a place out with a leading coil box out of an S4 NA so I will gank it tomorrow and put it in.

If it still doesn't work then it's probably the ECU. I mean... I've gone through everything else.

I'll check those pinouts for ground and voltage tonight but it was good at the injectors so the harness is probably good.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Damn

I should have sent my extra ECU up with Chris this weekend...

Hey, whats supposed to be wrong with the red car you sold me?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Hmm If this coil doesn't work. Mind lending me an ECU for test purposes?

I saw an N332 on ebay for like $30 and N333 for $50 so far.

I'll paypal ya the shipping.

let me figure out the coils first.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

No, I dont mind lending you my ECU.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

OK some Clarification on this.
So I am checking these for 12v by grounding to the chassis an not some other reference point right?

Isn't 3C a main 12v or something? I haven't looked at the pinout chart in a while. I'll check it tonight.

Anyway. I think those pins are the ones which have green w/"insert here" color wires right?

OK so
Key on
12v on pins 3C,3E,3F, and 3H
Key off
Ground on 3A and 3G

WAYNE88N/A

Damn, hope you got an 86-88 n/a ECU, or those pin #'s might not be right...Really sorry about that...

The suspense is killing me- what ECU do you got???

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

me have N333 TII ECU.

So explain to me what I'm looking for and I'll check the pinout diagram in the FSM.

Am I looking for the power side of the 4 injectors or the ground side,etc?

Then the main grounds?

WAYNE88N/A

Whew, glad we caught that, I'd feel guilty for days if I caused somebody to fry their ECU because of something I told them to do...

OK, you're checking for 12v (about 14 if the engine's running) at the 4 injector "inputs" at the ECU. This is actually the ground side of the injector circuit, but you'll get the 12v at the ECU because it hasn't given the injectors a ground yet (that make any sense?)...

Next you're going to turn off power, and check the 2 hard grounds that plug #3 provides for the ECU. They may or may not be the same pin #'s I gave ya, you're going to have to look 'em up on the turbo wiring diagram. These grounds go to the rear rotor housing.

If all this checks out good, then your ENTIRE fuel injection circuit is good, but NOT COUNTING the ECU. You won't know if the ECU injector "drivers" are good until you get her running and check for the voltage drop (with a normal meter) or duty cycle #'s (from a meter capable of such)...

Good luck, man

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

OK so when I do this check. I shoudl just stick a pin into the sockets while it's still plugged into the ECU or can I unplg them and check(or will that create and open circuit?)

Makes sense though.

I'm almost thinking it's my leading coil since right before it crapped out fully it dropped idle. It went from idling at 1500 to 250rpm in a second for no reason.

Me thinks the front leading went out and then it was only running on trailing spark.

I'll try to get it started to check running voltages to the injectors too.

WAYNE88N/A

Yeh, leave the plugs on the ECU...

The coil's easy enough to check with a meter- done that yet?

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

nope.

I have a timing light so I'll just have a friend crank the engine while I check for light blips.