Suiicidalpenguin

More or less I am picking thewheel bearins up tommorow and was wondering if I will be in need of new wheel seals (store doesn't stock and I will order if I do) and if there anything I should know in advance as to how to go about replacing them?

Thanks

Fault Bucket

You'll need new seals, go ahead and get them. If you have access to a press it will make the job MUCH easier (in fact, I'm not sure you can replace them without a press).

A trick that I used to help press the new ones in is to use the parts from one of your old ones as supports. When you get the old ones out, disassemble them (they basically just pop apart with a little bit of effort). You'll end up with the outer sleeve and two inner races. Use the outer sleeve when pressing the bearing assembly into the hub, and use one of the inner sleeves to support the inner bearing races when joining the inner to the outer hub assembly. MAKE SURE you support the inner races when pressing the hub portions together, or you'll ruin your brand new bearing assembly.

-chris

Suiicidalpenguin

*sobs slightly* looks like its waiting a week, poor car can humm at me for another week

SpeedOfLife

iTrader: (16)

I'm getting a hum from the rear end, too. Is this typically wheel bearings wearing out or just need grease?

Suiicidalpenguin

I'm not personally sure but Autozone carries Timken for 30$ a piece (i think) so I figured I would just get new ones lol. Specially since they probly havn't been changed in 20 som-odd years.

t04tii

The rears are not greaseable because they are a sealed bearing...usually if something is making noise it would be beyond that point anyway. The fronts however are a typical tapered bearing set that can be pulled apart and cleaned then repacked with grease. So many people let these go for WAY to long and end up having to replace the bearings and races.

As for replacing the rears...yes always a good idea to replace the seal with them. When installed right and the seal does its job properly these bearings last a long time (thats why most ppl still have the stockers working ok). Without a press or a bearing puller set its very difficult to get them out, tho it can be done by heating up the hub and putting ice on the bearing then giving it some love with the good'ol pursuader (hammer). Even if using a press, its a great idea to throw the new bearings in the freezer for a few hours before installing them, makes it a breeze to put them in... hope this helps a bit.

Suiicidalpenguin

thanks for the info im gunna take it to a friends garage, or maybe even southshore bearing, and put them on with the press there. I will make sure to toss em in the freezer lol

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Hmm one or more of my wheels have been making a significant amount of noise for over a year now. Pep Boys said it was poorly mounted or low quality tires and there was nothing to worry about. It sometimes disappears during & after a hard left, but sometimes comes back or gets louder during & after turning right. I already cleaned and regreased the front bearings with no effect. My alignment used to be off but I got that fixed a while ago too. Rotating the tires a couple times since then hasn't seemed to change the results of turning right/left. The noise hasn't gotten any louder or quieter in over a year, except I tune it out now. So... nothing to worry about?

jgrts20

Yea I had that humm also a week ago, replaced the wheel bearings good as new now. No longer humms, BTW replace ur rear toe bushings when doin' the bearing job. My toe bushings ended up crumbling when tryin' to access the bearings. I replaced them with RB rear toe eliminators so my rear steer doesnt work anymore. At least its drivable now and it only cost me 48 dollars for the pair of bushings compared to 600 dollars per hub and still have ur rear steer workin'. Replacing the steel toe bushings with the poly bushings made the car a little bit lose now, thinking of gettin' a stiffer sway for the rear now.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, could I just wait for the bearings to break or will that destroy something else and/or get me into an accident?

jgrts20

I would replace them while they are still intact(if they are makin' noise). The noise gets louder and louder as time goes by, then poff you just spent twice as much cause they broke and damaged your hubs(siezed). Why pay 600 dollars per hub when theres a cheaper fix, does this make sense to you?

I paid my shop 180 bucks per side to repalce the bearings, included parts and labor + 48 dollars for the pair of R. toe bushings.

Chris

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I thought it was only $180 to replace the rear steer. Even some people that actually replaced it said it was $180. But lately I've been hearing $600. Why the discrepancy? Does that include labor or something?

Since my bearings have already lasted a year and a half, I think I'll save up for a couple months to replace both the bearings and the rear steer, then have a mechanic do it all. So I'm looking at $360 plus the cost of fixing the rear steer, as soon as I figure out how much that is.

jgrts20

Because you can only purchase the whole hub for the rear steer to work and can only get it from Mazda hence 600 bucks each + labor. The rear toe bushings you can get from Mazdatrix or RB for 48 bucks a pair, but eliminates the rear steer.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

That's what I meant, $180 from Mazda (and that's what other people who did it said). Hmm... maybe I should just go down to a Mazda dealer and check. Do you know the exact part name I should ask for?

Suiicidalpenguin

Eliminating the rear steer: How much does it affect how the car drives?

jgrts20

I called them and they said you have to buy the whole hub to replace the toe bushings(the bushings are metal and non replacable). Just ask them about the rear toe bushings. BTW Mazda faxed me the parts diagram right out of theyre catalog so they knew what I needed.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Found it:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/rear-wheel-steering-fix-538624/

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...3&postcount=10
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=11 ("Where'd you buy 'em?")
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=12 ("Mazda dealer.")

$145 per side, from Mazda. Interestingly enough, someone else who hadn't done it claimed $300 per side. So I think we're talking about a different part. Is the "arm" in "bushing and arm" the same as the hub you're talking about?

Know any good way to check the DTSS? Any way for a mechanic to check the DTSS bushing? Yeah, I know I could make a hard turn but I haven't come across a safe place to try it. Maybe I'll go hunting for large open parking lots some day.

Fault Bucket

No effect at all until you're driving pretty hard. You'd notice the difference in an auto-x or open track situation, but almost never notice it in street driving.

jgrts20

Its alittle lose in the rear but a stiffer sway will fix that!!

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Basically the rear stear improves the limits of the car's handling, unless it's broken (then it can foobar you at the car's limits). But some people don't like the "feel", or the higher cost to replace compared to eliminator bushings, or claim that an experienced driver can do as well or better w/o it. Whether you keep or eliminate rear steer, it's up to you. Either way will work just fine, it's just a matter of which option is better or better for you.

So come Monday I gotta call Mazda to see what it actually costs to keep. I don't even know if mine's broken yet, but it'd be nice to know for the future. Or perhaps to replace it ahead of time when the mechanic is working on the wheel bearings anyway.

Btw, I know I hijacked the thread, but I assume the O.P. is done. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

jgrts20

Well, Im not spending 1200+labor to keep the rear steer(maybe sometime down the road I will fix). Im moving to Cali with my wife and daughter come july 30th. I had the clutch replaced, rear bearings, and rear toe bushings done. Total spent already(getting the car ready for the move) in 1 1/2 weeks 912 dollars. So the 1200 dollars extra was definitely not needed right now. Plus at the time I just needed the car to be driveable.

Chris

ian99rt

iTrader: (7)

A really simple way to get the new bearing in is to simply stick the hubs into the oven at 400 degrees for about 10 mins. Place the bearings in the freeezer also. Between the two thermal expansion and contractions the bearings will fall in!

jgrts20

or you can just use a press, much easier I say!!