Rear Rotor Is Out, Questions About Condition Of Engine.
02-14-06, 02:40 PM
#1
Rear Rotor Is Out, Questions About Condition Of Engine.
I finally got the rear iron, housing and rotor out last night. the housing is filled with green and white jelly stuff, like the coolant coagulated. Why would this be?
Also, the rotor has a lot of thick brown buildup, like chunks I can take off, is this normal? engine has not run in years.
I also cracked a dowel pin, was super hard to come out, the other just came right out.
Thanks.
Also, the rotor has a lot of thick brown buildup, like chunks I can take off, is this normal? engine has not run in years.
I also cracked a dowel pin, was super hard to come out, the other just came right out.
Thanks.
02-14-06, 02:46 PM
#2
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
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You guessed it.
If coolant isn't changed yearly, the additive package starts to break down.
You get greasy/sludgy glop in the coolant passages.
The thick brown buildup - rust?
If coolant isn't changed yearly, the additive package starts to break down.
You get greasy/sludgy glop in the coolant passages.
The thick brown buildup - rust?
02-14-06, 02:48 PM
#3
Carter 2.0
The thick brown Buildup is Carbon that has been soaked with oil. Take it all off by taking the parts to a machine shop and having them use the parts washer........it'll save you hours.
Make sure you mark the Rotors per the Videos instructions prior to taking the Rotors apart.
Make sure you mark the Rotors per the Videos instructions prior to taking the Rotors apart.
02-14-06, 02:57 PM
#4
Originally Posted by SureShot
You guessed it.
If coolant isn't changed yearly, the additive package starts to break down.
You get greasy/sludgy glop in the coolant passages.
The thick brown buildup - rust?
If coolant isn't changed yearly, the additive package starts to break down.
You get greasy/sludgy glop in the coolant passages.
The thick brown buildup - rust?
02-14-06, 02:59 PM
#5
Originally Posted by jhammons01
The thick brown Buildup is Carbon that has been soaked with oil. Take it all off by taking the parts to a machine shop and having them use the parts washer........it'll save you hours.
Make sure you mark the Rotors per the Videos instructions prior to taking the Rotors apart.
Make sure you mark the Rotors per the Videos instructions prior to taking the Rotors apart.
02-15-06, 12:02 AM
#7
Carter 2.0
Sure, that oven doesn't come near the temperature that on operating 13b reaches.....are you kidding? If it is one of those Dishwashing machines for motor parts then your fine. Clean away. I cleaned on my housing for about an hour and a half....finally I gave up and called a machine shop. $40 bux and 2 hours later all my parts were clean enough to eat off of...........
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02-15-06, 12:09 AM
#8
Originally Posted by jhammons01
Sure, that oven doesn't come near the temperature that on operating 13b reaches.....are you kidding? If it is one of those Dishwashing machines for motor parts then your fine. Clean away. I cleaned on my housing for about an hour and a half....finally I gave up and called a machine shop. $40 bux and 2 hours later all my parts were clean enough to eat off of...........
02-15-06, 12:19 AM
#9
Carter 2.0
^^ You're lucky to have this. That Carbon is a bitch. It hides in all those grooves in your Rotors. You'll spend hours scraping it out of the grooves. Better to have that machine do most of the nasty work.
That B12 chemtool carb cleaner does wonders as well. I didn't have a big enough vat to dip a Rotor into. But if I did I would leave my rotor in there all night then swap it in the morning
That B12 chemtool carb cleaner does wonders as well. I didn't have a big enough vat to dip a Rotor into. But if I did I would leave my rotor in there all night then swap it in the morning
02-15-06, 01:46 AM
#10
Originally Posted by jhammons01
^^ You're lucky to have this. That Carbon is a bitch. It hides in all those grooves in your Rotors. You'll spend hours scraping it out of the grooves. Better to have that machine do most of the nasty work.
That B12 chemtool carb cleaner does wonders as well. I didn't have a big enough vat to dip a Rotor into. But if I did I would leave my rotor in there all night then swap it in the morning
That B12 chemtool carb cleaner does wonders as well. I didn't have a big enough vat to dip a Rotor into. But if I did I would leave my rotor in there all night then swap it in the morning
02-15-06, 06:14 AM
#11
Zep Purple will get the rotors clean like new in a couple of hours. BBBUUUUTTTT.... only use it if you plan to change the bearings. Zep Purple will ruin bearings. it will also eat aluminum (rotor housings)if left more than a couple of minutes. Don`t use the Purple on housings or irons as it will take off the chrome or nitride coatings as well. Just my $.02
Last edited by 2713ddddavid; 02-15-06 at 06:17 AM.
02-15-06, 11:47 AM
#13
Carter 2.0
just use your parts cleaner. Yes leave the bearings in the Rotors.......unless they are out of spec. If they are still in spec them leave them alone. And yes there is a seam/polish spot on all of them. That discolored area is not a worn area. Check the ID in a 8 point fashion with ID calipers and refer to the FSM for the Bearing Tolerances.
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