FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

can you get those to run the MOP or do you have to still swap to a manual one or premix?

HAILERS

You could go to pin 2H and read the voltage with the key to ON. It shouldn't be anywhere near 12vdc. It's a GREEN/YELLOW wire.

Or if you didn't want to go there, go to the GY wire on the boost sensor and see what it reads. Same wire. Or go both places.

Or depin the wire at 2H, the GY wire

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The PFC runs the OMP like stock. IN fact, it kicks *** because you can actually adjust the omp injection rate right there in the PFC (assuming you have the datalogit and laptop, some advanced functions like this are not available on the commander unit).

rx713bt

iTrader: (4)

Yes, try disconnecting the boost gauge wire at the dash. I have a S5 chassis so it might be slightly different. Or you can do what Hailers said and measure the voltages at the ECU and boost sensor.

We did get the N374 to work but we need the check engine light for the smog smog check. We swapped to N370 ECU. With the N370 ECU we are having some minor problems but it might be a bad ECU.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

I checked the pressure sensor wire.....i'm getting 9.9V i don't know what it should be
i tried disconnecting the plug but it still runs on one rotor, i also tried disconnecting the knock sensor and it was still the same

maybe i'm goin to have to completely disconnect the stock boost sensor because it would still send the 9.9v signal to the ecu

i disconnected the stock boost guage and it didn't make a differance
i checked the 2h pin the ecu is putting out 9.5 volts ...the injectors are getting 12v's
would a FCD just solve the problem?

HAILERS

Ah, ha. The nine volts is screwing you. You need to find WHAT is putting that nine volts on that line. It should be less than 3vdc. I don't have the turbo car numbers right now but I'm SURE it should be below three volts. If memory serves, anything over something like 3.65 vdc to that pin on the ECU from the boost sensor will result in fuel cut. Something other than the boost sensor output is on that line. What? Got me.

Just in case.........when you measured this voltage at 2H, you were supposed to have the plugs attached to the ECU and were supposed to back probe the plug at pin 2H. If you did it someother way, then go back and do it as I just described. Have the key to ON only.

Is the color of the wire at 2H the same color as on the boost sensor? Take a look please.

I'll get back with you later.

EDIT: It should be 3-3.6vdc with the key to just ON, engine OFF.
EDIT: It should be a green/yellow wire at the 2H and the boost sensor also.
EDIT: The deal is, the boost sensor gets a voltage input to it of a little less than 5vdc, so there's no way it should output anything close to what you saw.

I think maybe you tested it someother way??? If so, no bother. Just go back and do it like I suggested. Use one of the studs/nuts that hold the ECU bracket down to the chassis for your negative meter lead. Works good for me.

No, a FCD won't help. By the way, do you know how to depin a wire from the ECU plugs?

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i had the #2 plug disconnected and i was getting 9.5 fro the 2hpin on the ecu
i'll have to wait till the morning to try leaving it plugged in and i'll test the voltage from the boost gauge thats attached to the pressure sensor wire

i'm thinkin about buyin a eprom burner ...its only 100 bucks and get a knightsport chip and look through the programming for the original eprom that came with the motor and just keep the original tune but with the rev limiter and boost cut removed like on the knights sport epom

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOATE...2em118Q2el1247

i'm not goin for crazy hp numbers with this motor....using the originally tuned ecu with a WBo2 and SAFC2 will be fine till i get the feel for it

HAILERS

Well if I read you right, then you had the plug off the ECU and the boost sensor. You should not have read any voltage in that case. That wire must be tied to another wire somewhere.

RX713 must be right. The deal is this. The signal leaves the boost sensor and goes to the ECU. But on a Turbo car, there is a wire spliced into that signal wire and it goes to the boost gauge on a Turbo car. That spliced wire gets there thru one of the orange plugs on the EM harness that mate with the Front harness. It travels thru the Front harness and then mates with the harness that goes to the gauges. The color of the wire is the same as at the ECU/boost sensor.

That plug b/t the EM harness and the Front harness is called X-11 in the series five manual and has 20wires. Your green/yellow mates with a different color wire in the Front harness plug. It's going to be L/W or B/G. Depends.

EDIT: Well, forget the above paragraph. I forgot you have a series four and you installed a series five engine/ECU/harness and did some altenate wiring. So it's hard to figure out where the 9 vdc is coming from. I'll go out and disconnet the plug at my ECU and boost sensor and see what that wire reads on a series four turbo car. It would have that wire tied to the boost sensor but I wouldn't think there'd be an output. The signal from the boost sensor is TO the gauge, not vice versa.

Nah. A turbo series four with the boost sensor and the ECU plug off the ECU only reads a half volt on the boost sensor input wire. It's a brown/red wire on a series four and it's pin 2B on series four, unlike the series five. I must be picking up noise or backfeeding that five volts thru the gnd circuit..

Also check the color of the wire in 3Y. The color should be light green/black. Just making sure the right wire is there also. The reading of 9vdc in your post above reminds me of what you might see on a fuel injector wire at the ECU.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i was getting 9v's right from the ecu pin...the ecu is putting out 9v's....0 from the wire with it disconnected...i cut the wire that goes to the stock boost gauge right before the yellow plug so its totally disconnected

HAILERS

What is the color of the wire in the ECU plug where 2H goes?

The number on the ECU is N3????

The color or the wire at the ECU for the rear primary injector is what color?

Ahhh, never mind. You said it ran on a Non turbo ECU so the wiring must be right. I think the N374 has some outputs that are different than USA ECU's. Once upon a time there was ONE fellow who figured this thing out. If memory serves, and it does not very well. the wire for the boost sensor and another wire were in different places than on the USA. I'd need a JDM harness and a JDM ECU to figure it out. Please send uncut JDM harness and known good N374. humor. I give up.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

the wire is the GY for the 2h....i didn't touch the wiring for the injectors or anything

i'm gonna get a eprom burner....i have a stock n374 eprom, that tuned one for my motor, and i'm goin to buy the knights sport eprom...comparing all 3 bin files i should be able to make a safe tune......tune it old school lol
i wanna keep the original fuel and timing maps but disable the boost cut and rev limiter like the knights sport chip.....and i could see what changes are actually made compared to the stock tuned eprom
i'll just toy with that till i'm ready to go standalone
its only 100 bucks for the burner and it comes with 5 eproms
i could sell some custom tuned eproms when i get good enough

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

does the S4 gauge clust have the "180" screw in the back for the speedlimiter
i'm gonna check that out

HAILERS

Never looked.