10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

Ok so i need to buy a pair of these before i get my car back on the road... What is a good brand, what kind should i buy, and who should i buy it from? I have already seen the one racing beat has, and i know Mazdatrix has a few different ones.

mario1386

mmr-direct.com

R.E.wing_FC3s

i dont care for the adjusters that replace the toe control links. i like the style that bolts to the subframe and floor. such as the attain model i have.

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

^do u mind explaining why and where I can get those? I didn't realize any of
them replace the toe contol links..

Gene

iTrader: (1)

The problem with that is that it doesn't have very much adjustment capacity and it adjusts both sides simultaneously. If the car is a little tweaked like most older cars are you need the individual ones. Really to get the full adjustment range needed on a lowered car you'll need both.

lonewolfrx

supernow is pretty good.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Only caveat to this argument is for those running stiff or solid diff / subframe bushings, that center adjuster is practically useless.

Premiumriceonly

iTrader: (5)

mazdatrix

Black91n/a

Yes, but if you've got stiffer bushings in your rear control arms, then the independant camber adjuters will be nearly useless and can cause some serious binding. The same goes for stock bushings, but you might have slightly more range of adjustment. The only way to use them for much more than evening out the camber you set with the center link, is to have spherical bearings in your control arms.

rx007racer

http://www.awrracing.com/pages/rx/rxsusp.html

They sell the individual adjusters like Mazdatrix does the difference is that these ones are not greasable and the Mazdatrix ones are. Hope this helps you AWR also has lots of other Suspension pars for the FC.

VashDaStampede

iTrader: (5)

i got the mazdatrix one and it works great

championadrien

iTrader: (29)

Wait this thread lost me.

First, I dropped my car about 2" all around. As a result i had lots of negative camber.

I then bought the center bar adjuster from Racing Beat, and maxed it out. It got rid of "most" of the camber, probably still some negative left.

In order to get to truly get rid of my camber, I was planning on getting the individual camber links. This is even more crucial because I was planning to go coilovers, and go even lower, so even then I'm going to need more camber correction.

However, somewhere in between that mess, I was planning on picking up an Energy Polyurethane Suspension set.

But with what I read from this thread, Polyurethane bushings + Camber Adjusters don't work well together? Or I might get "binding?"

What exactly is binding?

Is there anything wrong with my future set up? Coilovers + Individual Camber Links + Center Arm Camber Adjuster + Polyurethane Bushings?

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Binding when the suspension arms can't move freely. If you have poly outer bushings and adjust the camber too much the outer bushings can't flex the way they need to.

Why do you want to "get rid" of your camber? How much are we talking about?

If you're using the individual links and a non-stock outer bushing you should get the outer arm spherical bushings, either from MMR or AWR. I personally like the design of the MMR ones better as they are one piece and do not require welding, and the spherical bushing itself can be easily replaced.

championadrien

iTrader: (29)

I'm assuming the car came with neutral camber off the lot so I'm just tryna return it to 0 Camber, no negative, no positive. I mean right now its close enough, to where the inside of the tires arent wearing out faster than the outside, however I know I'm going to lower the ride height more which will in turn increase the negative camber again.

At the moment I am using the center camber bar adjuster. So even if I use a combination of the center bar adjuster and the camber links, I might bind the suspension?

Also, are the MMR ones the same as the ones sold on Mazdatrix?

10thAEWHiteHeat

iTrader: (4)

hmmmm... well i also plan on doing some suspension work on my car which may lower it some from what it is right now.. what is the best long term investment for a street driven lowered car in terms of bushings and adjusters etc? I have really bad wear on my rears right now and its a stock TII suspension...

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Zero camber? Dunno how well it will handle. I run 2.5 front and 1.5 rear, but hell I only put like 40k miles on my car in 8 years of owning it, so eating up tires isn't a major concern for me :p Broken engines on the track is a whole other expense though...

Premiumriceonly

iTrader: (5)

I too was wondering about the whole binding issue

I'm lowered quite a bit and appear to be running around 2.5 degrees negative in the rear

also going to be doin either poly or Delrin all around the control arms so would the mazdatrix individuals be enough to get rid of a degree or so
I'm NOT looking to zero out
or would a center bar need to be used

and a quick summary on what the spherical bearings do?

Black91n/a

Delrin and individual adjusters is a bad idea, it won't work. Spherical bearings are like rod ends, they allow the control arm to swing, and to twist with the individual adjusters. If you plan on using individual adjusters for much more than just evening out the camber from side to side, you should plan to get these too.

Premiumriceonly

iTrader: (5)

So I would have to use the center adjuster if I wanted to use delrin bushings or do you use the spherical ones in place of the delrin?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

The spherical bushings only impact the individual adjusters.

You're kinda SOL with the center adjuster and delrin. I would possibly not run delrin on those two bushings to have the ability to use the center adjuster.

Premiumriceonly

iTrader: (5)

What would be a good setup for the rear then? I want to make it as stiff as possible hence the delrin but I do want some camber ajustability. Not a crazy amount just somethin to work with

Gene

iTrader: (1)

Of course if you get the spherical bearings you should really delete the eccentrics that adjust the toe, which means you'll want the adjustable toe links...

It never ends!

Roen

iTrader: (2)

Spherical and the individuals, and then crank the bejeezus out of the adjusters.

Then you run the risk of overstressing the adjusters and snapping the bolt on the street, like I did.

championadrien

iTrader: (29)

So Basically, just sell the car?

Haha. So if I run coilovers, polyurethane bushings, camber links, camber bar and leave camber at about 1 degree negative, will my car blow up or what?

Premiumriceonly

iTrader: (5)

this sounds like a lose-lose situation haha