really quick.. trick to removing puller on front cover?
#1
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really quick.. trick to removing puller on front cover?
ive tryin to swap my NA front cover out for a TII one, but i cant get that last piece of pulley off(its just a circular piece of steel with a big nut/bolt in the middle. i had the impact driver on the big nut and its just cranking the e-shaft (i think?) and trying to turn the wheels of the car... is there somethin special you gotta do?
#2
19mm socket with a VERY STRONG impact (my 600ftlb gun will usually not remove them). Try putting it in gear and locking the e-brake.
IF that won't work then you will need to heat it with a torch. A propane torch can sometimes work if you leave it in place for about half an hour, but a map or oxyacetylene torch is really needed. I have to heat about 2/3 of the bolts on the engines I tear apart in spite of having the strongest 1/2" impact gun I can find, being driven by 165psi of air pressure (tools are rated at 90psi, so it is probably making more torque than the rating).
IF that won't work then you will need to heat it with a torch. A propane torch can sometimes work if you leave it in place for about half an hour, but a map or oxyacetylene torch is really needed. I have to heat about 2/3 of the bolts on the engines I tear apart in spite of having the strongest 1/2" impact gun I can find, being driven by 165psi of air pressure (tools are rated at 90psi, so it is probably making more torque than the rating).
#4
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yeah ive had the impact cranking on it at 115psi for like 5 minutes and it didnt budge... started to think there was a different way to remove it, and i was messing something up hahah... but if it just needs some heavy duty cranking ill find a way to crack her lose... thanks guys.
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what me and RX7Tuner did when we removed mine was
while the engien was on the ground we strapped a wheel to the engine with a ratchet strap and stood on the wheel (for leverage not to let the engien move) then we put the braker bar on the pulley with it real cose to the ground and one of us jumped on the end of the bar while the other stood on the wheel...
it broke off with 1-2 times
while the engien was on the ground we strapped a wheel to the engine with a ratchet strap and stood on the wheel (for leverage not to let the engien move) then we put the braker bar on the pulley with it real cose to the ground and one of us jumped on the end of the bar while the other stood on the wheel...
it broke off with 1-2 times
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#11
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if hes swapping the front cover i doubt taking 4 bolts and two hoses off to remove the radiator would be too much of a problem... as far as the pulley bolt i got mine off with a walmart impact and 90 psi...
if the impact wont take it off try buying a brand name socket like snapon or matco... youd be amazed at what just a new socket will do
if the impact wont take it off try buying a brand name socket like snapon or matco... youd be amazed at what just a new socket will do
#12
As for me, used a propane torch for 2-3 minutes (maybe a bit more) then used a breaker bar with about a 3 foot extension on it. After a few good hard tugs (using my entire body) it came off.
And to the previous poster, I have heard of people that have used a 1000 ft-lb impact wrench, and it wouldn't even take it off. I have personally sheared off a Craftsman impact grade 1/2" adapter on it. Its a tough S-O-B.
#13
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sounds good guys, thanks for the input. i hadda go out to eat tonight so i didnt make any further attempts.. but ill be on it tomorrow (ive got a MAPP torch and big ole breaker bar with some piping ready...)
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#20
haha, i use a starter too...
a long breaker bar, a cheater bar, rest it against the floor, find things to jam the bar so it doesnt hit anything but the ground if it falls, and crank...
if its outside, i just tie it to any 4x4 that is in a cement or pipe or a truck, and just put a breaker bar, and a long tube and just pull on it a little...
a long breaker bar, a cheater bar, rest it against the floor, find things to jam the bar so it doesnt hit anything but the ground if it falls, and crank...
if its outside, i just tie it to any 4x4 that is in a cement or pipe or a truck, and just put a breaker bar, and a long tube and just pull on it a little...
#21
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LIke the two fellas above. Just breakover bar and socket with the breakover laying against the structure. Turn the key for a moment and the bolt for the hub comes loose.
A front hub bolt that comes off real easy suggests it was not installed right during the assy. Locktite is supposed to be used when installing it.
And use a propane torch on the bolt to break down the locktite etc if it's still giving you a hard time.
A front hub bolt that comes off real easy suggests it was not installed right during the assy. Locktite is supposed to be used when installing it.
And use a propane torch on the bolt to break down the locktite etc if it's still giving you a hard time.
#22
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ingersol rand TNT 1/2 inch impact, if that dont work i get out the 3/4 IR and comes right off, i havnt had a problem gettin them off with the 1/2 inch tho, and 125psi
#25
Couldn't this cranking method allow the thrust bearings to slip out of place? Holding the clutch down only puts pressure on the bearing. The spacer, which keeps it centered, could still slip forward. Normaly, nothing is turning, so it doesn't matter if the spacer slips forward, but if the engine is turning, the bearing could slip down from being rotated.
Oh yeah, to the OP, read this:
http://mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm
Oh yeah, to the OP, read this:
http://mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm