gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

yo,


wraping up my S5 JDM engine swap in my s4 turbo car. i'm keeping the mechanical OMP system so i had to swap the front covers and now im trying to figure out how to re time the CAS. Obviously being 20yrs+old the "paint" (according to the hayne manual) is gone so i have a mark on the pulley where the key way is. with one of the rotor's apexes facing down (6'oclock) the keyway lines up with the timing pointer. so far ive set the CAS as such.

any better ideas?

Thanks!

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

from a source I found a long time ago:
when the rotor is at TDC the keyway will be facing the exhaust and the 2 bolts that hold the centre of the pulley will be dead inline with the timing pointer which is found directly above the main pulley.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

there are 4 bolts in the main pulley... but that makes sence being that the keyway is 180degrees from the lobe on the eshaft

arad99

iTrader: (2)

The paint might be gone but the notches should still be there. The notches are located on the inner most pulley and they are about 1/2 inch apart. If you put a 19mm socket on the nut and turn it clockwise slowly, you should be able to find the marks. I've never found a pulley that hey were completely missing.

Unless I misunderstood your post.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

rust son, rust lol.

I'll check again in a hr or so when i head to the garage again.

and the pulley has been taken off and bolted back on, so i have no idea if the marks are even in the correct area anymore...

HAILERS2

http://rx7.pw.cx/guides_manuals/coll...ystifying.html

Read that at the very bottom of the page and what is highlighted in yellow. That's a way to get in the ballpark as far as TDC goes.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

thinking about the front rotor in retrospect to the rear, the method discribed would put the front at tdc and the front keyway @ dead nuts 9'oclock.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

by the way,the stock pulley's 4 bolt pattern: you can only put the Pulley on ONE specific way,as the pattern is not perfectly square.One hole is "off a bit".
The Reason for this is so you can remove the pulley and install it at the same point.so you can't make the timing marks go out say 90 degrees,as the bolt holes on the pulley won't line up to the Eshaft front.
The only way that you can Fugg up is to make the holes bigger on the pulley.so you can put it on...BUT Why would you wanna do that.RIGHT?.(do NOT do this!.Timing will be out of whack.If you use the pulley ofr timing after doing this..)

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

^ exactly. Hub goes on shaft only one way (because of keyway), Pulleys go onto hub only one way (because of the reasons styx mentioned). And rust or not, the two notches should be visible on the 'rim' closest to the timing pointer on the front cover.

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

just answered my own question

HAILERS2

If its a series four you should be able to get in the ballpark using the link I attached on my other post.

By the way, on my series four engines I have pulled the pulleys off and used my old 1982 hub/pulley to establish TDC. That '82 hub and pulley had never been seperated and fit like a glove.

I used this '82 hub/pulley to prove that my method of finding true TDC works right. That method involves filling up a rotor with oil using vinyl tubing and then rotating the engine pulley first one way then the other while watching the fluid level in the vinyl tubing. You rotate one way and watch the fluid rise up........then as the fluid in the tubing just starts going down, that is TDC.

Picture the front sparkplugs out of the engine and two vinyl tubes screwed into the sparkplug holes. The with squirt can and some two stroke oil from WalMart in it, fill the lower tube til oil starts to rise out the vinyl tube in the top sparkplug hole. Let the fluid rise up in that top tube quite a ways then stop. The fluid in both hose will settle at the same level after a moment or two. Then grab the front pulley with a hand and rotate cw slowly and watch the fluid in the tube rise up and then stop rotating when the fluid just starts to fall. Mark the pulley temp. Then repeat this process four or five time to make sure you get the same result each time. You will lose fluid going by the apex seals/wherever and have to top it off a couple of times.

Its messy but in my very humble opinion very accurate. When finished I put a '82 hub/pulley on and its TDC matched my methods TDC. I'm pleased and that's all that really counts...humor

HAILERS2

One small problem I forgot to mention. That article was written for a series FOUR engine. The series five engines ..........got their sparkplug holes moved to a different location vs series four engines. Keep that in mind for obvious reasons.

Think BALLPARK when using that method for series four or five engines.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

got it timed and it seems to run okay to good. getting a timing light to make sure on the marks.... I've got a timing light coming tomarow. I'm also using the s5 pulley and found the timing marks on it so i should be able to get it dialed in.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

As long as the pulley and hub are from the same engine, just follow the service manual procedure. Even with the paint gone, the leading mark is on the left and trailing on the right if you are looking at the pulley.

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

^isnt that the opposite? looking at the front of the motor, the trailing mark should be on the left and leading on the right

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Yes, that's correct. I reversed the two.

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

how can you tell the two different pulleys apart when they are sitting side by side. are the marks on the s5 later or earlier of that of the s4's?

Sgt.Stinkfist

iTrader: (6)

im pretty sure the s4 and s5 have the same marks, 20atdc for trailing and 5atdc for leading.... old 12a's use 20atdc for trailing and TDC for leading