re-installing injectors ...any special prepping?
#1
re-installing injectors ...any special prepping?
The injectors are out being cleaned at the moment.
So far I have replaced the fuel lines and vacuum lines. The coolant hose was severely crimped so I need to know if I can use fuel injector line, which doesn't seem to crimp, in its place?
Also, I ordered the MSD-2400 injector clips to rewire in some new clips because I snapped up a few when removing. Any special way to do this? I figure I clip off the old ones, then solder in the new ones and wrap it up with electrical tape.
Anyone use these clips on stock 87.5+ turbo injectors? ...I know that they will either fit right in or need some shaving depending on whether they are hi or lo impedence, but I don't know which half of the 87 is hi or lo. They seem to be white in color. I do know that someone on Teamfc3s suggested these MSD clips ...but for some reason I no longer have access nor can I register to ask him about them.
Oh yeah, my primary injector didn't have the spacer in it, but they didn't leak ...should I get the $6 spacer from mazdatrix anyway?
So far I have replaced the fuel lines and vacuum lines. The coolant hose was severely crimped so I need to know if I can use fuel injector line, which doesn't seem to crimp, in its place?
Also, I ordered the MSD-2400 injector clips to rewire in some new clips because I snapped up a few when removing. Any special way to do this? I figure I clip off the old ones, then solder in the new ones and wrap it up with electrical tape.
Anyone use these clips on stock 87.5+ turbo injectors? ...I know that they will either fit right in or need some shaving depending on whether they are hi or lo impedence, but I don't know which half of the 87 is hi or lo. They seem to be white in color. I do know that someone on Teamfc3s suggested these MSD clips ...but for some reason I no longer have access nor can I register to ask him about them.
Oh yeah, my primary injector didn't have the spacer in it, but they didn't leak ...should I get the $6 spacer from mazdatrix anyway?
#3
the later S4s have HI impedence injectors.
and yes, you should get a spacer.
you might also want to check your OMP lines to see if they're leaking, and/or get a new pulsation damper/banjo bolt it depending on which side of that discusion you're on
and yes, you should get a spacer.
you might also want to check your OMP lines to see if they're leaking, and/or get a new pulsation damper/banjo bolt it depending on which side of that discusion you're on
Last edited by eage8; 07-25-05 at 04:30 PM.
#4
I won't be in Tally until after the car is back together. But where in Tally are you? ...AND, want to sell me that spacer if it is in good condition? ...mazdatrix will probably take a day to process and blah blah I don't want to wait for them. You could probably slap it in a padded envelope and ship it cheaper than they would too. You have paypal?
OMP has been disabled ...new PD is $250 I think. And I don't know what putting banjo bolt in place of it would do. I think I should just leave it alone or get a RRFPR if that option is cheaper.
OMP has been disabled ...new PD is $250 I think. And I don't know what putting banjo bolt in place of it would do. I think I should just leave it alone or get a RRFPR if that option is cheaper.
Last edited by SidewaysFC; 07-27-05 at 12:55 PM.
#5
Fuel Injection hose should be fine in place of the coolant hose.
Those MSD clips should work out real nicely for the Tan-top Low Imp TII injectors (notch in the middle). Really nice clips at that too Just get the damn $6 spacer! Can't hurt to know you fixed something with not a lot of money... could it? lol
Remember to lube up the o-ring at the top of the injector with some oil before sliding them into the fuel rails.
Those MSD clips should work out real nicely for the Tan-top Low Imp TII injectors (notch in the middle). Really nice clips at that too Just get the damn $6 spacer! Can't hurt to know you fixed something with not a lot of money... could it? lol
Remember to lube up the o-ring at the top of the injector with some oil before sliding them into the fuel rails.
#6
Ok, fuel injection hose it is. Thanks.
Well, my injector colors were very faded, almost white at that. The Mazdatrix website says vin #7601 is the cut-off for hi and lo impedence. Mine is >7601 ...and according to eage8 I have HI impedence. I remember reading though that only minor (easy) modifying has to be done to adapt them to the high impedence injectors. Hopefully that is true.
Gatlin is graciously helping me on the spacer issue.
Lube up o-ring, check.
Well, my injector colors were very faded, almost white at that. The Mazdatrix website says vin #7601 is the cut-off for hi and lo impedence. Mine is >7601 ...and according to eage8 I have HI impedence. I remember reading though that only minor (easy) modifying has to be done to adapt them to the high impedence injectors. Hopefully that is true.
Gatlin is graciously helping me on the spacer issue.
Lube up o-ring, check.
#7
I was just looking at this thread, and thought I'd add my $.02.
I used fuel injection line in place of the 90 degree hose years back, thinking that it would be easier to replace the manifold if I used a slightly longer length of hose. Although it did make the job easier, the hose didn't last a year before it burst. There is a thread somewhere on this forum where this subject is discussed, and I believe I was the only one who experienced a failure with using fuel injection hose.
Regarding the pulsation damper, you should do a search ("pulsation damper" or "banjo bolt" to read up on your options. The banjo bolt mod is basically cheap fire insurance that you will want to consider.
I used fuel injection line in place of the 90 degree hose years back, thinking that it would be easier to replace the manifold if I used a slightly longer length of hose. Although it did make the job easier, the hose didn't last a year before it burst. There is a thread somewhere on this forum where this subject is discussed, and I believe I was the only one who experienced a failure with using fuel injection hose.
Regarding the pulsation damper, you should do a search ("pulsation damper" or "banjo bolt" to read up on your options. The banjo bolt mod is basically cheap fire insurance that you will want to consider.
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#9
Originally Posted by buttsjim
was just looking at this thread, and thought I'd add my $.02.
I used fuel injection line in place of the 90 degree hose years back, thinking that it would be easier to replace the manifold if I used a slightly longer length of hose. Although it did make the job easier, the hose didn't last a year before it burst. There is a thread somewhere on this forum where this subject is discussed, and I believe I was the only one who experienced a failure with using fuel injection hose.
Regarding the pulsation damper, you should do a search ("pulsation damper" or "banjo bolt" to read up on your options. The banjo bolt mod is basically cheap fire insurance that you will want to consider.
I used fuel injection line in place of the 90 degree hose years back, thinking that it would be easier to replace the manifold if I used a slightly longer length of hose. Although it did make the job easier, the hose didn't last a year before it burst. There is a thread somewhere on this forum where this subject is discussed, and I believe I was the only one who experienced a failure with using fuel injection hose.
Regarding the pulsation damper, you should do a search ("pulsation damper" or "banjo bolt" to read up on your options. The banjo bolt mod is basically cheap fire insurance that you will want to consider.
About the PD ...I'm not going to touch it. It's like any other piece of a car that can go wrong. I don't believe it is PRONE to malfunctioning though. I pop the hood enough to where I would notice a gas smell or leak. Plus, since there is no data that suggests that removing the PD doesn't cause lean or rich conditions ...I would rather not risk a lean spike. I've read that topic before though ...just like the premix topic. Too many people making good points with no conclusive evidence to back up their side.
Originally Posted by jon88se
If you're re-installing injectors, you might as well buy new injector grommets and inspect the OMP lines...they can get pretty brittle.
#10
I think the fuel line failure was a fluke, but I felt obligated to report it. Maybe I used too long a piece, and it got crimped, although I couldn't see signs of that when I replaced it. But logically, why wouldn't fuel line work? It's designed for a much higher pressure than your cooling system requires, and fuel is a lot harder on rubber products than coolant would be, so it shouldn't deteriorate. But, for some reason, mine failed.
I still have my original pulsation damper, but after reading the discussions on this forum, I've found a couple cheap PDs and banjo bolts off of ebay. I keep an eye on my PD, but don't know which fix I'll use when mine starts to leak. I want to keep the original design but, on the other hand, I'd be broken-hearted to see my engine bay in flames. I just thought you would find the discussion interesting, and the modification something to consider.
Well, this was a good post (sarcasm). Two paragraphs, and I didn't say anything conclusive.
I still have my original pulsation damper, but after reading the discussions on this forum, I've found a couple cheap PDs and banjo bolts off of ebay. I keep an eye on my PD, but don't know which fix I'll use when mine starts to leak. I want to keep the original design but, on the other hand, I'd be broken-hearted to see my engine bay in flames. I just thought you would find the discussion interesting, and the modification something to consider.
Well, this was a good post (sarcasm). Two paragraphs, and I didn't say anything conclusive.
#11
Regarding the grommet...
The air bleed sockets that are referred to in the illustration should already be in place, as I don't think you removed those. There. Now I've done something useful.
The air bleed sockets that are referred to in the illustration should already be in place, as I don't think you removed those. There. Now I've done something useful.
Last edited by buttsjim; 07-28-05 at 02:22 PM.
#12
Originally Posted by buttsjim
I think the fuel line failure was a fluke, but I felt obligated to report it. Maybe I used too long a piece, and it got crimped, although I couldn't see signs of that when I replaced it. But logically, why wouldn't fuel line work? It's designed for a much higher pressure than your cooling system requires, and fuel is a lot harder on rubber products than coolant would be, so it shouldn't deteriorate. But, for some reason, mine failed.
I still have my original pulsation damper, but after reading the discussions on this forum, I've found a couple cheap PDs and banjo bolts off of ebay. I keep an eye on my PD, but don't know which fix I'll use when mine starts to leak. I want to keep the original design but, on the other hand, I'd be broken-hearted to see my engine bay in flames. I just thought you would find the discussion interesting, and the modification something to consider.
Well, this was a good post (sarcasm). Two paragraphs, and I didn't say anything conclusive.
I still have my original pulsation damper, but after reading the discussions on this forum, I've found a couple cheap PDs and banjo bolts off of ebay. I keep an eye on my PD, but don't know which fix I'll use when mine starts to leak. I want to keep the original design but, on the other hand, I'd be broken-hearted to see my engine bay in flames. I just thought you would find the discussion interesting, and the modification something to consider.
Well, this was a good post (sarcasm). Two paragraphs, and I didn't say anything conclusive.
As for your picture ...I couldn't gather a conclusion from your post lol. Are the air bleeds and grommets the same thing?
#14
Originally Posted by SidewaysFC
As for your picture ...I couldn't gather a conclusion from your post lol. Are the air bleeds and grommets the same thing?
The grommet IS shown in the illustration. If your injectors came back from servicing with the rubber pieces attached, you should have three black rubber pieces on each injector. The grommet is the one in the middle, and acts as a seal/spacer/shock absorber that the fuel rail rests on.
I don't know why the illustration is shown sideways--it's the "official" one from the FSM.
#15
Gotcha. I didn't even look for air bleeds. But I do know they are expensive and brittle so I won't remove them from their sockets anyway. I guess I just need to play the waiting game.
My injector clips came in today. I have no idea what to do with them until I get my injectors back, or how I am gonna rewire them.
My injector clips came in today. I have no idea what to do with them until I get my injectors back, or how I am gonna rewire them.
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