ddub

So I'm looking at the instructions for this and it says that the marks are 10 degrees ATDC, 0 degrees, 10 degrees BTC and 20 degrees BTC. I don't understand why they'd do this, but maybe I'm missing something, because the stock timing marks are at 5 and 20 degrees ATDC right? So what am I supposed to do? I was thinking I could just make a mark half way in between 0 and 10 degrees ATDC and call that the Leading mark for 5 degrees ATDC since it would be half way in between this right? And then if that is lined up the trailing is too so I wouldn't have to worry about the 20 degrees ATDC mark, I can still check and make sure it is past the 10 degrees ATDC mark, though. Does this sound correct or am I missing something about these marks?

Also, when removing the main pulley there is no way to do it and put in the underdrive one without removing the e-shaft bolt right? So no matter what I'll need someone in the car with the clutch all the way in holding it down while I take the pulley off and put the new one on, correct?

Thanks for any info about this.

drago86

you dont have to loosen the e-shaft bolt for the pully,.. im curious about the timming marks as well..

ddub

You sure? I ask because it has the wood drif (sp?) key indentation in it and a lip for the bolt, so that's why I asked, seems like I'd need to but I guess I'm wrong, this is why I asked. Just wanted to make sure so I could do this on my own instead of having to get a helper to hold the clutch in for me

And yes, the timing question still stands, it just doesn't make sense to me why it wouldn't be marked like stock.

casio

you know what freakin sucks about that pulley (off topic rant) ??? okay, during engine rebuild i installed this pulley. all was well, everything back together, start it up for the first time (car was down from february 1st until early september; imagine my emotions!). well ****, my waterpump is pissing all over the place. gotta replace it. unbolt it, start pulling it off.. *clank* oh, what do we have, the RB crank pulley is _just_ big enough to block the waterpump from coming off. *sigh*
i dont know if this is common of pullies (pulleys?), but man i was not happy. i wasnt pissed, per se, but my blood pressure sure made me feel funny.

ddub

Yah that sounds like it'd be a bit frustrating

I've read that happening in a couple other threads, seems common.

ddub

Bump, any other opinions from the night crew?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

The timing marks on the pulley are at 5 and 20 degrees on pre '86 cars. '86 and on had them marked at 0 and 10 degrees. I first noticed this on my '88. When I installed the new pulley, the marks lined up perfectly. When I sold that car and installed the pulley on my 1st gen, they were off 5 degrees leading and 10 degrees trailing.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Let me tell you just one very important thing: BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN PULLING OFF THE OLD PULLEY!!! I made the mistake once of pulling off the old pulley without the clutch pushed in, etc, and the internal needle bearing dropped and it got crushed and caused the pulley to wobble!!! Let me tell you, it will **** you off more than anything!!! It requires taking off the front cover, oil pan, possibly the waterpump (sometimes), etc, just to fix it...........took me 8 hours to fix!!! Oh yeah, don't pull out that keyway that sits on the shaft either, the balancer inside will "slip", and trust me, you don't want that either, I've done that once before as well!!!! Be careful.

2Lucky2tha7

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah, try to keep the front of the car elevated too, it keeps that needle bearing from falling out of place!! I've installed 4 so far, I think the RB double sheave pulley is great!!!

ddub

No... The timing for 2nd gens is 5 and 20 degrees ATDC, check the FSM and you'll see.

ddub

Balump... Still wondering if I'm missing something about the timing marks =|

drago86

wait, does it replace the whole hub? if it replaces the whole front hub you have to undo the e-shaft bolt...

ddub

I guess so? I've never put in the RB unit, that's why I was asking the forum. But it does appear to since the woodruff key indentation is there and the lip for the e-shaft bolt.

casio

that little sorta gold-colored solid 6point bolt? yea, undid that to take my pulley off to replace the water pump. it was in the engine bay, so a wrench with length was used. not fun (btw BDC did it; thanks man!). still wasnt fun to watch. :P

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: Oops, you got me on that one! They are 15 degrees apart. They are offset by 5 degrees from the older pulleys though. If you install a newer pulley on an older car, the marks will be 5 degrees off.