rats nest removed. a couple questions.
09-07-02, 10:23 PM
#1
rats nest removed. a couple questions.
i finally got this damn rats nest out of here and got my fuel lines re routed. but i have a couple questions. what do i do about the twin scroll solenoid. i took it out, but i was thinking that this could be a bad thing.
if anyone has removed their rats nest, i could really use some details about what you did with capping things off (such as the twin scroll actuator line) and things like that. thanks guys.
if anyone has removed their rats nest, i could really use some details about what you did with capping things off (such as the twin scroll actuator line) and things like that. thanks guys.
09-08-02, 09:47 AM
#6
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
Just keep that one green solenoid. Run the vacuum to it from the front of the throttle body. The car will run without the twin scroll actuator functioning. It just won't spool quite as quick. Its not a show stopper if you have to get the car back together in a hurry.
Trending Topics
09-08-02, 11:25 AM
#8
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
For the time being, I would just remove the twin-scroll actuator and wire the door open - that will work just fine. On another weekend when you get a chance, you can pull the turbo and remove that sucker, or just wait to find an '89-91 turbo setup to upgrade to.
As far as removing the flapper door, you don't have to weld. Remove the flapper door assembly so you have the hole in the manifold. Go to the hardware store with your manifold and find a short stainless bolt that will almost thread into the hole. Buy a tap that's the size of the bolt, and tap the hole. Instlal the bolt with a lock washer and call it a day.
I did that many moons ago, and it worked GREAT - never leaked, never had a problem with it, and it didn't take any time at all to do.
Dale
As far as removing the flapper door, you don't have to weld. Remove the flapper door assembly so you have the hole in the manifold. Go to the hardware store with your manifold and find a short stainless bolt that will almost thread into the hole. Buy a tap that's the size of the bolt, and tap the hole. Instlal the bolt with a lock washer and call it a day.
I did that many moons ago, and it worked GREAT - never leaked, never had a problem with it, and it didn't take any time at all to do.
Dale
09-08-02, 12:28 PM
#9
I did pretty much the same thing as dcfc3s. Removed everything and tapped the resulting hole with a pipe tap. The hole turned out to be the right size for a 3/4 pipe tap. screwed in a stainless pipe plug and tacked it into place with the tig. You would not have to tack it though.
09-08-02, 02:27 PM
#10
well, i have the car almost back together, and i was wondering if i iwll see a performance loss form just removing the twin scroll solenoid and leaving the actuator how it is for another week til i have time to do it the right right way? (i think the solenoid was stuck anyways)
09-08-02, 02:29 PM
#11
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
If the solenoid is not connected, the actuator will be in the fully open, not blocking a darn thing mode.
Nornal car, below 2700 rpm, has the solenoid(green) energized and passing a vacuum to the switching actuator, sucking the flapper to the more restricted position. After the rpms reach 2700, the solenoid losses its ground and the vacuum is bled to the filter. The actuator goes to the full open position then.
No solenoid and no vacuum equals wide open.
Nornal car, below 2700 rpm, has the solenoid(green) energized and passing a vacuum to the switching actuator, sucking the flapper to the more restricted position. After the rpms reach 2700, the solenoid losses its ground and the vacuum is bled to the filter. The actuator goes to the full open position then.
No solenoid and no vacuum equals wide open.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FbFuninthesun
New Member RX-7 Technical
3
10-06-15 08:03 AM