like i said... i did everything right with the help from Ddub... car just wont idle for **** when its cold unless i warm it up for about 4 or 5 min with my foot around 2k rpms... when warm it runs perfect... rock solid idle at 900 and never drops off... i did reuse the old gaskets because im putting on diff manifolds (ported) in a week or two with new gaskets and the works... could that be why? also build my own EGR blockoff plate but that would affect hot or idle if it was leaking right? any help would be appreciated... also i only have 4 vaccum lines and they are in good shape it looks like so i doubt its a vac leak

christopher

 

oh ya BAC is still on there with a/c and p/s so i dont think that would be it cause the bac works all the other times when warmed up and everything on

 

Sounds like my problem. I am about 70% sure mine is from bad check valves, you dont have any left though do you?
when you did the rats nest removal did you unplug the battery? just a shot in the dark but maybe your ecu needs to see some different values and needs to be reset if you didn't do that allready... odds are you're smart enough to work on your car with the battery disconnected but you never know, mistakes can happen :-)
M
Maybe tps?

PS that girl in your avatar is cute, is she your girl?

 

hey marla man... yes i had the battery... pos and neg disconnected when i worked on the car... and yes the TPS is set to 1.0 volt on the dot... i was reading something about a bad thermosensor on the back of the waterpump and how that could be the problem... but mine is still plugged in... is there any way to check this and see if it is bad or not?.. now the car floods a bit easy when somewhat warm starting... like leaving it in the cold for about an hour

ah yes also thanks for the compliment marlaman... she is my girlfriend for about 13 months... she loved the comment

 

bump

 

do you have any engine codes showing up? I have a bad thermosenor and it throws a code. I also share the cold start issue. My remedy is to hold revs at 1500-2000 until the fan shuts off, Then blip th ethrottle a few times to clean out the junk. Then it idles fine. Only takes like 45 seconds total.

I am replacing the theromsensor soon. I will try to remember and check back to update whether it helped out or not

FWIW: I also have the 5&6 sleeves removed,no air pump etc.. also a 90'

 

it doesn't sound like a thermosensor. It will usually not run at all after 30 seconds if that is bad. Did you do the throttle body mod at the same time? If so check the tolerance on the lower throttle plate, there is a little screw with a locknut on the firewall bottom side of the TB. If that is not set right it will cause a problem exactly like you said. And you are sure the BAC is plugged in and wasn't adjusted?

 

i did the TB mod a LONG time ago.... and i screwed up the settings on the levers... i think i got them back to where they are supposed to be... but not until i did the rats nest it was never a problem... of course sometimes in REALLY cold weather i would have to baby it but not near as much as i do now... i have another TB on the way that im sure has not been touched as far as the settings so maybe that will fix the problem... i hope that is the problem then... thanks for the reply i have something to look into now

btw you say check the tolerance on the lower plate.. how do you mean check it?

 

the FSM gives measurements as to how far open it should be.