Ran water into my engine today. Will it loosen all carbon?
02-25-05, 01:31 PM
#76
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^^ Very nice Patman. You have more time than I do. The numbers I heard was 277.5 CFM at 6k rpm. And only one more point, the Aeromatic hydrocarbons have different freeze/boil points than do H2O. We all know that Air is heating as it goes in the intake, that is why we move to a cool air intake system.
"P=rhoRT bitches" HaHa I thought that was some kinda text messaging thingy. Makes me laugh now.
You have good points. I am still listening. The thing that keeps buggin' me is that I know that the parts cleaner at the machine shop is very hot water. And it did clean the housing and the Irons very fast. So my own argument is weakening. (not the physic/vaccum part) but the ability to clean. Just seems un-natural or un-holley to throw water in your motor while it is running.
Kevin Landers says he does it..........I am listening.
"P=rhoRT bitches" HaHa I thought that was some kinda text messaging thingy. Makes me laugh now.
You have good points. I am still listening. The thing that keeps buggin' me is that I know that the parts cleaner at the machine shop is very hot water. And it did clean the housing and the Irons very fast. So my own argument is weakening. (not the physic/vaccum part) but the ability to clean. Just seems un-natural or un-holley to throw water in your motor while it is running.
Kevin Landers says he does it..........I am listening.
02-25-05, 02:14 PM
#77
yeah.. lots of shops use steam cleaners to clean engine bays and stuff.
i know it sounds crazy to put water in the motor..believe me i know...killed a car one time when i drove through a flood too fast (that was i piston engine, tho). as it turns out, tho...it works fine.
personally, like i said earlier...i use carb cleaner...since it burns, and is a smaller volume, but much more effective on carbon.
pat
i know it sounds crazy to put water in the motor..believe me i know...killed a car one time when i drove through a flood too fast (that was i piston engine, tho). as it turns out, tho...it works fine.
personally, like i said earlier...i use carb cleaner...since it burns, and is a smaller volume, but much more effective on carbon.
pat
02-25-05, 02:15 PM
#78
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ya i was worried about it when i first did it but i dont think water is going to strip the oil out of the engine as much as other things like amsoil powerfoam or carb cleaner. i honestly never worried about the water cooling because the explosions its being sprayed into will warm it up.
Since you guys apparently know alot about this stuff, do you think water is the best/safest thing or could powerfoam or CC possibly work.
edit, ok i was still typing when you posted that patman
Since you guys apparently know alot about this stuff, do you think water is the best/safest thing or could powerfoam or CC possibly work.
edit, ok i was still typing when you posted that patman
02-25-05, 02:44 PM
#80
The only real worry you have here is not to use too much water at once...regulate the amount the engine consumes by clamping off the hose a bit (depends on the size of hose, too). The engine should run relatively smoothly at 3500rpm...if you have to hold it at 5 grand, you're letting in too much water.
Too much water at one time can actually bypass the sideseals and oil rings and contaminate the oil supply...which is bad. You want to let in enough to hit the hot face of the rotor and convert to steam, and that's it...not enough to be "sloshed" around by the rotor.
Too much water at one time can actually bypass the sideseals and oil rings and contaminate the oil supply...which is bad. You want to let in enough to hit the hot face of the rotor and convert to steam, and that's it...not enough to be "sloshed" around by the rotor.
02-25-05, 02:48 PM
#81
Man you "physics experts" crack me up everthing is in theory for you. I'm a backyard mechanic and learn and do things hands on. And yes water will clean up the carbon out of your motor but it is not the miracle cleaner like some would think. If your motor is worn out it's worn out pull it out and rebuild it. No amount of water is going to help it. I was taught the water trick by my highschool shop teacher who is an old Mopar guy over 15years ago. And have any of you "experts" seen the inside of an engine running water injection or water/alcohol injection pretty clean inside if I would say so myself. F___ your theories because I deal with real world problems and solutions!!! If it breaks I'll fix it and try to figure out what caused it to break and try not to do it again. To me nothing beats hands on experience.
02-25-05, 02:53 PM
#83
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
The only real worry you have here is not to use too much water at once...regulate the amount the engine consumes by clamping off the hose a bit (depends on the size of hose, too). The engine should run relatively smoothly at 3500rpm...if you have to hold it at 5 grand, you're letting in too much water.
Too much water at one time can actually bypass the sideseals and oil rings and contaminate the oil supply...which is bad. You want to let in enough to hit the hot face of the rotor and convert to steam, and that's it...not enough to be "sloshed" around by the rotor.
Too much water at one time can actually bypass the sideseals and oil rings and contaminate the oil supply...which is bad. You want to let in enough to hit the hot face of the rotor and convert to steam, and that's it...not enough to be "sloshed" around by the rotor.
02-25-05, 05:54 PM
#84
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I've been thinking about doing the H2o trick for awhile now and haven't had the chance to pull it off. I think I'm gonna try it right before my next oil change.
Is tap water going to be ok? Don't you guys worry about some of the sediments? Well... probably not since it's such a small amount.
I'm not sure exactly which vac. hoses you guys are using, but what do you think of this one?
Is tap water going to be ok? Don't you guys worry about some of the sediments? Well... probably not since it's such a small amount.
I'm not sure exactly which vac. hoses you guys are using, but what do you think of this one?
02-25-05, 06:05 PM
#85
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Tap water doesnt really matter. This isn't like coolant, where it sits in the engine for long periods of time. The water is going straight in, and straight out.
The van hose you have there is good for the trick. There is another one, on the other side, on the lower intake manifold right in the center. Its for fuel atomization, but its right next to the housings, I spose it doesn't matter wich one you use, either the one you have highleted in the pic or the other one I refered to.
The van hose you have there is good for the trick. There is another one, on the other side, on the lower intake manifold right in the center. Its for fuel atomization, but its right next to the housings, I spose it doesn't matter wich one you use, either the one you have highleted in the pic or the other one I refered to.
02-25-05, 06:12 PM
#86
For 86-88 NA engines, use the fat hose on the front of the intake, the top among 3, right below "mazda 13b injection). That hose feeds the splitter and 4 oil injectors, which are direct ports to the block and internals.
For 87-88 USDM turbo engines, use the port above the BAC valve that the "?" shaped hose feeds...pull that hose off and hook your own hose up to that port.
For 89-91 NA engines, you have to make your own tee, using 5/32" vacuum hose and a tee, and a single hose run to the jug from there...remove the pressure sensor hose, and the cap that's on the identical nipple facing rearward, tee those 2 together, and use that hose.
FOr 89-91 USDM turbo engines, use the same hose as the 87-8, except it's shaped like a stretched "U" instead of a "?"...still goes to the nipple above the BAC, which splits into both primary intake runners and goes right down into the block.
For 87-88 USDM turbo engines, use the port above the BAC valve that the "?" shaped hose feeds...pull that hose off and hook your own hose up to that port.
For 89-91 NA engines, you have to make your own tee, using 5/32" vacuum hose and a tee, and a single hose run to the jug from there...remove the pressure sensor hose, and the cap that's on the identical nipple facing rearward, tee those 2 together, and use that hose.
FOr 89-91 USDM turbo engines, use the same hose as the 87-8, except it's shaped like a stretched "U" instead of a "?"...still goes to the nipple above the BAC, which splits into both primary intake runners and goes right down into the block.
02-25-05, 07:16 PM
#87
F___ your theories because I deal with real world problems and solutions!!!
I am a backyard mechanic myself. I believe that the essence of engineering is solving problems with what's availabe, not some **** they teach you in a class. HOWEVER, I am currently in engineering school so that i can make a lot more money and get to work on cooler **** than any backyard mechanic. what you find out is that most of this stuff is bullshit, but sometimes you can actually use some of it, as shown above.
there is nothing wrong with physics and theory. sometimes its all you have, and it sure helps. in fact, im willing to bet that ol' felix used some physics and formulae when he designed these sweet wankels we're driving around. and i'm damn sure mazda did.
pat
02-25-05, 07:39 PM
#88
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Originally Posted by uRizen
I've been thinking about doing the H2o trick for awhile now and haven't had the chance to pull it off. I think I'm gonna try it right before my next oil change.
Is tap water going to be ok? Don't you guys worry about some of the sediments? Well... probably not since it's such a small amount.
I'm not sure exactly which vac. hoses you guys are using, but what do you think of this one?
Is tap water going to be ok? Don't you guys worry about some of the sediments? Well... probably not since it's such a small amount.
I'm not sure exactly which vac. hoses you guys are using, but what do you think of this one?
The circled nipple in the middle of the pic is the one that Kevin is talking about for your 7. You 'tee' into that line.
But if you're like me and you switch to premix you wind up capping that nipple and ditching that hose (along with the rest of the OMP goodies.) Do you see the two circles to the left? These are two capped nipples. Well, when you want to do the water trick, uncap them and run a vac line from each one to a 'tee,' and then run a line from there to your water source.
02-25-05, 08:19 PM
#91
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LoL....thanks.
Sometimes...seaching....just takes FOREVER to sift through to find the answer to your question that could be answered in just a few short sentences.
Sometimes...seaching....just takes FOREVER to sift through to find the answer to your question that could be answered in just a few short sentences.
02-26-05, 05:59 AM
#92
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
The only real worry you have here is not to use too much water at once...regulate the amount the engine consumes by clamping off the hose a bit (depends on the size of hose, too). The engine should run relatively smoothly at 3500rpm...if you have to hold it at 5 grand, you're letting in too much water.
Too much water at one time can actually bypass the sideseals and oil rings and contaminate the oil supply...which is bad. You want to let in enough to hit the hot face of the rotor and convert to steam, and that's it...not enough to be "sloshed" around by the rotor.
Too much water at one time can actually bypass the sideseals and oil rings and contaminate the oil supply...which is bad. You want to let in enough to hit the hot face of the rotor and convert to steam, and that's it...not enough to be "sloshed" around by the rotor.
Ok np
02-26-05, 02:29 PM
#94
Carter 2.0
Originally Posted by 13btnos
Man you "physics experts" crack me up everthing is in theory for you. I'm a backyard mechanic and learn and do things hands on. ............... F___ your theories because I deal with real world problems and solutions!!! If it breaks I'll fix it and try to figure out what caused it to break and try not to do it again. To me nothing beats hands on experience.
All these theories in physics and engineering are based on facts that we have learned (dare I say?) in school.......hands on. (you yourself say that you learned this water thing from a "teacher" Your school is ok, my school is bullshit???) Only, we didn't stop working on Motors, we have expanded our core copetencies to include as much as We can handle.
Last edited by jhammons01; 02-26-05 at 02:32 PM.
02-26-05, 03:44 PM
#96
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Originally Posted by jhammons01
I am not going to say your full of ****, but you do need as much education as you can handle. It can only help you. I myself 'worked' my way through college as Class B Millright in a Sawmill in Texas. And I have always been a backyard Mechanic. I have pulled more dead, forgotten, discarded cars out of the woods than I care to list right now.....and brought them back from the dead..... in my backyard.
All these theories in physics and engineering are based on facts that we have learned (dare I say?) in school.......hands on. (you yourself say that you learned this water thing from a "teacher" Your school is ok, my school is bullshit???) Only, we didn't stop working on Motors, we have expanded our core copetencies to include as much as We can handle.
All these theories in physics and engineering are based on facts that we have learned (dare I say?) in school.......hands on. (you yourself say that you learned this water thing from a "teacher" Your school is ok, my school is bullshit???) Only, we didn't stop working on Motors, we have expanded our core copetencies to include as much as We can handle.
So he is a physics Expert, But works on cars in the back yard? Somthing does not sound right.. ( back yard mechanic) like me but i dont know much about Physics. I just take things apart and put them back together.
02-26-05, 08:17 PM
#97
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Originally Posted by Adam
So he is a physics Expert, But works on cars in the back yard? Somthing does not sound right.. ( back yard mechanic) like me but i dont know much about Physics. I just take things apart and put them back together.
Hmmm, aren't we stereotyping? I do all of my own maintenance and am what you'd call a shade tree mechanic and have a BS in Engineering, a Master's in Business, working on a doctorate and was a: helicopter pilot, military test pilot, program manager etc...etc..
Gotta go, need to do my 10,000 mile oil change on my TDI.
02-26-05, 08:38 PM
#98
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Originally Posted by homebrewer
Hmmm, aren't we stereotyping? I do all of my own maintenance and am what you'd call a shade tree mechanic and have a BS in Engineering, a Master's in Business, working on a doctorate and was a: helicopter pilot, military test pilot, program manager etc...etc..
Gotta go, need to do my 10,000 mile oil change on my TDI.
Gotta go, need to do my 10,000 mile oil change on my TDI.
some people have a BS is bullshitting too..
02-26-05, 08:52 PM
#99
dude...why do you think that just because we know about physics and engineering that we cant still be mechanics? what sense does that make? i have a few engineering professors that work on **** in their garages just like you or me, and they know all kinds of formulas and stuff.
pat
pat
02-26-05, 08:57 PM
#100
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Originally Posted by patman
dude...why do you think that just because we know about physics and engineering that we cant still be mechanics? what sense does that make? i have a few engineering professors that work on **** in their garages just like you or me, and they know all kinds of formulas and stuff.
pat
pat
They're all faking it.
