ram air anyone?
#3
earning these was better
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Originally posted by darkwaveboi
is it just me, or does the rx7 community not really care about cold air intakes and ram air kits..?
is it just me, or does the rx7 community not really care about cold air intakes and ram air kits..?
#5
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The best cold air intake i have seen for an NA is the one that Checkpoint makes here in sacramento. It uses large diameter piping and mandrel bends. The filter is a real K&N and it sits in the front grille. There is a "spray shield" included to keep bugs and junk from gumming up the filter. An '89 NA put the Checkpoint Intake, Racing Beat headers, HKS catback, and Turbo 2 fuel pump on, and his car felt just like a stock '89 turbo 2. Best intake ive seen (its made like the AEM ones you see on honduhs).
Graham
Graham
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#8
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hey, i read earlier about how cutting the wall between the headlight and filter was stupid.
is that true? i mean, if you cut enough of an area out to attach the filter under the stock lights, than you'd have a true cold air intake. for fREE! haha
is that true? i mean, if you cut enough of an area out to attach the filter under the stock lights, than you'd have a true cold air intake. for fREE! haha
#11
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i posted a while back with a post saying i lowered my intakes temp by half... lately when i was on a drive for an hours an a half.. its was sooo hot outside and my car ran soo cold it went back into the warm up cycle! beat that
#12
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real ram air setups make actuall posotive pressure. None of those setups are really ram airs. Efficient and worthwhile yes but not ram airs. I hate to use it for comparison but thise style intakes are all over for Civics but none are referred t as ram airs. I have read that for avery 11 degrees farenheit dropped from the intake temp you are rewarded with a 1% HP increase! Do the math!! I made a carbon fiber cold air box with a dryer duct feeding it cold air in my T2, works well, and I feel it was very worthwhile.
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Running the ENGINE too cold is more of a problem than running the INTAKE too cold. In order to increase air density enough to cause detonation, you will have to cool the intake charge well below freezing.
#16
oodle the noodle
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i actually just bid on a set of (i know z3 fenders are gay) z3 inserts, and i was going to put them into my hood......after that, i might as well make them functional by ducting them to my intake so, i also am working on a ram air type of deal....(i know get a TII hood, but i want my rx to be a little unique)
#18
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by Fatty_FC3S
The best cold air intake i have seen for an NA is the one that Checkpoint makes here in sacramento. It uses large diameter piping and mandrel bends. The filter is a real K&N and it sits in the front grille. There is a "spray shield" included to keep bugs and junk from gumming up the filter. An '89 NA put the Checkpoint Intake, Racing Beat headers, HKS catback, and Turbo 2 fuel pump on, and his car felt just like a stock '89 turbo 2. Best intake ive seen (its made like the AEM ones you see on honduhs).
Graham
The best cold air intake i have seen for an NA is the one that Checkpoint makes here in sacramento. It uses large diameter piping and mandrel bends. The filter is a real K&N and it sits in the front grille. There is a "spray shield" included to keep bugs and junk from gumming up the filter. An '89 NA put the Checkpoint Intake, Racing Beat headers, HKS catback, and Turbo 2 fuel pump on, and his car felt just like a stock '89 turbo 2. Best intake ive seen (its made like the AEM ones you see on honduhs).
Graham
I'm also always skeptical of "felt as fast" reports. I've raced cars that "felt like" 12 second cars, but actually turned out to be more like 17 second cars. If you didn't run it down the track or on the dyno, there is no valid comparison.
About december area, I am going to be making a ram air kit for my RX-7. It will attach to the stock hood scoop, and feed air to a cold air box by the air flow meter. If their is interest in a kit like this, I could manufacture one.
One of the first things I am looking into is a inlet pipe for NA RX-7's, perhaps made out of Carbon fiber. Other than airflow and cool looks, I would also include a sealable zip-up sleeve that could be filled with ice or dry ice and left prior to a drag race.
I have a few other ideas as well that I will be introducing about the december area, when production gets under way.
If their are any products you are particularly interested in seeing in being produced, I will look into having them made. Just brainstorm here.
Sean Cathcart
#19
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by bcty
i posted a while back with a post saying i lowered my intakes temp by half... lately when i was on a drive for an hours an a half.. its was sooo hot outside and my car ran soo cold it went back into the warm up cycle! beat that
i posted a while back with a post saying i lowered my intakes temp by half... lately when i was on a drive for an hours an a half.. its was sooo hot outside and my car ran soo cold it went back into the warm up cycle! beat that
Regardless, I doubt that an air temp change would lower your engine temps enough to put the car back into the warm-up cycle. Even in -20 Celsius weather, after hours of driving, the cold air is not enough to cool the engine significantly enough to put the car into warm up mode.
My guess is a mechanical failure of one of your parts, either a sensor, or stuck TB plates (inducing a higher than normal idle). If not, than this I have to see, and you can show me!
Sean Cathcart
#21
SOLD THE RX-7!
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I will have a VERY nice one in 1-2 months just finishing up the planing stages
but for now I'm stuck will this (no cutting!!)
but for now I'm stuck will this (no cutting!!)
Last edited by Scott 89t2; 07-07-02 at 12:45 AM.
#22
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Yo Sean, where you been hiding?
Yes the NA's do have an air temp sensor, it's on the opposite side of the plenum to the runners, towards the rear.
There's absolutely no way a cold air intake can cause an engine to run too cold or go into it's warm-up cycle. A 100% perfect cold air intake would only be pulling in ambient temp air anyway. "Cold air" is a misleading term; "colder-than-the-engine-bay air" would be more accurate!
Ram air is another term often misused. For an intake to be truely "rammed", a decent sized scoop must face directly into the airstream, and the entire system must be sealed so that the additional pressure is contained. This means using an airbox, not a pod filter. Since I've yet to see a single car here that still uses an airbox (other than the restrictive stock one), no one here really has a ram air intake.
But a duct of at least 3" diameter pulling air from the front of the car and directing air to a pod filter cut off from the engine bay by a shield is an excellent idea, as the more ambient temp air the filter inhales, the more power the engine will make. The lower temp of the air will be detected by the air temp sensor in the airflow meter and the ECU will then calculate the higher mass of the colder air. More air mass means more fuel injected and more power.
As an example, 20degC (68degF) outside air is 9% denser than 40degC (104degF) engine bay air. That means 9% more oxygen entering the engine. You do the math...
Yes the NA's do have an air temp sensor, it's on the opposite side of the plenum to the runners, towards the rear.
There's absolutely no way a cold air intake can cause an engine to run too cold or go into it's warm-up cycle. A 100% perfect cold air intake would only be pulling in ambient temp air anyway. "Cold air" is a misleading term; "colder-than-the-engine-bay air" would be more accurate!
Ram air is another term often misused. For an intake to be truely "rammed", a decent sized scoop must face directly into the airstream, and the entire system must be sealed so that the additional pressure is contained. This means using an airbox, not a pod filter. Since I've yet to see a single car here that still uses an airbox (other than the restrictive stock one), no one here really has a ram air intake.
But a duct of at least 3" diameter pulling air from the front of the car and directing air to a pod filter cut off from the engine bay by a shield is an excellent idea, as the more ambient temp air the filter inhales, the more power the engine will make. The lower temp of the air will be detected by the air temp sensor in the airflow meter and the ECU will then calculate the higher mass of the colder air. More air mass means more fuel injected and more power.
As an example, 20degC (68degF) outside air is 9% denser than 40degC (104degF) engine bay air. That means 9% more oxygen entering the engine. You do the math...
#24
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Originally posted by darkwaveboi
is it just me, or does the rx7 community not really care about cold air intakes and ram air kits..?
is it just me, or does the rx7 community not really care about cold air intakes and ram air kits..?
Originally posted by boostmotorsport
real ram air setups make actuall posotive pressure. None of those setups are really ram airs.
real ram air setups make actuall posotive pressure. None of those setups are really ram airs.
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Ram air is another term often misused. For an intake to be truely "rammed", a decent sized scoop must face directly into the airstream, and the entire system must be sealed so that the additional pressure is contained. This means using an airbox, not a pod filter.
Ram air is another term often misused. For an intake to be truely "rammed", a decent sized scoop must face directly into the airstream, and the entire system must be sealed so that the additional pressure is contained. This means using an airbox, not a pod filter.
Originally posted by NZConvertible
As an example, 20degC (68degF) outside air is 9% denser than 40degC (104degF) engine bay air. That means 9% more oxygen entering the engine. You do the math...
As an example, 20degC (68degF) outside air is 9% denser than 40degC (104degF) engine bay air. That means 9% more oxygen entering the engine. You do the math...
#25
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Originally posted by Evil Aviator
How do you get 9%? Are you factoring in humidity?
How do you get 9%? Are you factoring in humidity?
No, I just found a graph on the net of air density vs. air temp that showed ~1.2kg/m³ @ 20ºC and ~1.1kg/m³ @ 40ºC; about a 9% difference. But now I’m looking at a proper psychrometric chart, just to make you happy! The above figures relate to about 20% relative humidity, witch is a bit low.
Assuming 20ºC air with 60% RH, heating this to 40ºC (typical underbonnet temp) drops density from 1.19kg/m³ to 1.11 kg/m³, a drop of 6.7%. So it’s still a significant difference.
Happy now?!