Radio Relocation
#1
Radio Relocation
i have aan fc and my plans are to use my radio din for gauges. i also want to keep my radio and was thinking about moving it to the glove box. Has any one in the forum prefected this? or attempted it? any help would be appreciated
pillar pods are not part of my plan goal is to keep gauges discret
pillar pods are not part of my plan goal is to keep gauges discret
#2
I haven't seen anyone do it. It seems pretty straight forward though. You need to make an enclosure to hold the deck and fit it into the glovebox. Then cut a hole in the back of the glovebox to route wires.
#3
Ive seen it done on a 240sx, was pretty clean he just used some L brackets I think and had it inside the glove box so he could hide it. Not sure i would do it though since i like controlling my stuff. But it is do-able.
#4
why not do the reverse and put the gauges in the glove so it appears stock and doesnt attract any cops or thieves.... just a thought.... not saying its a bad idea or anything =]
#5
In fact, I found the stereo bin to be out of my sightline and not a very good place for critical info display.
#7
This is actually quite easy to look at while driving. It's not hard to take a quick glance down, much like you normally do while driving. The red rectangle is an NGK Powerdex wideband display. While looking over at the boost, you can see exactly what the AFR is at the same time. A quick glance up and you have an instant snapshot of RPM too.
But moving the radio to the glovebox shouldn't be that hard. Or, if you have a coupe, you can put it in the storage bin if the glovebox proves to be too shallow. Remember, right behind the glovebox is the HVAC unit, so you may not be able to cut into it too much. Give it a shot. Extending wires isn't hard at all. Parts stores even sell antenna wire extensions.
But moving the radio to the glovebox shouldn't be that hard. Or, if you have a coupe, you can put it in the storage bin if the glovebox proves to be too shallow. Remember, right behind the glovebox is the HVAC unit, so you may not be able to cut into it too much. Give it a shot. Extending wires isn't hard at all. Parts stores even sell antenna wire extensions.
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#9
Put your gauges where the warning light cluster is, in the middle on top of the dash, then put your warning light cluster (idiot cluster) down with the stereo. There's a writeup somewhere, but last I saw it was on AZRotary and my old bookmark for it is no longer valid.
#12
Driving RX7's since 1979
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From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Somewhere in my garage I've got an old Sony unit where the brain is a remote mount, so you could put the faceplate in your center console. Would be perfect for what you want to do.
Just need to know where I put it and see if it will power up.
Just need to know where I put it and see if it will power up.
#13
Put your gauges where the warning light cluster is, in the middle on top of the dash, then put your warning light cluster (idiot cluster) down with the stereo. There's a writeup somewhere, but last I saw it was on AZRotary and my old bookmark for it is no longer valid.
i want to go for a diffrent setup instead of having them where the warning light are or the a pillar or even the glove ............ I will have them in an angled three gauge dash pod behind a tinted piece of plexi glass im not to worried about them being stolen or visability besides i think having the radio there is more of a distraction ( changing stations etc.) *** soo as i have it mounted ill post some pics
#15
any pics of different gauges setups and radio reloction ?
#16
On the road, the moments at which you'll want to know more than any other time how much boost you're running is when you should have your eyes on the road. Having the gauges in your peripheral vision is best. That being said, I have my boost gauge right under my stereo because it was simplest to do so. I actually don't view the gauge a lot unless I'm making adjustments, I know my car pretty well and can usually either infer or feel when it's not doing something right with regard to boost, so it hasn't caused me any trouble being down there.
#17
Seriosuly... if your car is that bad off to where you have to watch boost every time you drive, then you need to spend more time in the garage getting that overboost condition fixed.
Not flaming you, or anyone else, it's just that this whole forum seems to think that I'm doing something that's going to kill me by choosing a different place for a boost gage.
#18
Not to bash you or anything Agreen but I find it funny that you have the gauge in the radio din and a picture of a car running up a tree lol
I agree that if you need to constantly look at your boost gauge for spikes, fixing the spikes should be priority.
I got my boost and A/F lcd screen in the center console vents
#19
For one thing, you are presumably stationary while at work, without objects hurling at you at 60+ MPH.
Looking down at your knee mounted gauge can't put you in the grill of a Volvo 18-wheeler.
This is just an assumption on my part, if wrong, please correct me and kudos on having a more interesting job than most.
At any rate, with the wastegate ported out, it doesn't make anything over stock boost, so it's essentially there for the very rare occasion that I actually do need to see it. Just because it's different doesn't mean it's wrong. I don't have to be like everyone else and throw them up on an A-pillar with cascading gages on one side with a fire extinguisher on the other, tribal flame floormats and a bumper sticker that says "cowboy butts drive me nuts", just to cap off how gay my car looks.
Seriosuly... if your car is that bad off to where you have to watch boost every time you drive, then you need to spend more time in the garage getting that overboost condition fixed.
Not flaming you, or anyone else, it's just that this whole forum seems to think that I'm doing something that's going to kill me by choosing a different place for a boost gage.
Seriosuly... if your car is that bad off to where you have to watch boost every time you drive, then you need to spend more time in the garage getting that overboost condition fixed.
Not flaming you, or anyone else, it's just that this whole forum seems to think that I'm doing something that's going to kill me by choosing a different place for a boost gage.
I first placed my gauges just where you propose and found it required more conscious effort to monitor them than I wanted.
Now they're in the warning cluster location which is better but not ideal.
I've come to the decision that the stock gauge cluster is the best spot for "fast/critical" gauges (oil pressure, water temp primarily), the slow "information" gauges like fuel level or volts can go anywhere (I'm NA and need no stinkin boost gauge).
Seems to me that the boost gauge would fall under the "fast/critical" category and installing it anywhere but in direct line of sight is just as ricey as the flame floor mats you mentioned.
#20
Naah... I see a boost gage about as critical as a voltmeter really. Like I said, if the car's overboosting (or not boosting), it's got a problem anyways, which you'll know about by the way the car drives. It's only there, for me at least, whenever I do any real modifications to the car that will affect the tune. I honestly never need to look at it while driving. It's kind of counter-productive to stare at the boost gage while driving. I mean, do people watch it and go "wow! It got all the way up to 7psi... again"
Yeah, you're right, though. I may not have objects being hurled at me, but in my line of work glancing at that gage 6ft away can be the difference between safe operation, and a reactor accident.
Whatever, this is all a big de-rail anyways. BACK ON TOPIC!!
Yeah, you're right, though. I may not have objects being hurled at me, but in my line of work glancing at that gage 6ft away can be the difference between safe operation, and a reactor accident.
Whatever, this is all a big de-rail anyways. BACK ON TOPIC!!
#22
I'm trying to eliminate the head unit altogether and using just an Ipod or Zune wired directly to and an amp using an interface. I don't listen to CDs and I don't listen to the radio. Everything I need is in my ZUNE. Here is the link to the interface I'm using. http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundzncblpak.html
I'm not running a huge system just small speakers and the smallest possible amp I can fine. If I can run everything right from my ZUNE...Why not?
I'm not running a huge system just small speakers and the smallest possible amp I can fine. If I can run everything right from my ZUNE...Why not?
#23
I googled radio relocation. Alot of it came up for Evo's, apparently AMS makes a relocation kit for them, but it's pretty much specific to lancers. I found this one on some civic forum that was sort of helpful. It seems as if you have any extra space anywhere, it's possible. Just get a piece of aluminum plate and cut a hole for the radio, and cut the plate to fit flush with the glovebox. I guess you could use wood and cover it with that carbon fiber sticker B.S. if you suck at cutting metal. Mount the plate in the glovebox with some angle brackets and screws, mount the radio bracket to the plate, and shove the radio in the hole. Then all you have to do is extend the harness wires and antenna wires. Done!
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/7-...elocation.html
This is that link. He said HE did it because people were stealing radios. Then he did a crappy photoshop of some gages where his radio was.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/7-...elocation.html
This is that link. He said HE did it because people were stealing radios. Then he did a crappy photoshop of some gages where his radio was.
#24
I'm trying to eliminate the head unit altogether and using just an Ipod or Zune wired directly to and an amp using an interface. I don't listen to CDs and I don't listen to the radio. Everything I need is in my ZUNE. Here is the link to the interface I'm using. http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundzncblpak.html
I'm not running a huge system just small speakers and the smallest possible amp I can fine. If I can run everything right from my ZUNE...Why not?
I'm not running a huge system just small speakers and the smallest possible amp I can fine. If I can run everything right from my ZUNE...Why not?
#25
I'm trying to eliminate the head unit altogether and using just an Ipod or Zune wired directly to and an amp using an interface. I don't listen to CDs and I don't listen to the radio. Everything I need is in my ZUNE. Here is the link to the interface I'm using. http://www.logjamelectronics.com/soundzncblpak.html
I'm not running a huge system just small speakers and the smallest possible amp I can fine. If I can run everything right from my ZUNE...Why not?
I'm not running a huge system just small speakers and the smallest possible amp I can fine. If I can run everything right from my ZUNE...Why not?
I run a 100watt amp put it in the bin behind the driver seat. Ran a toggle switch (I couldve run from the ignition source but I rather have it on a switch), rca cables, 3.5mm adapter, and my phone adapter since I use my G1 as my mp3 player. I can also use anything that has a 3.5mm output. Also, yay for streaming radio
its funny playing **** blasting it and driving through the city hahaha