TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

hey guys well im gonna be tearing down the whole motor on my car tmw and i have a few questions the car has some weird issues heres the case theres times that you start up the car and punch it car moves pushes 11psi and holds it all the way threw and theres time the car doesnt feel like moving hits 7 psi and and i get beat by civics =/ neways just wondering could the turbo be going bad???? how can i check it once i take it out tmw??? any ideas???? im gonna be routing new vaccum lines and removing emissions so once i do all that i should be good also does anyone have a vacuum diagram for an 87 TurboII with no emmisions??? ill see how everything comes up tommorow and ill give you guys an update
Thanks
TwEaK

P.S something i forgot after driving my car decently hard (hitting the brakes pretty hard) the pedal goes to the floor and i have like no brakes any ideas????

Boostmaniac

The brakes are fading due to air bubbles in the line and possibly a leak some where. Bleed your brake system properly and replace with the best brake fluid you can find.

What kind of Civic is beating you when you are pushing 7 psi? That is still more boost than stock and you should still be hauling *** on Civics.

Check the turbo for any shaftplay to get an idea of what kind of shape the turbo is in.

idsigloo

Once you remove emissions and route those new, im hoping silicon, vacuum lines see if the problem exists still with you boost. Also, how are you getting this 11psi or 7psi reading? Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? Also, check for shaft play on your turbo and see if you have alot of movement. If all you can get those wheels to do is spin then your in good shape. The main things you'll need to have vacuumed are the oil injectors (if you still have them), BPAV, Map sensor, FPR. Probably want to replace the vacuum lines on the turbo going to the wastegate actuator as they might be old and hard/brittle.

I'd look into replacing your old worn out brake lines with stainless steel. The stock rubber lines buldge out creating a mush feeling when hitting the brakes where the stainless steel keeps it nice and tight.

SureShot

First fix the brakes.
The master cylinder could be worn out.

Then look at this:

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

ok i have an autometer pro comp boost/vacuum gauge when the car runs hard spikes 11 and holds it but then theres time the car runs like **** and boost 7 psi now i heard that the turbo should spin freely??? well when i try to turn mine by hand using my thumb and index finger as soon as i let it go it stops like it doesnt really spin freely???? my dad has a cummins4bt motor in his landcruiser i took the intake off to see how his turbo spins and his spins nice and smooth while mine is kinda rough???

ill try and see if i can take some pics as soon as i have the chance... shureshot by the pics you posted the switching actuator on my car it looks like i have 2 of them???? can i remove one??

Thanks
TwEaK

Blackbob

That guage = the garbage

From the sound of it sounds like your turbo has seen better days like 1000X's over. I would suggest since your going with a new motor. It wouldn't hurt to pick up a T/T4 hybrid in deccent shape off ebay or something. Don't get me wrong your turbo isn't going to spin for days on in but it should go for long then 2 or three seconds before she stops. You can get a rebuilt kit for fairly cheap(usually around 100-150) my suggestion is to upgrade to a slightly bigger one off another car.

idsigloo

Get yourself a nice electronic greddy or defi gauge.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

More important than how long the turbine spins when you flick it (REAL scientific way of determination) is the shaft play.

Just grab the end of the turbineand pull/push in and out. And as far as shaft play is concerned - there should be none (ideally) but if it is minimal and the turbo isn't blowing oil into the intake, then your good to go for a while.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

List your mods.

I would not recommend going near 11psi on stock injectors unless you've had them professionally cleaned and know they are performing at their real rate.

I limit mine to 10psi. I've hit 11-15 psi before but I don't want to hold it there for long.

Are you running a boost controller or are you using the boost creep to your advantage(could be answer for random psi readings).

As for the brake problem. Do not forget to verify the one way check valve on your brake booster line is functioning right and is in the right direction.

Boost inside the brake booster(should always stay vac) is a bad thing.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

kk list of mods are

Walbro255lph
Turbonetics mbc
Banzai racing intake
autometers boost/vacuum and afr gauge
2 1/2 exhaust from downpipe back with magnaflow mufflers and dual forza tuning exhaust

ive watched my afr gauge at wot while hitting 11 psi and im still in the rich state

any other ideas???
Thanks a ton
TwEaK

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

only reason i cant upgrade is my father told me he doesnt mind me purchasing the car (having a record of street racing already) as long as i dont mod it the only things that ive done to the car is because my exhaust was all rusted and my intake was broken thats why i just replaced it with aftermarket and the original fuel pump went out so i decided to go with a walbro255

TwEaK

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

The AFR thing is narrowband only and not useful really. Wideband gives you definite numbers to know how close to a rebuild you really are.

Now you have to determine why your car is boosting different numbers.

Ambient temps and heat soak are factors which can vary your boost.

I know here in 100+degree weather hitting 10psi can be a bit of a struggle.

If that isn't the culprit(you got 7 or 10psi in the same enviroments/temps) then look else where.

How old is your turbo? It been rebuilt yet?

Ignition? Maybe your not getting enough spark to maintain 10psi.



Here is what I recommend.
-Fuel pump upgrade. (Already done but did you do the rewire as well?)
-Replace fuel filter
-Replace spark plugs and wires
-Rebuild the turbo(send it out for 200-300 price range)
-Port your wastegate if you haven't done so(Boost creep is bad no matter what. It's unpredictable/controllable boost).
-Clean your injectors
-Fuel pressure gauge(great for making sure your pumping the right psi and troubleshooting)

If your pulling the engine apart I'd recommend a rats nest removal as well.
New Vac lines will help rid possible culprits to vac leaks and stuff.
Hose Technique brand are great. DO NOT get the Checker colored silicone hose. That stuff does not hold up to pressure or heat at all(from personal experience with that ****).


Then upgrades.
Rtek 1.7 and 720's would make it safe for you to run 11-13psi.
FMIC to keep the boost charge cold.

You could put a spin on the rtek and FMIC as reliability parts. hehehe
They do make your car more stable/constant

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Oh.

here is my vac rack diagram.
It's my own one so there may be things you still want. Just compare it to the stock FSM diagram(like the twin scroll or ditching the FPR solenoid)

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

here is what ive done so far

Fuel pump (has not yet been rewired)
spark plugs bur9eq all around
wires
fuel filter replaced less than 3000 miles ago

rats nest has just been pulled out waiting to get my block off plates in then i can start routing the vac lines after that i can bolt everything up

i dont think the turbo was ever rebuilt im still running on the 100% original motor which theres about 120k on it as we speak i honestly think its the turbo but who knows?
Thanks
TwEaK

Blackbob

I'd say at 120K it MIGHT be time for a new turbo as well considering you do have a car from the turbo 80's(by that I mean any car that was originally created and sold in the mid to late 80's to early 90's). Just like my Z(also turbo) you don't know how well the originally owners took care of the car or how many ricky racers had it in between that time. Just think of all the times your rotary might have had oil treatment and stop smoke ran though there...lol...makes you wanna cry doesn't it ? So you wanna rebuild that turbo while your out atleast I would. Remember you have a rotary man you can mod the hell out of it without dad or anyone else really noticing(unless he's familier with 7's). I see that you're oin miami I have some buddies down there that might be able to help you out.

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

my dads familiar with 7's trust me lol hes building his car is a 94 silver fd 3 rotor with a gt-78 turbo i think it is not shure i have pics but right now to lazy to post well see plans for tmw are yank out the tranny and finish unbolting the turbo and lim ill give you guys a headsup and see what happens...
TwEaK

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

one other thing i wanna do a ntercooler sprayer for the stock tmic until i go fmic then ill re route it to thefront but only reason im doing this is i got the solonoid for free and the nitrous bottle for $50 all i need is the line and some wiring what is your opinion on this idea?
Thanks
TwEaK

Blackbob

How do you plan on hiding this from dad ?

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

lol i have my ways on some things lol
TwEaK

Blackbob

Untill he joins the forums..lol

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

rofl that would def never happen he hates computers all he uses it for is ebay lol which he is like higly addicted to but w/e lol im right now in the process of removing the downpipe to take the turbo off once ive removed that im going to take the LIM off and order my block off plates well see how that goes
TwEaK

Blackbob

I'm telling you just slide in one of those sequential turbo off the new porshe that have NO LAG and are good for like 30psi or something like that.....lol...then race your dad,he'll never know what hit him.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Turbo's are always related to the engine they are mated to.
Throwing in a turbo from another engine type is not the greatest thing.

The hotside may not be right for a rotary.
THe 30psi remark is with no reference to CFM.

A T70's 10 psi is MUCH more than a Stock hitachi18 10psi...

So in theory he could actually be slower throwing on some cars turbo.

Anyway..
I'd say at 120k your engine is ready to call it quits and performance mods will just hasten the death.
The turbo most likely has a bit of shaft play by now and may even be leaking past the front seal.

Blackbob

We where just chillin talkin ****,we've already covered the technical.