GTR

iTrader: (6)

Sup guys, I've just take out the rats nest and putting in the vaccum lines. I'm currently removing the metering oil pump and its lines. Now is there something I need to keep from the rats to get the twin scroll to work or is that completely seperate? Also, I'm currently putting the vaccum lines in.. tell me if this is true.

Cap the nipples on front of the UIM
4mm line from FPR to bottom nipple on the back of the UIM facing firewall correct?
4mm line from the nipple at the injectors to the second nipple on the back of the UIM
im not running MOP anymore so I would have to cap this?
4mm line from the old CSS vac nipple to the back of the UIM
Cap the 4th nipple on the back of the UIM
4mm from the UIM near the BAC to the pressure sensor
6mm from oil filler neck to the hard line (is not attached to vac spider), then to the TID
6mm vac cap for the other nipple on the oil filler neck
10mm line from brake booster to back of the UIM

If anyone have any 'real' or any pictures of the new vaccum diagram, that would be great. If you don't. I'm going to take a picture of the new diagram and post it so no one has these questions again.

thanks guys

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

As far as the twin scroll is concerned, I recommend you keep it. But it doesnt operate through a solenoid. Its just a regular line. At Vacuum, the actuator is pulled close, and as pressure is applied, the actuator releases and the scroll is opened.

Any intake line should actuate this.

Jarrett

RETed

Uh, actually, it runs through it's own (green) solenoid. The solenoid switches around 2,800RPM, which is triggered by the ECU.


-Ted

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

OOps, my bad. Thanks Ted. I see it now, pin 2K on the ecu.

Is it safe to assume it can be run sans solenoid?

Jarrett

RETed

I have forgotten the actual details of how it works, but I don't think you can just bypass the solenoid and have it work close to how it works stock? If anything, yank the bitch. I think the car runs better without the flapper in the turbo exhaust manifold.


-Ted

GTR

iTrader: (6)

I've read concerns about people having low power in low rpms and the high rpms isn't that great. I'm currently running stock turbo. In the future, when I upgrade maybe to a hybrid and i'll yank it out. As far as the vaccum diagram goes, that is correct? Also Thanks Jarrett and Ted. By the way, TED, YOU ARE A POST *****.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I ran with my twin scroll disconnected, and it was the worst experience of my life. Talk about waiting a REALLY LONG TIME for boost!

I reconnected it for now.

JArrett

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I know under vacuum, its pulled into the exhaust stream. Once no vac is applied, it frees up the exhaust area.

I would think that you could run it off a line from the intake, it might behave somewhat differently though. Might not react well to positive pressure on the diaghram.

Rat

GTR

iTrader: (6)

^bump

NZConvertible

Look at the schematics in the FSM (pages 4B-2 and 4B-53. They will show you how to arrange everything to make it work.

Basically you run a line from a vac source on the UIM to the check valve (arrow pointing towards manifold), then to the solenoid, then to the hard line that goes to the switching actuator. Make sure you connect the solenoid the right way.

Follow the schematics and it'll work fine. If you install the check valve or solenoid the wrong way around it won't work. You could mount the solenoid on the firewall behind the UIM.