quick question from a newbie...
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finally back in an RX-7!!
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quick question from a newbie...
Hey guys, this is only my second post here, and I've only had my rx-7 for about three weeks (it's an 87 base model 2+2). I got an AIWA cdc-mp3 cd player from a friend who didn't need it anymore, and I was wondering where I should have it installed, and approx. how much it would cost... does anybody know? thx!
~Andrew
~Andrew
#2
Yes, if you can follow instructions and are reasonably mechanically/electrically inclined, install it yourself. It's a breeze. Just go to Best Buy/Circuit City/Sound Advice and get a dash kit and a wiring kit.
Soldered connections would be best and isn't that hard to learn.
Soldered connections would be best and isn't that hard to learn.
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do it yourself.. its not that toough
although up here in canada, i can toss just about anyone 20 bucks and they will install it..
easy stuff man..
you will need a wiring harness, and a mount kit. both things you can usually order or buy off the shelf at an auto parts store..
if not, goto a car-audio speciality shop, and ask them what you will need and if they can get the parts, or ask how much will they charge to install it..
btw - dont waste your time with AIWA.. get an alpine cd player
although up here in canada, i can toss just about anyone 20 bucks and they will install it..
easy stuff man..
you will need a wiring harness, and a mount kit. both things you can usually order or buy off the shelf at an auto parts store..
if not, goto a car-audio speciality shop, and ask them what you will need and if they can get the parts, or ask how much will they charge to install it..
btw - dont waste your time with AIWA.. get an alpine cd player
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Originally posted by JerryLH3
Soldered connections would be best and isn't that hard to learn.
Soldered connections would be best and isn't that hard to learn.
works just as fine depending on how much neatness and skill you have with that
otherwise, when installing new speakers or the like, youll have a real mess because nothing will come apart cleanly if its installed using electrical connectors, or shrink tubed up, or the like.
(keep in mind im talking about the connections that lead up to the speakers.. for wiring that goes permanently to the deck / harness, then yes, definately use solder or some connectors and heatshrink tube..)
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heh, ok, so here's my issue. I'm incredibly lazy when it comes to non-essential stuff. I can do the electical stuff on my own I'm sure, and get all the parts and stuff, but like I said, I'm lazy and the audio isn't THAT important (the car DOES have 206k miles on it...) I was really just looking for a round number if anybody knew or had had one installed for them before. I thought it would be about 100, but I've heard 70 should about do it...
Also, I have the AIWA cause I got it for $55 (it was a $300 head unit, and is found for like $80 on ebay)
anyway, if anybody has a better round number (or an exact one, for that matter) let me know! :-) thanks!
~Andrew
Also, I have the AIWA cause I got it for $55 (it was a $300 head unit, and is found for like $80 on ebay)
anyway, if anybody has a better round number (or an exact one, for that matter) let me know! :-) thanks!
~Andrew
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well you live in america.. so to install the AIWA deck, i would NEVER pay more than 35 bucks.. any more than that and its a ripoff..
(im transferring the currency numbers.. at most it would take an hour to do, and most shops around canada charge about 50-55 bucks an hour.. so closer to 35 bucks is a good price for you)
DO NOT pay 70 bucks or 100 bucks.. thats a TERRIBLE price..
(im transferring the currency numbers.. at most it would take an hour to do, and most shops around canada charge about 50-55 bucks an hour.. so closer to 35 bucks is a good price for you)
DO NOT pay 70 bucks or 100 bucks.. thats a TERRIBLE price..
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finally back in an RX-7!!
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ok, thanks, I'll probably get it installed for me next week some time (again, too lazy to go out and get it done sooner than that) heh...
~Andrew
~Andrew
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yeah.. cool..
keep in mind thats the labour price.. it would be a bit more if you didnt provide them with the harness and mount kit (which arent expensive to begin with anyways..)
keep in mind thats the labour price.. it would be a bit more if you didnt provide them with the harness and mount kit (which arent expensive to begin with anyways..)
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Originally posted by charger-
Alpine is overpriced. It may be the choice of sound comp people, but whats the point of paying twice as much, for a deck with a few more features, that 99% of people won't use?
Alpine is overpriced. It may be the choice of sound comp people, but whats the point of paying twice as much, for a deck with a few more features, that 99% of people won't use?
i guess i tend to forget about the price of them since ive had mine for almost 2.5 years now and it still plays like brand new and sounds just as good..
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Originally posted by Black13B
i beg to differ on this one.. just strip the insulation off about an inch on both wires, twist them up really tight, and tightly electrical tape them together
works just as fine depending on how much neatness and skill you have with that
i beg to differ on this one.. just strip the insulation off about an inch on both wires, twist them up really tight, and tightly electrical tape them together
works just as fine depending on how much neatness and skill you have with that
Properly installing a stereo means using the proper harness, and making each connection with solder and heat shrink. Then, bundling things together in a harness and (here's the important part) LABELLING each wire.
Learn to solder: http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
I beg to differ. This is what I would call a "hack job" and why very few owners should come within 100 feet of their electrical system.
Properly installing a stereo means using the proper harness, and making each connection with solder and heat shrink. Then, bundling things together in a harness and (here's the important part) LABELLING each wire.
Learn to solder: http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
I beg to differ. This is what I would call a "hack job" and why very few owners should come within 100 feet of their electrical system.
Properly installing a stereo means using the proper harness, and making each connection with solder and heat shrink. Then, bundling things together in a harness and (here's the important part) LABELLING each wire.
Learn to solder: http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
"(keep in mind im talking about the connections that lead up to the speakers.. for wiring that goes permanently to the deck / harness, then yes, definately use solder or some connectors and heatshrink tube..)"
#13
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ALL connections should be properly soldered or (if they're too big) crimped.
If you need to be able to disconnect them, then install a proper set of connectors (I prefer Molex style).
If you need to be able to disconnect them, then install a proper set of connectors (I prefer Molex style).
#14
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Originally posted by Aaron Cake
This is what I would call a "hack job" and why very few owners should come within 100 feet of their electrical system.
This is what I would call a "hack job" and why very few owners should come within 100 feet of their electrical system.
Properly installing a stereo means using the proper harness, and making each connection with solder and heat shrink.
#17
I just cut the factory plugs off my harness and soldered the wires then zip tied the bundle. Looks original except for the different in color.. I dont see why ANYONE would want to twist wires, thats ******* stupid. One of my friends spent 600$ at a shop trying to find out why his fuel pump wouldnt turn on... want to guess why?
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twisting wires makes everything easier when it comes to the connections within 4-6" to an aftermarket speaker.
im picky with wiring, everything on my car as for aftermarket wiring is match colour shrink-tubed.
im picky with wiring, everything on my car as for aftermarket wiring is match colour shrink-tubed.
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Originally posted by dr0x
I just cut the factory plugs off my harness and soldered the wires then zip tied the bundle.
I just cut the factory plugs off my harness and soldered the wires then zip tied the bundle.
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Originally posted by Black13B
i beg to differ on this one.. just strip the insulation off about an inch on both wires, twist them up really tight, and tightly electrical tape them together
works just as fine depending on how much neatness and skill you have with that
otherwise, when installing new speakers or the like, youll have a real mess because nothing will come apart cleanly if its installed using electrical connectors, or shrink tubed up, or the like.
(keep in mind im talking about the connections that lead up to the speakers.. for wiring that goes permanently to the deck / harness, then yes, definately use solder or some connectors and heatshrink tube..)
i beg to differ on this one.. just strip the insulation off about an inch on both wires, twist them up really tight, and tightly electrical tape them together
works just as fine depending on how much neatness and skill you have with that
otherwise, when installing new speakers or the like, youll have a real mess because nothing will come apart cleanly if its installed using electrical connectors, or shrink tubed up, or the like.
(keep in mind im talking about the connections that lead up to the speakers.. for wiring that goes permanently to the deck / harness, then yes, definately use solder or some connectors and heatshrink tube..)
#23
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Originally posted by Black13B
twisting wires makes everything easier when it comes to the connections within 4-6" leading to an aftermarket speaker.
twisting wires makes everything easier when it comes to the connections within 4-6" leading to an aftermarket speaker.
electrical tape works fine as long as your not sloppy about it.. sorry to hear your previous owner was .
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I like using the harness because it means I don't have to modify the stock wiring, and/or I don't have to add a million spade connectors to interface with the stock harness.
I'm also going to repeat this again: making an electrical connection by twisting the wires together is BAD. It is not an acceptable means of insuring a good connection. As the connection corrodes, resistance will go up and add noise and create heat. If the electrical tape falls off (and it will) then you have a major hazard.
I'm also going to repeat this again: making an electrical connection by twisting the wires together is BAD. It is not an acceptable means of insuring a good connection. As the connection corrodes, resistance will go up and add noise and create heat. If the electrical tape falls off (and it will) then you have a major hazard.