Quick Pulsation dampner ?
#1
Turbo Waggin
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Quick Pulsation dampner ?
Hey anyone... regarding the fuel pulsation dampner.... mine is fairly new ( 4 years old) and when working in my engine today, the plastic cap popped off in my hand and there was a small screw that was sitting loose in the cap.... now i know what was rattling around in there.... anyone know why this happened? what is the purpose of the screw?]
Edit.. after searching more ive found conflicting comments, one says the screw tightened lets fuel in, and loosened, resricts fuel.... And one says tightening will ruin the dampner.... now im more confused
Edit.. after searching more ive found conflicting comments, one says the screw tightened lets fuel in, and loosened, resricts fuel.... And one says tightening will ruin the dampner.... now im more confused
#2
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Hey anyone... regarding the fuel pulsation dampner.... mine is fairly new ( 4 years old) and when working in my engine today, the plastic cap popped off in my hand and there was a small screw that was sitting loose in the cap.... now i know what was rattling around in there.... anyone know why this happened? what is the purpose of the screw?]
Edit.. after searching more ive found conflicting comments, one says the screw tightened lets fuel in, and loosened, resricts fuel.... And one says tightening will ruin the dampner.... now im more confused
Edit.. after searching more ive found conflicting comments, one says the screw tightened lets fuel in, and loosened, resricts fuel.... And one says tightening will ruin the dampner.... now im more confused
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You should never attempt to replace the screw, but rather it is time to replace the PD.
This is how the S4 PD works:
Grab yourself the Banjo Bolt from the rear end of an S4 fuel rail, get the washers from Mazda for the Pulsation Damper and do the swap. I know you probably think the Banjo Bolt Mod is too controversial to risk on your car, but trust me, it's fine. And then you never have to worry about the damn P.D. leaking ever again...
Replacing the PD with a new one means another 10 years or 100K miles without an issue and the fuel injection runs correct.
#4
Turbo Waggin
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Aside from the questionability of the mod.... i did some testing of my own and found this.... with no screw, at least for the 2 min i drove it, it drove a lot better than before ( as in, with the screw tightened, and halfway in, i was getting huge amounts of hesitation, like 1/4 power.... then i took it out, and it drove great... now knowing that its not a good idea to run the car with no screw.... i wont do it again... but just out of interest... why does it run better with no screw? and if it backed itself out... then why? is this the reason the fires occur? .. the screw falls out, and then eventually the pd fails, and spurts gas?
#6
Turbo Waggin
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Ten year, as in that it should last ten years? haha, if so, then im not getting another one from mazdatrix. thats where the last one was from....
But really.. could I have messed this one my self..? the only thing ive done to it specifically was removed it and re-tightened it while doing my emissions removal.... i vaguely remember someone saying that you shouldn't tighten it too much.... but that may of course been in regards to the screw, not the PD itself, into the fuel rail...
But really.. could I have messed this one my self..? the only thing ive done to it specifically was removed it and re-tightened it while doing my emissions removal.... i vaguely remember someone saying that you shouldn't tighten it too much.... but that may of course been in regards to the screw, not the PD itself, into the fuel rail...
#7
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Ten year, as in that it should last ten years? haha, if so, then im not getting another one from mazdatrix. thats where the last one was from....
But really.. could I have messed this one my self..? the only thing ive done to it specifically was removed it and re-tightened it while doing my emissions removal.... i vaguely remember someone saying that you shouldn't tighten it too much.... but that may of course been in regards to the screw, not the PD itself, into the fuel rail...
But really.. could I have messed this one my self..? the only thing ive done to it specifically was removed it and re-tightened it while doing my emissions removal.... i vaguely remember someone saying that you shouldn't tighten it too much.... but that may of course been in regards to the screw, not the PD itself, into the fuel rail...
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#8
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I would say replace it with a new one. Icemark is right; it is there for a reason. Its purpose is to absorb the vibrations in the rail caused by the injectors opening and closing. I have read about fuel starvation problems at upper boost and rpm ranges with no PD.
#9
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I would opt for the pneumatic-type PD instead of constantly replacing it.
Basically it is a tube that is sealed on the top, and mounted to the the highest point in the system. It will trap a pocket of air in it and the air will absorb the pulsations.
Basically it is a tube that is sealed on the top, and mounted to the the highest point in the system. It will trap a pocket of air in it and the air will absorb the pulsations.
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Aside from the questionability of the mod.... i did some testing of my own and found this.... with no screw, at least for the 2 min i drove it, it drove a lot better than before ( as in, with the screw tightened, and halfway in, i was getting huge amounts of hesitation, like 1/4 power.... then i took it out, and it drove great...
now knowing that its not a good idea to run the car with no screw.... i wont do it again... but just out of interest... why does it run better with no screw? and if it backed itself out... then why? is this the reason the fires occur? .. the screw falls out, and then eventually the pd fails, and spurts gas?
Last edited by Icemark; 06-17-07 at 11:45 PM.
#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
But really.. could I have messed this one my self..? the only thing ive done to it specifically was removed it and re-tightened it while doing my emissions removal.... i vaguely remember someone saying that you shouldn't tighten it too much.... but that may of course been in regards to the screw, not the PD itself, into the fuel rail...
#12
Turbo Waggin
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Properlly installed, and not tampered with, the S4 PD typically lasts 10 years or about 100K miles.
If the PD has been tampered with (such as the screw removed and re-installed) the PD should be replaced. It is not longer set correctly and will fail. No if's ands or but's. It will fail in sort order. Even if only 1 year has gone by. Another way that they fail is when people remove the cap, and dust or other contaminants can get to the screw or even worse... blocks the screws cap. That also increases the failure rate.
If the PD has been tampered with (such as the screw removed and re-installed) the PD should be replaced. It is not longer set correctly and will fail. No if's ands or but's. It will fail in sort order. Even if only 1 year has gone by. Another way that they fail is when people remove the cap, and dust or other contaminants can get to the screw or even worse... blocks the screws cap. That also increases the failure rate.
#13
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#14
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Aside from the questionability of the mod.... i did some testing of my own and found this.... with no screw, at least for the 2 min i drove it, it drove a lot better than before ( as in, with the screw tightened, and halfway in, i was getting huge amounts of hesitation, like 1/4 power.... then i took it out, and it drove great... now knowing that its not a good idea to run the car with no screw.... i wont do it again... but just out of interest... why does it run better with no screw? and if it backed itself out... then why? is this the reason the fires occur? .. the screw falls out, and then eventually the pd fails, and spurts gas?
-Ted
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replace the PD with a banjo bolt so it's no longer a problem. sure, a new PD could last 10 years, also could last 6 weeks. that's a gamble I'm not taking.
If you need a banjo bolt to eliminate the PD just PM me. I can send you one for $10 shipped.
If you need a banjo bolt to eliminate the PD just PM me. I can send you one for $10 shipped.
#19
Turbo Waggin
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I was just describing my experience, as we've already discovered, this PD is shot.... so i drove it around the block under 3 different scenarios... the first, the screw fully tightened, the second, the screw loosened to what felt like halfway, and the 3rd- no screw at all..... on the first 2 drives, the car hesitated like crazy, and the 3rd drive, it ran strong, no hesitations. Im not saying that i would ever really drive a car with no PD screw, or that anyone else should EVER... im just describing my experience with a PD that we all assume needs to be replaced. Why these things happened, i dont know.... what im trying to find out is WHY they happened... aka....did i do this myself? or did the PD fail by itself....? I want to know what i can do differently in the future....
#20
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You can heatsoak the engine, and it will cause the same experience.
To be pointing the finger at the PD is just plain ignorant.
It's like saying you tightened youy lug nut 5 lb-ft more, and the car handled better!
Total bullshit.
-Ted
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How exactly is it false? That is the method residential plumbers have been using for decades to solve water hammer in homes. Only recently has it been phased out since the trapped air dissolves into the water and the chamber and it becomes waterlogged. (key search word: plumbing air chamber)
There may be something I haven't thought of with this, but it seems perfectly reasonable that a trapped pocket of gas will absorb large pulsations in an otherwise incompressible liquid system. I guess I'm just curious of an explanation of your strong response, and I hope this will cause a semi-productive debate for once.
Edit: Ted, we can chat on aim if you want to keep out the clutter.
Last edited by papiogxl; 06-20-07 at 02:19 AM.
#22
Turbo Waggin
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Sorry.... hop on a plane, and come on over... ill even cook you a hot dog. I just tried this whole thing all over again... no screw, no hesitations. Screw in, then backed it out a half turn... i even stalled the car twice just trying to get into first, because the engine jerked so much with any throttle. I dont mean to claim the impossible, but it just what im finding, perhaps some other factors are at play here, i admit that the car has been acting up ever since last week when i pulled my thermal wax and did the TB mod... and it was a beast to start.... BUT, when i did, it drove fine.... only after a bit did it start to hesitate... but then i adjusted the TPS using a DMM and it smoothed out nicely....
BUT .... i still just want to know? what causes a PD to fail.... and when i say fail.. i mean.... the screw backed itself out and was loose in the cap.
#23
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How exactly is it false? That is the method residential plumbers have been using for decades to solve water hammer in homes. Only recently has it been phased out since the trapped air dissolves into the water and the chamber and it becomes waterlogged. (key search word: plumbing air chamber)
There may be something I haven't thought of with this, but it seems perfectly reasonable that a trapped pocket of gas will absorb large pulsations in an otherwise incompressible liquid system. I guess I'm just curious of an explanation of your strong response, and I hope this will cause a semi-productive debate for once.
Edit: Ted, we can chat on aim if you want to keep out the clutter.
There may be something I haven't thought of with this, but it seems perfectly reasonable that a trapped pocket of gas will absorb large pulsations in an otherwise incompressible liquid system. I guess I'm just curious of an explanation of your strong response, and I hope this will cause a semi-productive debate for once.
Edit: Ted, we can chat on aim if you want to keep out the clutter.
The fuel system does not dead-end anywhere.
So how can you claim it's the same phenomenon?
If you have air bubbles in the fuel rails, you have bigger problems than the PD.
There is NOT SUPPOSED TO BE ANY AIR IN THE FUEL SYSTEM.
-Ted
#24
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Sorry.... hop on a plane, and come on over... ill even cook you a hot dog. I just tried this whole thing all over again... no screw, no hesitations. Screw in, then backed it out a half turn... i even stalled the car twice just trying to get into first, because the engine jerked so much with any throttle. I dont mean to claim the impossible, but it just what im finding, perhaps some other factors are at play here, i admit that the car has been acting up ever since last week when i pulled my thermal wax and did the TB mod... and it was a beast to start.... BUT, when i did, it drove fine.... only after a bit did it start to hesitate... but then i adjusted the TPS using a DMM and it smoothed out nicely....
You have a dyno close by?
How about to adjust the PD as much as you want...do back-to-back-to-back dyno pulls, and I'LL PAY for the dyno runs?
We'll see if there is any difference?
BUT .... i still just want to know? what causes a PD to fail.... and when i say fail.. i mean.... the screw backed itself out and was loose in the cap.
I call LEAKING GAS = failure.
-Ted
#25
Turbo Waggin
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I tell you what...
You have a dyno close by?
How about to adjust the PD as much as you want...do back-to-back-to-back dyno pulls, and I'LL PAY for the dyno runs?
We'll see if there is any difference?
I don't call just because the screw fell out = failure.
I call LEAKING GAS = failure.
-Ted
You have a dyno close by?
How about to adjust the PD as much as you want...do back-to-back-to-back dyno pulls, and I'LL PAY for the dyno runs?
We'll see if there is any difference?
I don't call just because the screw fell out = failure.
I call LEAKING GAS = failure.
-Ted
"If the PD has been tampered with (such as the screw removed and re-installed) the PD should be replaced. It is not longer set correctly and will fail. No if's ands or but's. It will fail in sort order."
And when the screw is in, the car is so bogged down that it feels like its running on 1/4 power.... i give it gas and it goes nowhere... Getting to a dyno would be pretty hard untill i replace the PD. And seemingly pointless, because my grandmother could tell me somethings up with my car when i cruise by going 5 mph... at 4000 rpms...... You see what i mean? and im not saying that the PD is the primary problem. im well aware that it could be the PD in concert with some other untuned gremlin.... i dont know . but imma run down to Atkins today and pick up a spare PD, and then ill find out....