Mavman117

Okay so the first problem is my idle. My car was once an automatic and is now a manual. It was idling a little higher than what it was supposed to to I went to adjust the idle screw on the top of the intake and now it wont even run. I had another throttlebody and decided that since I couldn't get it idling how it was before I would just switch it out since it was still set up at stock off of another s5 engine with a manual transmission. Now when I replaced the throttlebody the car wouldn't even start right. Half the time it would flood and the other half of the time it would go up to 3k and then when it started to go down to 1500 it would drop down lower and just stall. My first question is how can I get the idle back to normal. I have tried putting the idle screw on the top back to the same position but neiter throttlebody with work even when adjusting the top scrrew. My second question is when I changed out the throttlebody and the engine started up the tach would work for a min and then die. I have checked all the connections including the connection for the switches on the throttlebody and also the gauge cluster and all connections are working correctly. I do not have someone to hold the idle of the car high enough for it to keep running to check the connections to make sure they are getting power. What could cause my tach to die? I really dont mind not having a tach but I really do not like the check engine light on the dash glowing at me because if something does go wrong I will not know. Thank you for the quick responces everyone. I will not be able to work on the car until monday but once I hear all of your suggestions and work on the car I will let you know.

Also the alternator keeps eating belts and I have tried to swap out the alt with another and it is still eating belt and the gauge on the inside is only eading 12 - 13 volts but when they test the alt at the store it always passes. Any Ideas???


Also ecu has been replaced with a manual ecu (both are for manual transmissions), I have checked all the connections on the gauge cluster and on the throttlebody, and I'm pretty sure it isn't flooded because it will run fine when the car is revved to 1500+ rpm.

satch

iTrader: (1)

All ECU's work for either an auto or manual transmission as it goes both ways!

The initial set coupler needs to be jumpered before adjusting the idle adjust screw or the BAC will fight the adjustment being made.

The tach relies on a signal provided from the trailing coil.

Mavman117

Ok so if I jump the coupler do you think that it will reset itself and I will be able to get it to idle correctly or do I still need to adjust everything again even though everything is put back to stock??? Also if it is the trailing coil that is messing up the tach could it be that the pack is dieing and that is what is causing it to not idle correctly and stall out since it may be misfiring? The only reason why I ask is because I have a complete spare coil pack and if switching them out will fix the tach then I will definately do it and it kinda just makes me wonder lol.

Also thanks for the speedy responce.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The coupler does not reset anything as it only dampens the BAC's ability to react to changes in idle.

The car can run on just the leading coil. If the car was running properly and the trailing coil was disconnected the car should still run. That the trailing coil works sometimes and then not sounds like an electrical wiring issue as opposed to the coil itself, but this might be inaccurate as it might be the coil itself. There is a single Black wire that just hangs from each coil. These two Black wires could be jumpered and the leading coil would provide the proper signal for the tach. This could be done to adjust the idle properly where you need the tach to be working or it could be jumpered to run the tach in case you wanted to disconnect the trailing coil for diagnostic purposes.

Mavman117

As far as I know the trailing coil is working fine I was just meaning that if the tach is working intermittenly then would changing out the whole trailing coil possibly fix it because I have a spare set of coils. Also if everything was reset without the coupler then shouldn't it run fine since the BAC is still registering the same as what it was before I messed with anything? The main thing I really am trying to do is just get the car so it can idle correctly. The tach can be fixed later.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you jumper the Black wires that I mentioned and the tach works w/o any problem then the problem w/the tach lies either within the trailing coil or the Yellow/Blue wire that connects the coil w/the tach. How would you know if the idle speed is correct w/o a tach of some sort?

If the idle adjust screw was altered then how would everything be reset to how it was previously? Just eyeing it isn't good enough.

Mavman117

i scribed everything before I started messing with everything so I know that everything is back where it was. Any idea what would cause the car to run correctly above 1500 but once it starts to idle it bogs out and dies??? I know you said the BAC but is there any way to reset everything or anything???

satch

iTrader: (1)

How long does it stay at 1500 rpm before dropping to a lower idle? Can you use the throttle to keep it from dying.

Mavman117

well if it is cold it does the 3000 for around 10 seconds then 1500 for about 20 - 25 seconds and then it drops down to 700 - 800 for about 1 second and then it starts to drop below 500 and bouncing back until it dies after the second or third bounce.

If i jumper those wires do you think that the BAC would stop trying to adjust the idle and I may be able to get the engine to idle steadily around the 700 - 800 area?

Mavman117

am i correct???

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need the car to at least stay running to be able to adjust the idle adjust screw.

Try and use the throttle to stop it from dying long enough to warm up the car and then see if it still dies. There might be a vacuum leak contributing to your problem.

Mavman117

thats what I am going to do but it will still die when idling once it warms up. there isn't a vacuum leak because I already checked the vacuum hoses that I had to remove when I replaced the throttlebody.

Mavman117

Okay so I got the car warmed up and I unplugged the BAC valve. Did the same thing. Although before I did that I did notice that the tach was working again unless it is a temperature sensative thing and only does it after a little while of the car being up to OP. Anyway so I tried finding the place to jumper the connection but I do not have a plug that looks anything like what I have saw in pics. Here are the plugs that I have. I have 2 blue sockets and 2 green sockets. The big green socket has 4 wires into it and the small green socket has 1 wire. Also the small blue socket has 1 wire and the big blue socket has 2 wires. When I jumped the big blue one with the two wires the car would start but would instantly die no matter what position the throttle was in. Am I jumping the wrong wires???




Also if anyone is wondering about what kinda light I use it is my hood light. I made a hood light for my car that was set up like a shop light and I can pull it out of the hood and put it anywhere that I want. It is really quite nice lol.

Mavman117

ok so I think I figured out what is going on. I jumped the single green one so that I can get my codes and I got codes 12 and 18

engine code 12 is Throttle Sensor (Full Range) Open or Short Circuit
engine code 18 is Throttle Sensor (Narrow Range) Open or Short Circuit

So since those are the only codes that I am getting what could be the problem???

jjwalker

Make sure it is plugged in first.

If it is, check the sensor.

If it is out of spec, replace, or if it turns out good...

Check that the ECU can actually see it, meaning test the pins at the ECU to make sure there isn't an open circuit.

Mavman117

Where exactly is it located. I have a manual but I have a hard time finding where the stuff is actually located since most of the pics are s4 and mines an s5. Ok so I found what I need to check but how do I check it???

jjwalker

The TPS is located toward the bumper side of the throttle body. You'll see two plungers. There is a connector that is approximately 4 inches of wiring away from it. It will either be a white or black connector. It has 6 wires going to it, and 6 pins.

If those plungers aren't there, that is your problem. If they are there, it is easily identified.

Mavman117

Yea I found it i guess you were posting when I was making the edit to my previous post. Now the only question is how to test it....

satch

iTrader: (1)

Refer to step #2 for the S5.

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1

Mavman117

Thx for the page. Will go out in a little bit and try to test the resistance. I dont know which pins are which though because the image isn't available
......

Mavman117

Ok so I went back out and did the codes again while paying attention this time. The codes given are as follows....

1 1 Short Ignition Coil (Trailing Side) Spark Plug Malfunction, Broken Wire or Short Circuit
12 1 Long & 2 Short Throttle Sensor (Full Range) Open or Short Circuit
18 1 Long & 8 Short Throttle Sensor (Narrow Range) Open or Short Circuit
25 2 Long & 5 Short Solenoid Valve (Pressure Regulator Control) Open or Short Circuit
30 3 Long Solenoid Valve (Split Air Bypass) Open or Short Circuit
31 3 Long & 1 Short Solenoid Valve (Relief 1) Open or Short Circuit .Solenoid Valve Connector
32 3 Long & 2 Short Solenoid Valve (Switching) Open or Short Circuit .Solenoid Valve Connector
33 3 Long & 3 Short Solenoid Valve (Port Air Bypass) Open or Short Circuit
38 3 Long & 8 Short Solenoid Valve (Accelerated Warm-Up System) Open or Short Circuit
40 4 Long Solenoid Valve (Purge Control) Open or Short Circuit .Solenoid Valve Connector
41 4 Long & 1 short Solenoid Valve (Variable Dynamic Effect Intake (VDI) Control) Open or Short Circuit

Now there is alot of things missing on this motor because I got it from some people in columbus oh and they kinda just threw it together I think so I am gonna try and fix everything.

First thing is first. The tach is going and I have a #1 engine code so that will be taken care of tomarrow by swaping the entire coil and ingnitor out with another one.

#12 and #18 are being worked on and will be completed once I find a diagram of the pin layout on the connector.

I do not know what most of these things are but as I find out I will post more information.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If there was an emissions delete then that would explain most of the error codes except for few or so.

The first error code might be a result of wiring so be prepared if after the swap it still shows up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Tidbit

Mavman117

ok thx for the pic. I have gotten the narrow range fixed but the full range is still outta spec. Narrow is at 1.1k at idle position and at 6.010K at full throttle. I figure 10 Ohms isn't gonna hurt it really. now the problem is my full range is at 1.45K at idle instead of in the range of 0.6K to 0.9k ohms. At full throttle it is 5.68K which is outside the range of 3.4K to 5.1K Ohms. How do I tone the full range down??? Or do I need a new one??? I am doing this on my spare throttlebody so that if I have to ever swap them it is already set up.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you checking both TPS's or the one on the car or the one not on the car..