Question-smoke from clutch release cylinder
#1
Question-smoke from clutch release cylinder
Hi All,
The other day, I was driving and noticed odd smell. Opened the hood, and found smoke from clutch release cylinder (based on Mazda manual J1-9 "manual transmission for na".) I understand one is supposed to be left not connected, but what could cause it to smoke? Clutch condition is okay, as I can still shift without slipping.
Thanks in advance!
Ricky
White, '91 Vert (bone stock)
The other day, I was driving and noticed odd smell. Opened the hood, and found smoke from clutch release cylinder (based on Mazda manual J1-9 "manual transmission for na".) I understand one is supposed to be left not connected, but what could cause it to smoke? Clutch condition is okay, as I can still shift without slipping.
Thanks in advance!
Ricky
White, '91 Vert (bone stock)
#2
are you sure that the smoke was not rising out of the inspection plates on the bell housing?
is there any leaks in the car that may have dripped fluids onto the rear iron?
if not.....I would recommend a complete flush of the clutch fluid - perhaps some dip **** put something wrong in there.......although I still don't see how the slave cylinder could be smoking, even if the wrong fluids are the case..........
is there any leaks in the car that may have dripped fluids onto the rear iron?
if not.....I would recommend a complete flush of the clutch fluid - perhaps some dip **** put something wrong in there.......although I still don't see how the slave cylinder could be smoking, even if the wrong fluids are the case..........
#3
Thanks Classicauto,
I'll look more carefully to find exactly where the smoke was coming from. For a while, it did look like it was coming from the valve that didn't have any hose. I'm not sure of leak possibility, as it wasn't the usual spilt oil burning or something. But if it's from housing... I'll test more later!
Thanks!
Ricky
I'll look more carefully to find exactly where the smoke was coming from. For a while, it did look like it was coming from the valve that didn't have any hose. I'm not sure of leak possibility, as it wasn't the usual spilt oil burning or something. But if it's from housing... I'll test more later!
Thanks!
Ricky
#5
WHAT...???
I knew it was slipping, reeeealy little, but that is... ouch! So clutch and gears are going...
How long would you say I have? Is this the very first stage? I haven't driven other stick shift in so long that I have very little idea it was that bad...
Thanks for any info!
Ricky
ps. I coudn't find the cause of smoke, but clutch/gears are subject talked everywhere in the forum!
I knew it was slipping, reeeealy little, but that is... ouch! So clutch and gears are going...
How long would you say I have? Is this the very first stage? I haven't driven other stick shift in so long that I have very little idea it was that bad...
Thanks for any info!
Ricky
ps. I coudn't find the cause of smoke, but clutch/gears are subject talked everywhere in the forum!
#6
If the clutch is smoking, its days are numbered.
If you have to make it last, keep the throttle light, especially in the higher gears.
A worn out clutch won't hurt the gears.
If you have to make it last, keep the throttle light, especially in the higher gears.
A worn out clutch won't hurt the gears.
#7
Thanks Sureshot!
OK. I'll keep it minimal driving, and get to the clutch when I can.
Good to know about the gears, as I thought it might affect since it's so near. I'll study other postings, as I've seen so many about the topic.
Thanks again; I feel relieved now that I know whats going on.
Ricky
OK. I'll keep it minimal driving, and get to the clutch when I can.
Good to know about the gears, as I thought it might affect since it's so near. I'll study other postings, as I've seen so many about the topic.
Thanks again; I feel relieved now that I know whats going on.
Ricky
Trending Topics
#8
Sometimes you can replace a clutch and get by without machining the flywheel, but once it starts burning, the flywheel must be pulled & re-surfaced for the new clutch.
The 2-1/8" flywheel nut is torqued to sometimes over 300 ft-lbs.
That makes it a challenge to do yourself.
Call your local repair or transmission shops to get clutch job quotes, so you know ahead.
Here's a tip- When you refill the tranny, use synthetic gear oil. The gears & syncros will love it.
The 2-1/8" flywheel nut is torqued to sometimes over 300 ft-lbs.
That makes it a challenge to do yourself.
Call your local repair or transmission shops to get clutch job quotes, so you know ahead.
Here's a tip- When you refill the tranny, use synthetic gear oil. The gears & syncros will love it.
#9
Thanks again for the tips, SureShot.
I was looking at rx7.com, and they had such thing as "Pilot Bearing Removal Tool," which seems to be available for rental/sales. Is the 2-1/8" flywheel nut same as this pilot bearing?
Thanks for the oil tip. I don't think I'll be calling shops, as I promised my wife that it will never see a mechanic (though I didn't say a friend whoc loves FC...) That was the only way I could convince FC... (yeah, the other car is '02 Protege.) So, I'll try to update whatever nearby that needs work, which flywheel is probably one of them, and I'll try to throw-in a short throw shifter.
6-puck clutch with a flywheel is a pretty pricy set-up you have! Is it a twin-clutch? It must really feel fun shifting!!! The thing is, I don't know anyone around here with FC!
Thanks!
Ricky
I was looking at rx7.com, and they had such thing as "Pilot Bearing Removal Tool," which seems to be available for rental/sales. Is the 2-1/8" flywheel nut same as this pilot bearing?
Thanks for the oil tip. I don't think I'll be calling shops, as I promised my wife that it will never see a mechanic (though I didn't say a friend whoc loves FC...) That was the only way I could convince FC... (yeah, the other car is '02 Protege.) So, I'll try to update whatever nearby that needs work, which flywheel is probably one of them, and I'll try to throw-in a short throw shifter.
6-puck clutch with a flywheel is a pretty pricy set-up you have! Is it a twin-clutch? It must really feel fun shifting!!! The thing is, I don't know anyone around here with FC!
Thanks!
Ricky
#10
The 6-puck grips really strong, but at the expense of flywheel wear.
They go about 20-30K miles.
Special tools to pull/remount the flywheel:
3' long 1/4"x 2" steel bar, drilled to bolt on the flywheel to keep it from turning.
2-1/8" (54mm) socket & 3-4 ft cheeter bar.
a 2 lb dead blow mallet & pry bar will pop the flywheel loose from the shaft taper.
There is a thread on this forum on fitting a Miata short throw shifter.
I got one on e-bay for $36 shipped.
They go about 20-30K miles.
Special tools to pull/remount the flywheel:
3' long 1/4"x 2" steel bar, drilled to bolt on the flywheel to keep it from turning.
2-1/8" (54mm) socket & 3-4 ft cheeter bar.
a 2 lb dead blow mallet & pry bar will pop the flywheel loose from the shaft taper.
There is a thread on this forum on fitting a Miata short throw shifter.
I got one on e-bay for $36 shipped.
Last edited by SureShot; 01-19-06 at 07:43 AM.
#11
20-30K miles for a flywheel! Wow, that is a painful expense! Well, but it's a TII with a big power... I may have gone for it, too.
Thanks for the tools! I'll tackle it after thorough research, and probably couple of beers for confidnece.
Yeah, I've read some Miata shifter threads. But $36? That's much better than what I thought! Together with LSD, I guess there are numerous parts we can take from Miata.
Thanks SureShot!
Thanks for the tools! I'll tackle it after thorough research, and probably couple of beers for confidnece.
Yeah, I've read some Miata shifter threads. But $36? That's much better than what I thought! Together with LSD, I guess there are numerous parts we can take from Miata.
Thanks SureShot!