rx7raca- Hey man when your don't can you post a total cost for the electric actuation? I have a friend with an S5 that wants to get rid of his air pump.

Santiago

 

Electric air pumps are all pretty much the same at your local Autozone/Advance/Pep-Boys/Napa... Mine cost $19 bucks and came with two horns. Other than that, I have no idea of the brand/make of the pump.

Good luck with your project. PM me if you have any specific questions about the wiring.

 

S5's are even easier!!! For S5's you don't need the Summit RPM switch. The stock ECU works perfectly!

All you need is the relay and the electric air pump. Total cost is under $30 bucks.

-Hook the relay to the 6-port 3-way switching valve power.
-Hook the air pump to the 12V relay
-Connect the air-pump output directly to the 6-ports AND the input of the 3-way switching valve for the VDI.
-Done.

With this setup, the air pump kicks on at 3800 RPM and will stay on until RPM < 3800. The VDI will still function normally at 5000 RPM.

 

ya i hate the s5, it makes me wish that i waited little longer an bought one so i wouldnt have to deal with upgrading all these items on the car... but i still like my car its fun an easy to work on. i really would like to get my ports working ASAP i just need money now an im good to go.

 

You missed the part where I said it should be airtight.

Otherwise it's an inefficient system. You're still risking premature airpump failure. They are not rated for constant use. Especially if you keep redlining shifts (above 4k for some time).

But I have already considered this myself. The cost of a new pump is definately not going to break your bank. And the chances of it failing (with your setup) will mean the pump loses a few years off it's life. Doesn't mean you can't get tons of life out of it anyways.

Not a big deal. But still. Should be an airtight setup, with the pump operating only for a second for optimum efficiency of everything.

 

I really don't see why the system has to be air tight. The only benefit is that the Electric Air pump duty cycle goes down.

Have you ever looked inside one of these electric air-horn pumps? There isn't a whole lot to them. The compressor side of an electric air pump is very similar to that of any pneumatic air grinder. There is a chamber with 4 fiberglass reinforced fins inside. Not sure how familiar you are with pneumatic grinders, but they last for years and years with constant abuse. The weakest part of an electric air pump is the motor because it generates heat and friction wears down the motor contacts.

So the question is: How much duty cycle does it take to kill one of these small electric air pumps? Nobody seems to know. When I burn up this first one, I'll get back to you.

As for pump efficiency vs. installation simplicity, I'd pick simplicity. The system you describe would require several switches to operate the air pump as well as the 3-way valve to pressurize and release the system. Not that it can't be done, it's just that the system would work exactly the same way. (Except of course extending the life on a $19 dollar air pump)

 

I actually have one in front of me right now, bought from the same seller silverrotor got his.

The duty cycle is drastically reduced on an airtight system. This would also mean alot less draw on the battery. I've tested these, and they actually eat up a fair bit of juice to crank out that air.

Less running time means less strain on both the motor and less voltage being eaten up.

You see what I mean about efficiency.

But I agree that @ being 19 bucks per pump, it's not really a big deal. Just pointing out the facts, though.

 

For setup all you would need is a line from the compressor to the diaphragm input, and teeing off to a small electronically controlled valve, rather than atmosphere. Not that complex, really.

The hardest part about it is kicking it on for only a second or two @ the proper rpm to build the pressure, and then also having the dump valve dump at the appropriate time. That does get complicated.

But I said it once and I'll say it again. It's just a 19 dollar pump, so I agree - it's not that big of a deal.

 

ok im having little trouble understanding how to hook up the electrical part. i havent done to much on electrical work. so bare with me...
here are the questions:

how do i hook the switch to the coil?

where can i get a 12v relay? how much do they cost? and how do i hook up the relay to the switch.

if you could get pics that would be awsome.

 

bump

 

Do you have the RPM switch yet? Everyone is a little different, but they all work the same.

As for getting the signal from the leading coil? There is an 1/8" black barrel connector located at the top of the coil. This is connected to the imput of the RPM switch.

The 12V relay can be bought at Radio Shack for about $6 bucks. Part Number: 275-226.

You want pictures? Hummm. How about this:
http://wozzoo.tripod.com\HowTo\Electric6ports.jpg
(You'll have to paste this URL into a new browser...Stupid Tripod)

 

Can someone tell me how the hell to hook-up the air-pump to the 6-ports on an S4?

PJ

 

do you not see all the posts ahead of yours...read

 

I read it all, jackass. There is in-depth coverage of how to wire an electric pump and very little about plumbing an EGR solenoid-- no specific directions for S4 users who still use the air-pump. (pics would be helpful. Anybody? Zach? Wozzoom?)

You wouldn't even have posted this damn thread if you had read the archives, hypocrite. If you know the frickin answer to my Q, post it. Otherwise, STFU.

PJ

 

um...are you smoking crack...dont call me a jackass when you want pple to help, if would read you would easily be able to figure it out, i have an s4, im only 17 an i can figure this out..

also...mr. im to kool to read this thread...i did read other threads on this topic, i made this thread to clear up a few things an set things straight, not for your lazy *** to come in here an start talking ****.

this thread is about useing the ELECTRIC ap, not stock, stop high jacking threads an start your own on how to use the stock ap.

 

Petty flames won't get anybody anywhere. Relax guys. At least if your going to flame, keep it into just a sentince.



PJ, both silverrotor and I just plumbed a line from the main line off the airpump to the ACV. That plumbed line - run it straight to the port inputs. Seemed to work for both of us. I know it worked sitting still (they actually opened for me at 3800 rpm everytime I tried), but I was never able to actually drive the car and watch to see if they open (obviously). They felt like they did though.

 

Thanks, Colin. how did you go about plumbing it? The only thing I can visualize is welding a nipple of some sort onto the metal portion of the air-pump output. Is this similar to what you did? Do you have any pics?

RX7raja, sorry. I didn't know you were the official owner of this thread. Please don't arrest me for not asking a stupid question about "ELECTRIC" actuation that's been asked a million times already.

PJ

 

Right off the main line..

The little s-bend rubber hose.

just poke a hole in it, and fit in a small barbed hose fitting, then silicone around it.

It will be airtight, and all the supply from the airpump will be pushed into the ACV and the excess (which happens to be enough to open the ports) will go into the aux port input.

 

Cool, I will try it today an post my results.

PJ