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Putting engine back together?

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Old 09-23-11 | 07:09 PM
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Putting engine back together?

I'm working on putting the accessories on my keg that just got rebuilt and I was wondering which items should be lock tightened or torqued to a specific spec. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Old 09-23-11 | 08:41 PM
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This is what I have done so far.
Old 09-23-11 | 09:04 PM
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anti sieze on the exhaust manifold and turbo retainers, torqued to spec.

only external bolt/nut i see i would use threadlocker on is the flywheel nut. lower intake to block and water pump housing bolts dry and torqued to spec. the rest can be assembled without any threadlocker and snug with hand tools. only bolts i put threadlocker on are internal engine parts like stat gears, front pulley main bolt, oil pump and pickup tube.
Old 09-23-11 | 10:52 PM
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I was gonna start a thread with kinda same question, but this thread came up so I just gonna make sure I'm getting everything right :

Use Blue on :
- Front Pully Main bolt
- the 4 oil pump bolt
- Pick up Tube
- the 6 Bolts on the Front Stationary Gear

User Red on:
- The Flywheel nut. (it was assembled without any thread locker, -_- but I prefer safety and wanna keep my legs so yeah I will use it now)

Good enough right ?
Oh one more question about the flywheel nut, in the FSM it saids apply Sealant to the contact surface of the locknut ??? I assume they mean the "FLAT" side of the nut will go against the Flywheel(not the chamfer side) but what the hell? sealant? for what ? I never heard of anybody who did that.
Old 09-23-11 | 11:11 PM
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for the most part i just use the torque wrench in my elbow ... after 10+ years wrenching u get a feel for the torque, but still, i do religiously torque the crank pulley, LIM, oil pump and tension bolts. those are just a few things i dont want to leave any question. its always decent practice to use thread locker on the oil pump bolts and flywheel nut, those are things you dont want trying to work itself loose

( but if you really think about it, the rotation of the motor should "tighten" the flywheel nut under load, not loosen, so it shouldnt really try to work itself loose, but its better to be safe than sorry)
Old 09-24-11 | 11:54 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you torque the flywheel to 350ft-lbs, you don't need threadlocker. i do occasionally put a dab of silicon on the thread and let it ooze out, but its 350ft-lbs! its not going to move!
Old 09-24-11 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
you torque the flywheel to 350ft-lbs, you don't need threadlocker. i do occasionally put a dab of silicon on the thread and let it ooze out, but its 350ft-lbs! its not going to move!
well, there was no threadlocker on the Locknut, only found some Blue stuff on the front pulley bolt, it should be ok w/o it ... but I bought the Red and Blue stuff a while ago so I was like Ahhh whatever just use it.

Red on the Flywheel Locknut, Blue on other stuff.

oh and I put a bit of silicone/sealant on the back of the locknut. I have never seen anybody did that but the FSM said put some so I did it anyway. used the Black RTV stuff.
Old 09-24-11 | 10:57 PM
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Thank you everyone. It's been very helpful!
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