will the purge control valve make the car not start if not plugged in it hooks to the emissions i know but the car seems like it wants to start but it doesnt and i found the purge valva broke had to order one from mazda for 55$ but i need it plus you guys think it will start when i put that in and plug it all up

 

with the top snapped off (they snap together) you would have a pretty big vac leak which would make starting hard and idling even harder.

 

icemark do you know if the valve is one way? or will it allow boost into the oil pan?


edit: werid it appears it doesn't suck at idle either. only after 2000rpm.

 

um i noticed the car trying to start but it dont i hope buying this 55$ part from mazda fixes all the problems i am having with my fc thanks for the info iceman

 

just plug the 3 lines and it should start and run just fine.... just don't drive like that till you put it back together.

if it doesn't start isn't not your problem


bump for my Q

 

bump

 

Good news the purge valve i ordered hasnt come in yet but i rig the old on and i got the car to start it idled for like 1 min then i had to get out and close the garge door so the house wouldnt smake up then as the garge was closing the car therefore never started after ive tried again i think i flooded it this time i hope to get it back running agian the valve was the problem cause it started right away as i turned the key but smoked like a bitch.

 

Ok for all the haters out there that said the purge valve was not the problem for my car not starting. Just to reinform you haters it was the problem now my car starts up like a bueaty cars sounds kick *** with the new header so all the ppl that had faith in me thanks....


~Matt

 

My TII runs with or without a purge valve. Your off your rocker man.


Santiago

 

ok dude i got a 90 na and if the car didnt start without it then magically starts when i put a new one one well that must have been the problem!!!!! hummmm you think. off my rocker ya!

 

You probably left the thing's vaccume cap unplugged and it was having a major leak.

 

Weird

 

The purge valve is not required for the car to run. The problem was the massive vacuum leak cause by the old broken one.

 

nobody knows eh?

 

you had 2 replys

first "hater" says you'll have a vac leak making hard to start and idle.

2nd "hater" says to block the lines to prevent the vac leak. at which point try starting again. if it starts then that's your problem. if it doesn't start. you still have another problem.

 

sorry, I just have not played with one enough to know.

I would suspect that it would not allow boost into the pan/lower end of the motor.

 

As a new member, you are getting off on the wrong foot. What is a "hater"? You're not a **** activist are you? People were genuinely trying to help you and you call them "hater". Christ kid, grow up.
A FSM is available for free that you can see what a PURGE CONTROL VALVE" is. That routes into your intake and if it is cracked, one can assume it will cause a HUGE vaccum leak and make it hard to idle or start if it's big enough. As people mentioned, it is not required for the car to run. Many many people run without it , I for one . It's part of emmisions and when properly capped, you can get rid of it.

 

Mine is hooked up to a big vacuum hose in the intermediate housing and the little vacuum nipple on top goes right to a nearby vacuum port. Does that sound right? My new Jspec won't hold idle and feels like a big vacuum leak. Also, the oil vent pipe is run to a big nipple just below the oil pipe, the other end seems to come out below the area by the purge valve and I ran that to the metal tube going along the firewall to the charcoal canister. Does that sound right to you?

 

A Purge Valve WILL NOT allow boost pressure into the pan. There. Done did my good deed for the day. Please see you local fsm for the reason the above is TRUE.

By the way......nah, I'm not going to say what I was about to say about two small vac lines causing a engine not to start. It's tooooo cruel.

 

You have one vacuum line on the Purge Valve. The other two are NOT vacuum sources. (EDIT:Well, at least not all the time. The small one on the bottom is a vac hose that is blocked off until the one on top sucks) They are delivery pipes/hoses. The Purge Valve has a diaphram that seperates the lower two hose from each other. There is a spring with the diaphram. The top hose sucks at times. When it does it forces the diaphram up against the spring force and then lets the lower two hose join together so to speak. NO vacuum....the spring slams dunks the diaphram down and closes the lower two hose off from each other.

Note: There ain't no vacuum when boosting .....so in what condition is the diaphram and spring in now? Yes, that's right. Hopefully a jpg will be attached with this post. That all depends on this site.

When you get right down to it, the car in question really only had two very small vacuum leak. It's really hard to believe that would keep a engine from starting. But....seeing is believing.

THIS WAS HEAVILY EDITED AFTER I FIRST TYPED IT. Sorta a oooops thing.

 

ah sweet. I think mine's going back in then.

what was confusing me was the black arrow into the TID under "hard load".

my best guess was under boost, the purge let boost into the pan which then escaped into the TID along the black arrow through that check vavle (since it only opens under pan pressure?)

maybe that is just a backup incause the purge diphram fails or something?

do you think it's safe to run the purge valve with the other one blocked off?

 

As you probably figured out with all the editing in the above post...I am no expert. But, while my head is swelled up, I'd say you NEED that check valve to some degree. Say your at boost. Then the Purge Valve can't purge the vapors/pressure that might be in the crank case. I think the whole purpose of the checkvalve is during boost conditions when it's not possible for the fumes/pressure to pass thru the Purge Valve. In that situation the fumes/pressure must go thru the checkvalve into the inlet duct. Yep. That must be the way. Oh, the word safe was brought up. Errrr, ahhh, I'd say at least vent to atmosphere if not using the check valve.

 

On the purge valve, the top nipple is attched to a the vacuum nipple right next to the purge valve (on that's pointing straight up. This goes to a one way check valve that plugs into the turbo inlet duct)The big one on the purge valve goes to the oil pipe. The bottom small nipple is attached to a metal line next to the purge valve (pointing towards the drivers side. This goes to the bottom nipple on the throttle body)

 

Ok so where does that big hose from the intermediate housing go to?

 

****, it's been awhile since I yanked out the emissions crap. Looking at the FSM I think it goes to the charcoal canister. There should be a large metal nipple facing the front under the solenoids. I know THAT attaches to the intermediate housing.