timfaris

how do you know your damper is leaking an if screw is out an u put it back will it fix problem. i have fuel on my block an cant find the leak but put back together it starts an the starts leaking. please help.

HAILERS

You pull the dynamic chamber or intake manifold off. You jumper the fuel pump check connector. Turn the key to ON, engine OFF. Leave the car like this for at least fifteen minutes. Use eyeballs for leak detection.

Your second post. Oh well. The fuel pump check connector is a YELLOW, TWO SOCKET connector located near the right front strut tower. It more or less floats in the harness. In other words not tied or connected to anything at all. It MIGHT have a piece of black shrink tubing (boot) over the yellow plug. You get a piece of wire bare at each end. Put one end in one socket and the other end in the other socket. That is what jumpering means.

Do not worry. There is no voltage on either socket. One wire is a gnd wire and the other goes to the Circuit Opening Relays coil. It puts a gnd on said coil to pull said relay in and put power on the fuel pump so it will RUN.

Even if the dynamic chamber/intake manifold is on, you can still do the jumper job and let the thing sit for over fifteen minutes. A puddle should form under the car if it's leaking. It will leak on the exhaust manifold. So use common sense.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

And to fix it you must replace the pulsation dampener. Turning the screw will block it for a short time and then it will tear and cause a tremendous leak.

This leak is a major fire hazard by the way, since it is right above the hot exhaust manifold.

timfaris

thanks i blew a intake mani gasket at the track an ended up replacing injector o-rings 2 times an today i still ha this problem i didnt know how to check this peice of sh#!. all i know is it cant be o rings an the puddle on my block only derives when the engine is together an running for about 5 to 10 minutes

HAILERS

About the screw. The screw, screws into a rubber diaphram. IF you screw it back in, you should not use any torque to speak of. I mean if you TORQUE that screw into the diaphram, the diaphram will twist and possibly break. I've seen the screw fall in the plastic cup on the end and have screwed one back in, but used minimal pressure. Just enough to know it had *bottomed out* so to speak. That PD was not leaking and the screw falling out will not cause a leak in itself. The hole left by the fallen scew, does not lead to fuel. It dead ends in a brass fitting in the middle of the PD.

If it's been leaking, then replace the PD. Installing the screw will NOT stop a PD leak. No way.

Icemark

PD... how it works:




and S5, for those who want to start the S5 is better crap:

timfaris

if this is it then where does the pd leak from? im getting the puddle on my block an smoke on or around my injectors thats all i can see with the engine together. and intake gasket replace ment has cost 400.00 so far so ill try the test of the yellow socket but is this the only place that would leak? could a injector be broke in the center some how???

HAILERS

Those diagrams by the ICEMARK are really good.

If the diaphram rips, the fuel will leak around it and exit the plastic cap area. That's where it leaks.

The fuel injector "O"rings can leak and the fuel hoses can leak. I had a fuel line leak. I was several hundred miles from home and driving home. Smelled a bit of fuel all the way. The next moring I took the dynamich chamber off, jumpered the yellow two socket connector and turned the key ON, engine off. There was a minute leak in the fuel hose just a shooting a small spray of fuel all the time.

I've also screwed up fuel injector installation. Didn't check the thing out till the upper intake was on and engine idling. Hmmm, is that water dripping on the exhaust and falling on the concrete? Or fuel. Fuel is the answer. Cut the oring on installing the injector. Real dummy thing to do.

timfaris

how long till you seen fuel on the ground my leak has not hit the ground within 20 minutes an would you drive about five miles to get the car home right now its at a friends an i have to work outside in the cold when i can get a ride.

HAILERS

Welllllllll............I have a bit of adventure in me and I have a couple of other cars to drive if it burnt to the ground, so, frankly using a bit of bad judgement, I'd drive the thing home. '

I know this isn't the RIGHT answer and is a bit of bad advice in a sense, but I'd drive it to the house. What? Me worry?

kustomizingkid

iTrader: (2)

Just put in a banjo bolt and forget about it.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

If your PD is leaking you cannot fix it. Your options are to either replace it with a new PD or use a banjo bolt, but a new PD is better. With a (good) new PD you are likely fixing the problem for tens of thousands of miles. With a banjo bolt you are merely getting rid of the pulsation dampener. That means you aren't dampening the fuel pump pulses, causing erratic injector output. The stock ECU is tuned so conservatively that a banjo bolt won't destroy the motor. The fuel system can likewise handle the extra pressure pulses. But why dip into that nice conservative safety net just so you can save a couple hundred bucks over the next 50,000++ miles? If anything you'd be better off dipping into it with an SAFC for better mpg and horsepower. And honestly, $300 (assuming you pay someone else to do it) over 50k++ miles is half a cent per mile. You probably lose more from fuel economy alone after putting in the banjo bolt. I mean, it'd only take half a mpg. Just about every fuel injected car on the planet uses a pulsation dampener.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Replace it. Be safe.

HAILERS

Here's a few jpg of a PD that was in a fire:

timfaris

thanks to all i order a new pd 159.00 plus the washers be here friday wish me good weather an maybe next time i wont push 22 psi threw the thing. thats how i blew the intake 6.4 in a eight going to miss it.

timfaris

who has a fuel manage system for sale send me pics an price

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

look in the for sale section.