project FC3S 13BT-TC(twin charged)
#26
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
If you want to get into CNC/Mill, here are a few links you might be interested in.
CNC conversion for Sieg X2 mini mill (There are many copies of this mill, even harbor freight has one)
http://cncfusion.com/minimill1.html
Best X2 mini mill I have found. (Largest X and Y travel in its class)
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ory=1387807683
When all said and done you can have a small CNC machine for around ~$3000. It’s a decent size investment, but it’s an investment into your career, and the returns should be worth it.
CNC conversion for Sieg X2 mini mill (There are many copies of this mill, even harbor freight has one)
http://cncfusion.com/minimill1.html
Best X2 mini mill I have found. (Largest X and Y travel in its class)
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ory=1387807683
When all said and done you can have a small CNC machine for around ~$3000. It’s a decent size investment, but it’s an investment into your career, and the returns should be worth it.
#27
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
here is what the underside of the charger looks like, you can see some sort of feed holes to the backside of the bearings but as i mentioned they may just be to aid in removal of the bearings.
the port outlet of this assembly is also smaller than most other eatons so porting the front area will be more difficult to accomplish without creating a big open pocket for air to become turbulent in(i may also be overthinking this). i may just incorporate a block off into the adapter plate to block off that area so that it can be ported for a more wide outlet area(towards the arrow point).
the port outlet of this assembly is also smaller than most other eatons so porting the front area will be more difficult to accomplish without creating a big open pocket for air to become turbulent in(i may also be overthinking this). i may just incorporate a block off into the adapter plate to block off that area so that it can be ported for a more wide outlet area(towards the arrow point).
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-11-11 at 06:02 PM.
#28
yeah i got ya, but at this point in time i may not even be doing this in a year's time. thanks for the links, if i do wind up with a chunk of money and want to put it into a small mill it sounds like a good alternative, though full sized mills usually run about $7k used and have much larger capability.
#29
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
i'm thinking for now i may just leave it unmolested, i really do want to retain some margin of bottom end torque from this supercharger and porting it i would tend to think will adjust it's power curve upward for a more top end engine design. the turbo will help improve it's potential in that area so i would rather not do anything irreversible to the supercharger to later find out it would have been better left alone.
to modify it would only take a few hours so it's easier to leave it be for first stages of testing.
so my outlet plate will just utilize the charger output area and the rest of the deck will be blocked off including the bypass throttle valve. directly in and directly out to start with. maybe i will mess with that additional valve later on as some sort of bypass for the turbo system, as a sort of pop off valve for overboosting/overevving situations, controlled by the microtech since i'm not digging blowoff valves anymore and the potential failure points they create.
to modify it would only take a few hours so it's easier to leave it be for first stages of testing.
so my outlet plate will just utilize the charger output area and the rest of the deck will be blocked off including the bypass throttle valve. directly in and directly out to start with. maybe i will mess with that additional valve later on as some sort of bypass for the turbo system, as a sort of pop off valve for overboosting/overevving situations, controlled by the microtech since i'm not digging blowoff valves anymore and the potential failure points they create.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 02-12-11 at 10:33 PM.
#34
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Sharp Claws
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picked up some plate to make the baseplate for the SC to sit on and fabricate the outlet for as well as to make the intake and throttle body adapters for. aside from that it's gotten extremely busy with the pre-summer rush so i can't give any promises on when updates will be in but i would like to have the basic setup complete by the end of next month for the vegas car show.
did also pick up a small lathe so i may just make my own SC pulleys once i get the necessary dimensions down, but that may be in the future to adjust initial boost levels from the SC after i gauge the necessary changes.
did also pick up a small lathe so i may just make my own SC pulleys once i get the necessary dimensions down, but that may be in the future to adjust initial boost levels from the SC after i gauge the necessary changes.
#35
Super Raterhater
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From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
If I recall the blades are teflon coated to improve sealing qualities. The eaton could end up being a minor choke point, creating a boost activated bypass (much in the same way they use the idle bypass) would help with that issue though. There's going to be a lot of heat coming off the eaton!
#36
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
If I recall the blades are teflon coated to improve sealing qualities. The eaton could end up being a minor choke point, creating a boost activated bypass (much in the same way they use the idle bypass) would help with that issue though. There's going to be a lot of heat coming off the eaton!
anyways, here is a bi-monthly(or whatever) teaser as i spent a few hours putting it back together, i still need to detail it a little more(grinding down the ribs to aluminum for a meaner look) and then do the clear coat.
went with copper as it is kind of gold, since i'm in vegas now i figured what the hell. the color has been growing on me lately.
been looking at universal 80mm billett throttle bodies for the final fabrication work and to get rid of the clunky looking stock throttle body.
just so you guys don't think i'm flaking out on this.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-28-11 at 02:11 AM.
#38
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
of course after fitting the unit i see it's going to be tough to clear the firewall with the long snout so i may just see if i can pick up a short snout to ease the fitment.
anyways, i'll be cutting the baseplate for the SC tonight and just picked up the Evo IC core for the v-mount(they're cheap and the fitment is about perfect for a 7 v-mount setup).
anyways, i'll be cutting the baseplate for the SC tonight and just picked up the Evo IC core for the v-mount(they're cheap and the fitment is about perfect for a 7 v-mount setup).
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 05-31-11 at 10:36 PM.
#39
Rotary Revolutionary
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From: Jacksonville, Tampa & Tallahassee
...Evo IC core for the v-mount(they're cheap and the fitment is about perfect for a 7 v-mount setup).
#40
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
yea i know, currently i'm still running a saab 9000 intercooler which is why i'm only making ~350WHP at 15psi(this identical turbo made 449WHP on a customers car @17psi with greddy front mount for example). the Evo core is actually about half the surface area, smaller but much thicker(about 1" with the saab core to 3" for the evo core. the saab core is nice and large though.. the face on it is larger than the FC radiator) for less pressure drop. it's worked fine for the past 5 years so i just left it in there until i did switch to a v-mount, which has limited space for a massive core.
working out a different method to cut the base plate as my torch was unable to cut the 1/2" plate steel, will be more of a pita than i imagined.
working out a different method to cut the base plate as my torch was unable to cut the 1/2" plate steel, will be more of a pita than i imagined.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-03-11 at 05:59 PM.
#42
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
part of the delay was during test fitment i found that the longnose M90 wasn't going to cut it, the SC was longer than the engine. would require a spacer for the SC pulley on the crank which i really didn't want to do.
but yesterday i scored a shortnose M90 at the wreckers for $65. so hopefully i can get things rolling again in the near future. it, of course, needs to be rebuilt as well. probably wasn't even anything wrong with the 2 supercoupes that were in the yard with the SCs on them, they both had tons of SC play which sounds like a rod knock typically.
but yesterday i scored a shortnose M90 at the wreckers for $65. so hopefully i can get things rolling again in the near future. it, of course, needs to be rebuilt as well. probably wasn't even anything wrong with the 2 supercoupes that were in the yard with the SCs on them, they both had tons of SC play which sounds like a rod knock typically.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-14-12 at 04:22 PM.
#44
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Sharp Claws
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From: Central Florida
unfortunately that's me.
i also have the outline for the SC base drilled, it just needs to be cut out and trimmed then the inlet welded on.
personal projects always take a back seat until i have some spare time or am going too insane to work on customer cars.
but i also think i am going to have to yank the engine and do some durability mods to it prior to finishing this project. i just don't think the weak S4 rear iron or the brittle atkins seals will be appreciative of one of the most torque based rotary setups built to date. may as well try to salvage the parts rather than destroy the whole engine just to figure out what i already assume is going to happen.
S4 TII parts aren't falling out of trees these days and i think the S4 TII rotors will be ideal for this project.
time for my bitch to get pinned and either Goopy or ALS seals, that or begin working on the 4 rotor. i'm still leaning towards this project and doing the 4 rotor for the shop car.
i also have the outline for the SC base drilled, it just needs to be cut out and trimmed then the inlet welded on.
personal projects always take a back seat until i have some spare time or am going too insane to work on customer cars.
but i also think i am going to have to yank the engine and do some durability mods to it prior to finishing this project. i just don't think the weak S4 rear iron or the brittle atkins seals will be appreciative of one of the most torque based rotary setups built to date. may as well try to salvage the parts rather than destroy the whole engine just to figure out what i already assume is going to happen.
S4 TII parts aren't falling out of trees these days and i think the S4 TII rotors will be ideal for this project.
time for my bitch to get pinned and either Goopy or ALS seals, that or begin working on the 4 rotor. i'm still leaning towards this project and doing the 4 rotor for the shop car.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-14-12 at 08:49 PM.
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