Progress thus far
03-16-06, 10:39 PM
#51
Originally Posted by El Nene 7
Hey Chris i am gonna give you a visit when i go to CALI bro we have to hang out, keep us updated....note:i am copycatting you..lol
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
That looks really good.
Some bling bling that can sting.
I'm sure I'll be able to see it in person soon as we're only across the bay from one another.
Some bling bling that can sting.
I'm sure I'll be able to see it in person soon as we're only across the bay from one another.
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
damn that is one of the nicest engine bays i've seen
Originally Posted by iceblue
I hate taking off the linkages! It takes like 2 hours to figure out how they went back on.
LOLOL... that is why you see the TB to the left as a ref....
:0)
03-17-06, 03:08 PM
#52
Battery Relocation
Someone asked me to show some pics, so I will note what I did.
I found it cheaper to buy a Summit Battery Relocation kit then to buy just the wire from my local auto parts store. I did not used the black battery case, it is to tall for the lid to close. Still, even though I did not use it in the kit, the kit as cheaper than buying JUST the cable at my local store.
I cut out a piece of plywood and plcaed that under the battery tray. Bolted it through the underbody. I bought a 100amp breaker from the local stereo shop. Mounted it to the side of the bin. Grounded the negative to the chassis.
Then I ran the HOT cable through the other side of the bin, added a splitter for things like a amp, and the Fuel Pump Relay mod as decribed on 1300ccpro.com?
Ran the Hot under the wood shield.
Drilled through the firewall right below the Clutch.
Used a rubber groment to protect the shielding. The bit I used is at the bootm of the page.
Rand the Hot down the wall and then bought the splitter from some stereo shop online. Ran it up to the Terminal Relocation so I would have a positive to work with in the engine bay. The BMW's are like this. My ladies battery is in the rear under the passenger seat. That is where I got this idear...
Also ran re-ran the hots that go to the Main Fuse box. You dont see the negative hooked up, but I cut it at the adapter that mounts it to the Body. You will see it on yours.
Close up of terminal - bought it at Jegs
The bit I used - Short, universal, and easy to use. Got it at OSH.
Hope that helps.
I found it cheaper to buy a Summit Battery Relocation kit then to buy just the wire from my local auto parts store. I did not used the black battery case, it is to tall for the lid to close. Still, even though I did not use it in the kit, the kit as cheaper than buying JUST the cable at my local store.
I cut out a piece of plywood and plcaed that under the battery tray. Bolted it through the underbody. I bought a 100amp breaker from the local stereo shop. Mounted it to the side of the bin. Grounded the negative to the chassis.
Then I ran the HOT cable through the other side of the bin, added a splitter for things like a amp, and the Fuel Pump Relay mod as decribed on 1300ccpro.com?
Ran the Hot under the wood shield.
Drilled through the firewall right below the Clutch.
Used a rubber groment to protect the shielding. The bit I used is at the bootm of the page.
Rand the Hot down the wall and then bought the splitter from some stereo shop online. Ran it up to the Terminal Relocation so I would have a positive to work with in the engine bay. The BMW's are like this. My ladies battery is in the rear under the passenger seat. That is where I got this idear...
Also ran re-ran the hots that go to the Main Fuse box. You dont see the negative hooked up, but I cut it at the adapter that mounts it to the Body. You will see it on yours.
Close up of terminal - bought it at Jegs
The bit I used - Short, universal, and easy to use. Got it at OSH.
Hope that helps.
03-17-06, 03:53 PM
#55
Originally Posted by Karack
looks great but the battery positive junction block looks a bit hazardous.
hope you get it all finished and can make it down to the rotaryextreme BBQ next month.
hope you get it all finished and can make it down to the rotaryextreme BBQ next month.
I am gonna try my best to make it. What is the date again?
04-14-06, 12:10 PM
#58
Wastegate porting, Turbo Blanket, and BeCool wrap.
I had the waistgate ported at a place here in Livermore called Valley Machine. Great f'n people. They also do great alluminum welding. Highly recomended.
<br>
<p>
BeCool wrap
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<p>
Runing the IC now. Getting my BOV welded on at the moment. I will run lots of ducting to force the air through the rad channel.<br>
<p>
<p>
<br><p>BeCool wrap
<p><p>Runing the IC now. Getting my BOV welded on at the moment. I will run lots of ducting to force the air through the rad channel.<br>
<p><p>
04-14-06, 02:35 PM
#62
Originally Posted by rotorforce
Looks incredible and 100 forum bucks to you for sharing it with us.
Who polished your manifolds?
Who polished your manifolds?
I polished the manifolds. It took forever, and I looked like a coal miner every night!
06-30-06, 12:12 PM
#65
Turbo Oil Feed Line - adding a restrictor pill
Someone asked me to help them with this. Here are some pics of how I ran it.
I tapped the existing banjo bolt with ta 1/8 npt tap. Screwed a m/f 1/8 npt 90 on it. Then a 1/8 npt male to a -4 an male fitting. Then the -4 an coupler w/the hose on it.
line runs behind water jacket.
The brass fitting is the restrictor. The aluminum adapter and restrictor can be bought from ATPTURBO.com Other parts: 1/8 npt to -4an 90, and a -4 an coupler.
Just another view.
I tapped the existing banjo bolt with ta 1/8 npt tap. Screwed a m/f 1/8 npt 90 on it. Then a 1/8 npt male to a -4 an male fitting. Then the -4 an coupler w/the hose on it.
line runs behind water jacket.
The brass fitting is the restrictor. The aluminum adapter and restrictor can be bought from ATPTURBO.com Other parts: 1/8 npt to -4an 90, and a -4 an coupler.
Just another view.
06-30-06, 02:25 PM
#66
Originally Posted by The Wankler
I tapped the existing banjo bolt with ta 1/8 npt tap. Screwed a m/f 1/8 npt 90 on it. Then a 1/8 npt male to a -4 an male fitting. Then the -4 an coupler w/the hose on it.
Why didn't you just use a metric-an adapter for $5-$10?
Also, you should never use teflon tape with -an fittings. The threads have nothing to do with sealing the fitting. The seal comes from the mating of the two 37' seats and if for some reason the seal leaks, as with a scored/mutilated surface, the teflon tape wouldn't do a damn thing anyways. The leak woud find its way out the back of the threaded fitting
06-30-06, 02:45 PM
#67
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
Tapping that bonjo bolt looks like the hard way to do it.
Why didn't you just use a metric-an adapter for $5-$10?
Why didn't you just use a metric-an adapter for $5-$10?
Originally Posted by RX-Heven
Also, you should never use teflon tape with -an fittings. The threads have nothing to do with sealing the fitting. The seal comes from the mating of the two 37' seats and if for some reason the seal leaks, as with a scored/mutilated surface, the teflon tape wouldn't do a damn thing anyways. The leak woud find its way out the back of the threaded fitting
Last edited by The Wankler; 06-30-06 at 02:55 PM.
06-30-06, 03:45 PM
#68
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by RX-Heven
Also, you should never use teflon tape with -an fittings. The threads have nothing to do with sealing the fitting. The seal comes from the mating of the two 37' seats and if for some reason the seal leaks, as with a scored/mutilated surface, the teflon tape wouldn't do a damn thing anyways. The leak woud find its way out the back of the threaded fitting
NPT fittings really need some kind of sealant (tape or pipe dope) to seal, though they can be installed without sealant if torqued to all hell. The Aeroquip catalog specifies that NPT fittings with sealant get hand tightened then tightened another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Without sealant they need to be torqued another 2 turns according to the catalog. Good luck getting most NPT fittings to go 2 turns beyond hand tight.
06-30-06, 03:50 PM
#69
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I only see Teflon tape on the NPT side of adapter fittings.
NPT fittings really need some kind of sealant (tape or pipe dope) to seal, though they can be installed without sealant if torqued to all hell. The Aeroquip catalog specifies that NPT fittings with sealant get hand tightened then tightened another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Without sealant they need to be torqued another 2 turns according to the catalog. Good luck getting most NPT fittings to go 2 turns beyond hand tight.
NPT fittings really need some kind of sealant (tape or pipe dope) to seal, though they can be installed without sealant if torqued to all hell. The Aeroquip catalog specifies that NPT fittings with sealant get hand tightened then tightened another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Without sealant they need to be torqued another 2 turns according to the catalog. Good luck getting most NPT fittings to go 2 turns beyond hand tight.
Thanks Aaron. I though for minute, "Did I make a 3rd grade mistake?"..... Then I looked over the pics and felt better. Guess I could remove the excess on the outside to get more bling bling like Rx-Heven!
06-30-06, 06:51 PM
#73
The Silver Bullet
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simply beautiful, I love your battery relocation setup, i will most likely be copying it 
what is that second air filter for by your rad cap and the "cold side" of you IC piping?
Your fuel setup is amazing as well, I'm thinking of doing is just because it looks better, not becuse I'm pushing that sort of power lol
great job man, I might have to make a trip out to cali to see all the wonderful rx's out there
what is that second air filter for by your rad cap and the "cold side" of you IC piping?Your fuel setup is amazing as well, I'm thinking of doing is just because it looks better, not becuse I'm pushing that sort of power lol
great job man, I might have to make a trip out to cali to see all the wonderful rx's out there
06-30-06, 09:49 PM
#75
Originally Posted by Alex6969
simply beautiful, I love your battery relocation setup, i will most likely be copying it what is that second air filter for by your rad cap and the "cold side" of you IC piping?
what is that second air filter for by your rad cap and the "cold side" of you IC piping?It is a breather for oil blowby. Catches the excess oil that normaly circulates back into you intake.