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In Progress: S5 Five Speed Swap, Clarification Needed

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Old 12-15-15, 10:47 AM
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Hopeful Future

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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
yes, the bolt head should be long enough that you still have threads to tighten against.
Just to idiot proof myself, this is done with the flexplate already off correct?
Old 12-15-15, 01:18 PM
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yep
Old 12-16-15, 02:14 PM
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Have to work today, but I was up a bit earlier than anticipated, so I pulled out the flywheel/clutchdisc/pressureplate I got from the salvage yard as a whole.

Some of the markings are a bit concerning, then again it probably has sat on the shelf there for a decade or more.

Any idea on how to clean the dirt/imprints off the pressure plate and flywheel face?

Carb cleaner good?





new clutch disc I bought, it doesnt specify which is the flywheel side or not. Side A





Other side of clutch disc, side B

Any idea which side is the flywheel side? I'm guessing side B





Pressure plate, dirty





old clutch disc laying on flywheel





Pressure plate face. note the dirt and imprint from being there so long lol





Flywheel face, note the debris on it as well.
Old 12-16-15, 03:11 PM
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just get out a block sander and knock off the rust, be sure there's no hot spots or grooves in either the PP or flywheel.
Old 12-16-15, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
just get out a block sander and knock off the rust, be sure there's no hot spots or grooves in either the PP or flywheel.
I read that in the FSM as well, but it doesnt specify what grit. Any idea on what grit to pick up?

Also...what about that new clutch disc...side A or B? I'm thinking B is the flywheel side...


..I should just rename this thread to Help me RotaryEvolution, you're my only hope
Old 12-16-15, 05:16 PM
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120-200 grit would be ok.

humped disc side goes towards the back of the car.

lol
Old 12-18-15, 06:00 PM
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Well, Hoped to get the car fully swapped today but had some issues with availability with parts, but all is good now, I just need to go pickup the 54mm socket tomorrow and get that flexplate and counterweight off and the five speed stuff can start going in!


Rotaryevolution, I went to the local hardware store like you recommended (and btw, you were correct, 10x1.25) and purchased a bolt to try your removal technique for the counterweight. Heres a picture of the stock bolt next to the one I purchased. Too long? Too short? Just right?





Bolt i purchased at the local hardware store next to the factory counterweight bolts.


Also, idk if you would know about this or not, but, I had the machineshop follow rotaryresurrections guide for making the crossmember adapter..and...something just doesn't look right. He said he followed the directions, and I know its probably hard to tell, but by looking at it can you see if he drilled the holes wrong?

Old 12-18-15, 07:21 PM
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that bolt looks about right

the adapter i couldn't tell ya, i only worked on one auto conversion and i welded in the proper manual mounts in front of the old autos.
Old 12-18-15, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
that bolt looks about right

the adapter i couldn't tell ya, i only worked on one auto conversion and i welded in the proper manual mounts in front of the old autos.
So to recap, once the flywheel is off, just thread that longer bolt into any hole on the counterweight, tighten, whack, tighten a small bit more, whack, etc, until it comes off? exactly how much can i tighten this longer bolt down before I have to start worrying about damaging whatever it is threading into?
Old 12-18-15, 11:16 PM
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never really mangled a rear stat gear by that method and i do it with an impact gun. just be sure the large retaining nut is loose first. it really shouldn't take a ton of effort.
Old 12-18-15, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
never really mangled a rear stat gear by that method and i do it with an impact gun. just be sure the large retaining nut is loose first. it really shouldn't take a ton of effort.
So, just to idiot proof myself again, by large retaining nut you mean the 54mm flywheel/flexplate nut?
Old 12-19-15, 07:31 AM
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yep
Old 12-19-15, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
yep
Well, Had some success today, although not as much as I liked. Got the flexplate off with ease thanks to that harbor freight impact gun, and kudos to the counterweight trick, worked like a charm. Anyway, got the pilot bearing, flywheel, and clutch/pressureplate on.

Problem now is, the damn transmission will NOT go in all the way. I used a clutch alignment tool when installing the pressureplate, so that cant be it. the tranny feels like its completely mated on the bottom right hole, but everywhere else has a tiny gap.

Ive tried everything, had my friend rotate the crank bolt while i pushed and wiggled, no go. Pushed, pulled, nothing. It just will not go all the way on. Any suggestions?

its just hanging there by itself right now

Last edited by Tyblat; 12-19-15 at 06:01 PM.
Old 12-19-15, 06:24 PM
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make sure a wiring harness or hose hasn't managed to get caught between the bellhousing and engine.
Old 12-19-15, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
make sure a wiring harness or hose hasn't managed to get caught between the bellhousing and engine.
will double check tomorrow when I have light. Also, I tried putting the shifter in (its an S4, tranny is S5, idk if that matters)

And it wont go in either, theres this stupid clip in the way..idk what to do about it. Do i just force the shifter down on top of the clip, pry the clip to one side?


I ask because alot of people have been saying put the driveshaft into the tranny, put tranny in gear, and rotate a bit to get it to align easier.

But that shifter just wont go in.
Old 12-19-15, 06:36 PM
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you can try putting some of the bolts into the bellhousing loosely, jack up the nose of the engine lightly and then jiggle the tranny and see if it pops in. using a driveshaft with the tranny in gear sometimes works too.

the shifter spring sits offset, you will need to carefully slide it in around the spring. that spring is for the 1/2 shift gate return to center and it breaks easily.
Old 12-19-15, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
you can try putting some of the bolts into the bellhousing loosely, jack up the nose of the engine lightly and then jiggle the tranny and see if it pops in. using a driveshaft with the tranny in gear sometimes works too.

the shifter spring sits offset, you will need to carefully slide it in around the spring. that spring is for the 1/2 shift gate return to center and it breaks easily.
So, I have to push that spring to the side to clear the hole for the shifter to drop in? Thats a pretty narrow area to work with lol.. that is what you are saying right?


Btw, continued thanks for all of your advice, definitely giving credit on my build thread.
Old 12-19-15, 10:39 PM
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push it aside with the shifter itself while pushing the ball into the socket.

no worries.
Old 12-21-15, 05:09 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
push it aside with the shifter itself while pushing the ball into the socket.

no worries.

Ended up dropping the under carriage, and using the C channel that i'm using for the transmission adapter to lift the engine back by the crank pulley, got back under the car, and in she went.

I still cannot for the LIFE of me get that damn shifter in, I have no idea how you guys push that clip aside and just pop it in, i have to be doing something wrong.
Old 12-22-15, 11:04 PM
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I must be doing something wrong. I absolutely cannot get the shifter to go in unless I take that top metal circular bushing out of the top of the shifter hole. Its the big thick one that fits right inside the circular area where the three bolt holes are. With that thing in, I cannot get the shifter to go in, no way.


Can someone clarify how to get the shifter in with this piece? I have it in without that part, and it feels like ***, lol.
Old 12-23-15, 09:10 AM
  #46  
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got a picture?
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