Tyblat

Hey guys, I've got the car up on jackstands and am roughly about 80% done with the swap, and I'm using RotaryResurrections guide. Everything has went swimmingly so far. However I am concerned somewhat about the wiring.

Notably, in his guide he says:

"If working with an 89-91 car, find the 6 wire plug near the starter, and the 3 wire plug near that. ON the 3 wire plug there are 2 pins together and one offset; run a wire from this pin to either of the red wires on the trans. On the 6 wire plug, locate the bottom row, center pin; run a wire from this pin to the other wire on the trans."

This may sound like a stupid question, but depending on which way you are looking at the six wire plug, how would you know which one is the bottom row?


Also, when it comes to installing the flywheel..I've only done a flywheel/clutch install on a car that uses flywheel bolts, not a nut and Woodruff key.. Can someone be nice enough to tell me just how the Woodruff key is used when installing the flywheel nut?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the lock tab side is generally considered top row, that is how the wiring diagram shows all wiring connectors.

the woodruff key just sits flat into the shaft then align the flywheel notch over the key and slide it on. look through the back to be sure the key is still in the slot and about 1/4" from the threads, it can slide out and bind against the rear stat gear if it fits too loosely and you aren't careful when putting the flywheel on. you should be able to relatively easily push the flywheel on almost the whole length of the threads.

Tyblat

Appreciate the advice sir, thank you!

My next question is though, Since the car is auto, would it already have a woodruff key installed? and if so, would taking the flexplate off and putting the flywheel on disturb it?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yes, all engines use the same woodruff key and flywheel nut, only difference is the auto has a rear counterweight versus a whole flywheel like the manual. you should be able to swap on the flywheel without disturbing it.

you will also need to remember to install the pilot bearing, as your auto does not have one for the manual transmission.

Tyblat

Oh, awesome, I wasn't sure, but better safe than sorry that I bought one anyway! As for the pilot bearing, I bought one and the seal as well. I was considering using the mazdatrix tool for installing it, but you seem pretty knowledgeable, any suggestions on maybe an equally as effective way of tapping it in? Also, the seal. I assume that goes in after the pilot bearing itself in the same way?

Which btw, im not sure if youve seen it, I want to say you have, but feel free to track my progress if you'd like.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...d-gtu-1085041/

I really appreciate your contributions so far man, thank you again!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i use a 1/2" deep well socket and just tap it in so that there's a gap about the size of the pilot bearing between the pilot bearing at the taper in the eccentric shaft so that they both sit below that tapered edge.

np, if you need anything i'm not too far away either.

Tyblat

What part of Cfl? Feel free to PM me. I'm actually trying to source the last two parts of my swap lol.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

lake wales

Tyblat

Oh that's not that far of a drive.


...Also, that Hook bolt can go to hell and die. I can not for the life of me get at it from below the car, that stupid fluid check tube for the auto tranny is in the way, and the only wrench i can get on it from up top isn't long enough for me to have any leverage whatsoever.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

double up a wrench

Tyblat

Yeah, going to try that tomorrow. Once that damn thing loosens up the only thing holding the tranny on is the crossmember.

Tyblat

Also, random, but i noticed when I pulled one of the bottom bellhousing bolts out (cant remember which one exactly), some oil came out with it....any idea what that means? I'm thinking rear main seal.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

hard to say, oil can leak down from the filter during oil changes or blow up into the bellhousing from air while driving. just check the rear main seal for signs of leakage with the transmission out.

Tyblat

Whew, managed to get that bolt out, and the tranny off after some heavy finessing.

I looked into the FSM on the auto tranny section under the torque converter, but it really doesnt say how to remove it. It includes cleaning instructions, but thats about it. Any idea how to get that **** off of there?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

bolts are from the front of the flex plate facing the back of the car

Tyblat

Much appreciated on the help so far RotaryEvolution, Ill have to tackle that when I am off next.


On a sidenote, I was genuinely surprised just how much that tranny made the motor tilt back when I was pulling it out, that was just nuts.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the auto is a brick and rather funny how much of a difference the car responds by putting a manual into it.

Tyblat

Getting that thing off I thought was going to be a royal pain, but it ended up going exactly the opposite. I found the four bolts you were talking about, and thought to myself "dammit, this torque converter is going to rotate the second I try and crack one of these loose"

Spoiler alert: the torque converter moved anytime I would try and crack the torque converter bolts loose. However, my resourcefulness didnt escape me. I happened to have a wrench JUST long enough to fit the box end over one of the bolts on the drivers side, and the spanner to wedge in between the flex plate gears. Held it in perfectly while I cracked em right off.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

just don't let it fall on your head once the last bolt is out. lol

Tyblat

It was a near miss, I grabbed it with both hands, started to pull "oh this isnt that heavy."

..yeah, I was wrong, It slipped right off and out of my hands, missed my thumb on the ground by about half an inch if that.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

oh yeah it's heavy... hehe

Tyblat

Indeed. At least I didnt get ATF on me again.


I was looking into how to get the flexplate and counterweight off, I came across one of your posts while searching:

"go to the hardware store or find a bolt that fits the pitch of the flex plate mount holes and run it through until it contacts the rear stat gear, keep tightening the bolt and tap around the counterweight edge lightly with a hammer. be sure the 36mm flywheel nut is loose first of course. i just use a small impact gun to tighten the outer bolt and it pops right off without any fuss."

So, How exactly do I go about this? FSM just specifies to use the specific SST for that situation.

My plan is (Correct me if im missing steps here or going to be going about it incorrectly, please.

I. Zap that 54mm nut off with an impact gun.
II. Remove the six bolts on the flexplate
III. Remove flexplate

and after this I got nothing. Can you clarify a bit on your method?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

after that take one of the flex plate bolts to the hardware store and pick up a long 12X1.25mm(sorry but this is a guess on the threads, i may be incorrect) bolt that matches the ones you removed but about 3 times longer and threaded nearly the whole length.

now thread the large nut back onto the eccentric shaft a few threads and the smaller flex plate bolt through the old flex plate mounting hole(any will do). keep threading it and eventually you will feel some resistance. cinch it down a bit and the counterweight will likely just pop off, if not lightly tap the weight with a hammer or mallet around the outer edge. if it's still being a pain, turn the bolt 1/8 turn, rinse and repeat until it gives.

Tyblat

So hardware store, find bolt that essentially matches the factory flex plate bolts that is 12x1.25mm (if threads are correct), way longer, and threaded the whole way. replace flywheel nut so i dont get sent to hospital, and then thread the bolt i just bought at the hardware store into one of the flexplate bolt holes, and just keep tightening it until i get resistance, and off comes the counterweight?

I take it since its so long, when i start to feel resistance, the head of this long bolt wont be touching the counterweight, or will it?

And then proceed to do the hammer, 1/8 turn, hammer, until it gives?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yes, the bolt head should be long enough that you still have threads to tighten against.