ICemark, I would take it oone step further. IF they really wanted to make cars safer they would redeisgn and improve seat belts. Or add a HANS device! the one thing the airbags in theory help is to slow the whiplash of your head and neck when in a violent collision.

I think it was the head of Mercedes who recently said that there is only so much cars can be engineered to keep drivers safe. At some point people need to take responsibility for the way they drive.

 

Go NA. Here's my reasoning:

NA has more than enough power for a beginning driver. I don't care how much you have driven, you are 16.. you are a beginner driver. If you were 21, I would say the same. I still consider myself somewhat of a beginner at 28. GOOD driving is an acquired and learned skill that ONLY experience can teach.

As soon as you meld with your NA and understand how it drives, you'll be better prepared for the turbo. At that time, you can sell the NA and get yourself a TII.

 

agree, agree, agree. Ebay should be used to buy grand ma a new doll or to build a computer, not for cheesy initial D parts (not knocking ID i like that show too). second take a minuet to use the kelly blue book button that on that link, if you check the millage and such, youll see its only worth about 3.5k. third, cash talks. save up 3200$ go to the bank and get it in 100$ bills, put the money in his/her hand THEN tell him all you have is 3200$, i bet you he/she will turn over those keys. but make sure the money is in their hand before you tell them all you have is 3200$, its a cheap tactic but like i said cash talks, plus people like holding ben franks in their hand.

 

ive been driving my dads bmw x5 4.4 (almost like 285 HP or somethin) =]

also i agree on getting the car cheaper, and thats what i plan on doing. not only that but by the time i have the money, maybe itll already be cheaper to begin with...

once again, thanks guys

 

Whats your point? Are you trying to say you aren't a beginner driver?

 

Some facts that somehow usually distorted on internet forums:
1. The FC RX-7 is very safe, and was rated as one of the safer sports cars of its era.
2. The EPA rated gas mileage difference between the turbo and non-turbo is only 1 mpg.
3. As per the owner's manual, both the turbo and non-turbo are designed for 87 octane fuel with no more than 10% ethanol.
4. The insurance premium is usually exactly the same for a FC RX-7 coupe. It's the convertible and FD that usually cost more.

My own opinions:
1. The FC RX-7 is not safe if you cut up the bumper to install an intercooler, install cheapie lowering kits, install "racing" seats and/or belts improperly, or otherwise screw up a well-designed car.
2. If you want a turbocharged car then buy a Turbo II RX-7. Converting a non-turbo is a pain, and it costs more than the usual $500-800 difference between the two models. I preferred my non-turbo RX-7 for street driving and autocrossing, as my Turbo II felt a bit like a pig. However, I probably would not have sold my Turbo II if I liked drifting or drag racing. It may help if you try driving each to see how you like them.
3. Whatever you do, never buy an RX-7 with an automatic transmission. It is slow, the transmission is really expensive to fix, and it is difficult to convert to a manual transmission.

 

no im saying i know what its like to have power when you actually step on the throttle, its nothing like that with my moms tahoe,

and evil i was planning on getting a manual from the get go..

 

Please don't compare that 3ton minivan to our RX-7's.

My crappy NA S5: .057hp/lb
Your dads X5: .048hp/lb

 

Wait, micaheli you mean 'crappy' as in appearance or the engine is about to go?

 

I mean crappy as in low-performance, heavy, and slow.

 

The owner's manual will hopefully be in the glove box when you buy the car. It's amazing how many people never read it. I guess that's good news for the oil companies though.

I think what you mean is that you plan on getting a service manual. You can download one for free if you search the stickies in this forum, although I would recommend buying the rather expensive loose-leaf manual and wiring diagram if you plan on working on your car a lot. The Haynes manual is also good.

 

I'm little older than you (turned 17 in July) and I've had my FC a couple months now. It's an 88 GTU. 44k original miles, no problems except having to replace a tie rod end. It's my daily driver and I love it. If you can find something thats reliable then it'll make a fine daily driver. I don't beat on it, but I drive a bit spirited now and then (Parking lot sliding/drifting and 100+ on the Highway). The real test will be in winter (I livein Pennsylvania) so I'll see how that goes. I have plans for it, a TII swap but that won't be for at least a couple months or even a year. But I'll do an exhaust, intake, wheels... etc. in the mean time.


Anyway, my 2 cents. Good luck to ya

 

44K original miles? Wow, nice car. Shipping to 91768 for N/A block?

Also, you'd be arrested, fined, and impounded for a month minimum in CA.

 

3500 is kbb value for excellent condition which means mint paint, no rust, all perfect mechanically and electrically meaning good wiper switch headlight switch no broken interior pieces no leaks, good idle strong power and no 3800rpm hesitation.

However it appears as though this car youve found, is not that.

Give him nada value at most.

 

Is that your DD then? Because I am satisfied with my "Money Pit" as a DD, just not when my Slave Cylander Push Rod fails and I'm out of luck for a week. Although a turbo swap would be nice [my signature]

 

In the spring my friend david moore, idsigloo on the board, is selling his GXL- T2 swapped car with AGXs, racin beat exhaust and springs, polyurethane bushings, 30k on kahren ported and rebuilt S5 motor, FMIC, act street clutch, almost perfect interior with short shifter, s5 radio surround and shift boot/****. No rips in seats, haltec e6k and upgraded turbo.

I'd PM him since he is selling it for a very good price.

 

where does he live? im all the way out in little delaware...

 

Not sure how this applies to the thread.... PM if you want to chat.

 

I am 18 and going to college. I had a 1991 240sx and upgraded to a 1988 GTU (N/A). I think it is the best way to go. You get the benefits of the rotary, and get to know the car. It will take more abuse and neglect (they are very temperamental cars, its like having a really hot high maintainance girlfriend). If you take care of her, she will take care of you. I learned a lot from having the seven. It forces you to pay attention to things you wouldn't have to in other cars. I look at the temperature gauge and gas gauge a lot more than in my s13. Fixing things on it is going to be expensive if you dont have the resources to do your own work. The only thing I had the dealership do is find a coolant leak through pressure testing everything (not fun) and it cost me around 200. Like I said before, the sevens can be reliable cars, but they are 20 years old...things will go wrong. I had to replaced the starter and thermostat so far, but any 20 year old car will need constant upkeep. All in all, I recommend going N/A at first.

 

I agree with every part except the illusion that this statement creates. If you get an Rx7 and drive it how most all of us do, the fuel consumption will be far different between turbo and non-turbo models. The stock turbo may only move 15-20 lbs/min of air (I'm guessing there on actual flow numbers), but that will still require considerably more fuel.

On a stock TII, expect 15 mpg or so with normal driving. On the n/a models, expect closer to 20. I've done the drive like a granny thing and the best I could ever muster was 22 mpg on a long highway trip. The angle of your accelerator will directly influence the fuel mileage.

 

That would be abnormal driving. For normal driving, expect only 1mpg difference, as I stated earlier. For abnormal driving, yes, the Turbo II will suck more gas. I should hope that a person of reasonable intelligence would realize that it takes more gas to make 182-200bhp than it does to make 146-160bhp.

That is pretty close. The Turbo II will flow about 15-25 lbs/min of air in its power band, while the NA will flow about 10-20 lbs/min.

 

louisville ky

 

Humm..... I've gone through many 7s and My first one way an 85 gs. Simple car lots od parts in the junkyards most of the time and pretty much everything that breaks is fairly simple to repair. However the 12a doesn't offer much in the hp department for most people. I would say get an NA. Like it has been said these cars are getting older and alot of basic parts need repairing and it can get expensive. I've been stuck on the rotary for along time now and I know I will never get that money back but I have a decent job and dual income. SO when the T2 popped it went into the garage for a massive build and I bought a vert as a daily driver........NA is just better in my eyes for everyday driving and entry into the rotary world.

 

Right before I turned 16 I had my brother's old silver 85. Looking back, I wouldn't have changed a thing. I remember racing other kids and chirping third, something my Z28 barely did. This thing would not break 100mph either. It was a blast.


Here we are 10 years later and while looking for efficient hatchback (Civic, Festiva Suzuki Swift), I stumble upon a pretty 87 and couldn't pass it up. Looks great but alot of stuff to do, that I wouldn't have even checked when I was 16. Actually, all I ever did to it when 16 was wash it. Luckily dad could wrench pretty good and kept it going.

I eventually crashed it not long after it getting hundreds worth of service. That and my dad being pissed that I smoked got it sold to whoever.



Of course were 10yrs later and 7s are much rarer and if you find one it probably won't be as forgiving as mine was then. I read the first page and there is great advice and I strongly recommed a newer Civic for you cuz I know you are eager to drive and with the RX-7 you may not to drive as much as you like.


But if your mechanically inclined (unlike me back then, but a lil better now) then go ahead and invest your time and money into getting it roadworthy. Or get the Civic, change the oil and throw a system in the back, be done with it and ride .