FrostRacing

ok so i turn my key thinking it will start (i have spark and fuel pressure) just the starter spins then it catches and goes to 1k for no more than 2 seconds then shuts off, i took the injectors out and left them hooked up pointed in a safe direction and had some one turn it over. There was fuel coming from them so whats the deal? im suppose to have a j port but i dont see any changes to my runners on my motor and when it goes to 1k it sounds normal which pisses me off even further with guch, but any ways if it was ported on the inside would it start with the factory injectors and ecu ? Could it be a tps problem or even a low compression problem which i hope to god its not since i just got it rebuilt

The lesson i learned is do your own damn work or watch the person doing it like a ******* hawk because you never know whats really going on

David

harjms

Well if its a newly rebuilt engine...i do believe it will have low compression....as they always say you have to drive it for couple hundred or a thousand miles....?¿ all i know is that you have to let your engine's seals get set right....it takes time

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

If you have a "J port" then your gonna have a time starting it... You might have to push start it for all its worth.

FrostRacing

i would put some miles on it if it would start moving and not cut off on me, but i see where your coming from. I put some atf in and let it sit then i did a compression test i got 60psi on front and 65 on rear

FrostRacing

i dont think that lazy **** did the port. it will run for 1 to 2 seconds then shut down. it would not run at all if i needed to tow start it would it?

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

yes it will...that doesnt mean that its not gonna run....as far as the shutting off then something is wrong with the accessories air/fuel/spark...not the engine.

FrostRacing

what would cause it to shut off?

hawk 7

iTrader: (2)

Who did the rebuild? Have you talked to the rebuilder for suggestions on getting you engine running. Though if it is hard to initially start a J port I think the rebuilder should have given you advise up front.

FrostRacing

guch rebuilt it and ran to flordia i dont know if he even ported it just called me up said come get my car and he was gone

Templeswain

60psi on front and 65 on rear


Um, I have never done compression tests so I don't wanna sound like I know all about it.

But I do know that from what I have read here over the years is that 60 and 65 is low low low. People usually talk about getting to the 100's so not so sure that 65 is a good thing.

But then again maybe I don't know **** about that.

I only say this because I think It might be helpful to find out what other people's rebuilds compression is at. And then maybe its that you have crappy compression?

BigTone

All rotary engine will have low compression on start up. Try to reset your timing. On my last rebuild, the exact same thing was happening to me, I finally just reset my timing and it fired right up.

FrostRacing

i would go about doing that how? i have set my cas like 5 times and even replaced the ecu

2ndGen.rocket

what the hell is a J-port? and 60 65 compression is normal for a fresh rebuild on startup, it builds up.

White_FC

A 'J-Port' is basically a huge bride port that cuts WELL into the water jacket...

It sounds to me like maybe you have a vacume leak somewhere? possibly anyway, your using the stock ECU?

2ndGen.rocket

sounds healthy.....

HAILERS

1.When you hold the key to START....the fuel pump runs.

2.When the key is just to ON....the fuel pump does not and should not run.

3.When you hold the key to START and the engine starts up, and then you let go of the key and let it return to ON, the fuel pump continues to run, unlike step 2 above. Why??? Because there is a micro switch in the AFM that now makes a circuit to keep the fuel pump running. When the engine stops running, the flap in the afm returns to its closed positon and the micro switch circuit is now not made, therefore the pump does what???? Yes that's the answer.

Make sure your afm's plug is connected . If it is, try jumpering your fuel check connector and trying to start the car once more. Starts and remains running????? Then the switch in the afm is kaput.

Kahren

iTrader: (13)

make sur eu dont ahve a vacuum leak somwehre, check everything again.

SideWindeRx7

90 is normal average. Anything above that is really good. below 80 and the motor is usually getting tired. 60- the car wont start. But yeah, compression is always low on rebuilds. But it shouldnt be 60- ... more around 70

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

wrong if he hasnt even drove it then 60 is really good

HAILERS

FrostRacing......the fuel pump check connector is *near* the right front strut tower. Look around the pressure sensor area. The plug is yellow in color. Two sockets in it. It's not connected to anything. It'll be just hanging on the harness. It might be partially hidden by the Air filter. Do not jumper any other plug. It might have a black heat shrink tubing around it, but it'll be yellow in color on the plug. Just put a piece of wire b/t the two sockets. You should hear a clicking when you do that if the key is already to ON. When it's jumpered and the key is to ON you should be able to hear the fuel pump pumping. Put your ear to the fuel filler if you can't hear too well. Should be whirring.

FrostRacing

ok i will do it tomorrow hailers if all else fails i will rebuild it right. i will never let any one work on my car again unless i am there to watch anyway thanks for all yalls help

Thanks
David

Smoken'

iTrader: (1)

Chill out man, it dosn't sound like there is anything wrong with your motor, just needs a little tuning. Good luck....

Oh yeah, mine did this too. Check your timing again and make sure u have it in the right tooth. Thats what was wrong with mine.

mwatson184

You better not have a j port with the stock computer. That being said...

Hailers is right on the money. Either your afm is shot or you have a vacuum leak that is not letting the flapper open up. Check around the turbo inlet duct, it is a very common place to have a leak because a) they crack often and b) many times people don't make good connections at the turbo/afm.

Your motor is fine...60-65 may sound very low but your motor has never really run, so it sounds alright to me.

One more time...You better not have a J bridge with the stock computer. Good luck!

-Marques

FrostRacing

ok i jumped them and i could hear the fuel what do i do now do i keep it in there or take it out is there something i need to plug it into?

RotaryForce13B

I just helped a friend of mine rebuild and port his engine and the same thing happened to us. We took it for a spin and the car left us stranded down the road. We would try to start it and it would run for a second then kill as if something electrical was shutting it down. I must have spent two hours looking for something. Then their it was. If it would of been a snake I would of been laid out on the floor! The air duct to the turbo came off causing the air flow meter to get a bad reading and the computer was shutting it down. So we made a new bracket for his K&N air filter so it wouldnt stretch the air duct away from the turbo as much reconnected the air duct and then.......zooom zoooom it was running like a bat out of hell! You might check it out maybe it could be that simple for you too. Good Luck!