lowlude34

I’ve drop in a S4 j-spec turbo engine into my car and am having problems starting the car. It’s a turbo engine going into an already turbo II car, I bought the car as a shell only. I’ve gotten every connection connected, compression is 95 up front, about 80ish in the back. I’ve checked and did the trick with the CAS along with checking the resistant on the primary objects, mas, coils, etc.
Here’s my problem, when I tried starting the car, it won’t start, it won’t even chug like it wants to. When I check my spark plugs both front and trailing rotors, the leading plugs were clean, but when I pull the rear plugs, the trailing plug was soaked with gas/oil “premix” and the leading is somewhat moist or dry. Also there aren’t any signs of combustion in the rear rotor but the fronts look like they did. I try cleaning the plugs and starting it again numerous times, but still no luck.
Also I might note, I found that my tps has a flat spot in it, I try replacing it with another one, only to find out that it also has a flat spot. I did not recalibrate the tps when I put it back on. I thought that it would just give me some idling problems when I get it started. I was going to let the engine warm it up once it started, and then I would adjust it into the correct settings. Could that be part of problem why it doesn’t want to start?
Does anyone have any ideas? I’ve already tried searching the forums. I thought it might be my thermo water senor, and so it lead me to find that the connection wire had a short in it, so I patched it up. Could there be other shorts in my faulty wiring harness that is contributing into messing up my ignition timing or something?
I’m out of ideas, any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Here are the mods I’ve done

Removed Rat nest
Removed air pump along with other emission equipment
FMIC
Throttle body Mod
Removed Oil pump, premix
Crane’s Ignition Box
Rtec Chip mod
Added Additional Grounds
Ferio Electric Fan

fastest2ndgen

The fuel rails on the jspec motors flow backwards compared to the US models, fuel comes into the lower rail and exits through the upper rail on jSpec. If it is hooked up wrong it will not start or even try to start. Try that

SureShot

Hmm - front is dry, & rear is flooded, so you seem to have fuel pressure.
Is this a salvage motor? A fresh rebuild? Did it come from a running car? Has it been stored for a while?

You may have to get the injectors cleaned & tested.
In the meantime, swap the primary injectors to see if the front rotor floods.

Cranking RPM is a big factor. try spinning it with a jump from another car.

lowlude34

Yeah, I’ve already switch the direction of the fuel lines. I’m getting fuel.

I’ve swapped the engine in without doing anything to it. It passed compression, so I figure I’ll swap it in and see how well it does. It’s been sitting for a while now, maybe a month since I’ve gone back to working with it.

I forgot to note, that I got the injectors cleaned by RC Engineering, but I’ll try swapping the primary injectors. Just to make sure I’m swapping the correct one, which are the primary injectors? The ones on the lower or upper fuel rail?

SureShot

The primary fuel rail is the lower one.
Those injectors should be perfect if they have just been tested.

You got fuel. You got spark. It may just be cranking too slow.

lowlude34

Hum... I doubt it would be cranking too slow, but I could be wrong. I've just replaced the starter and battery. But I'll try recharging the battery again, since it's probably drained.

Thanks for the help.

lowlude34

I tried recharging the battery and tried to start it again, still no luck. Anyone have anyother ideas?

YearsOfDecay

just a fart in the wind... but have you made sure that the rear rotor is firing?? Ie pulled the plug wire off, hooked up a normal type spark plug to it, grounded it against the frame and turned the motor over to see if you got spark???

Also.. did you "zero" the timing by pulling out the CAS, lining up the timing mark on the pulley with the pointer and re-installing the CAS with the rotor in the correct position???

lowlude34

Yep, tested the wires and even bought new sparkplugs, they all spark normally.

Yeah, I've pulled and realigned the CAS with the crank pulley, still no luck.

I wonder if it could be the gas. The gas has been sitting for about a month now, premix with the ratio of 1 oz per gallon. I wonder if the gas has gone bad or the gas and oil has separated. I don't know which has less density to float. But do you think that could be it, or something completely different?

lowlude34

After pondering over the idea why only one of rotors seems to combust, I could only think of two things, compression or water thermo sensor. After doing the compression check with a normal piston compressor, it bounces around roughly 85 psi. I know that the piston compression gauge doesn’t really tell me the compression on the rotary. But is that enough compression on the rotor order to start the engine? Or do I need to do a rebuild?

Also I thought about the thermo sensor. I know if the wire connection is broken in the s4, which it was, the rear rotors will not combust. What I would like to know is what does it do when it goes bad or has a bad connection? Does it just cut fuel or does it do something completely else? Does it ever go bad, and if it does, how can you check it. Just read the resistant?

lowlude34

bump...

lowlude34

bump for the last time...

HAILERS

The water thermo sensor can't keep a car from starting. It defaults to a given value if disconnected. See the FSM if in doubt. Make sure the wires in the connector are not shorted to anything.

So you have spark. YOU said so. So disconnect the fuel pump at the pumps connector. Get some starter fluid from the store. Spray it into the airfilter assy. Try to start the car. If shouild go varrrooom for a moment. Never keep a engine running in this fashion. Only to see if it will start. Do this after you pull the lower plugs and spin the engine to clear any residual fuel out of the chambers, then reinstall the plugs and do the starter fluid part mentioned above.

Are the plug wires on right? The front coil assy's wires go to the bottom sparkplugs. Any way you want. The Trail go from the most fwd wire to the top front sparkplug.

Restabbed the cas? When you did, did you take the cover off the cas to make sure the *rotor* in the cas stayed in alignment with the stationary parts on the body of the cas after you stabbed the cas?

Another thing. PUll the return line off the fuel feed lines and put it in a container. Jumper the Fuel Pump Check Connector and put the key to ON. Fuel should flow from the ENGINE side of where the return line connects.