Problems with a 1990 RX7
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Problems with a 1990 RX7
So I went looking at a RX7 down the road and the guy wants to sell it for $900 but he thinks he blew the computer when he tried putting in a turbo. He said it starts and runs, but it idles high, low, high, low and then dies. My dad said it is possibly the Throttle posistion sensor and he said they are cheaper than a comp. The guy has the entire turbo kit sitting in his backseat and will include it.
So I was just curious on your thoughts:
1. good or bad deal?
2. whats the problem?
3. Is it worth fixing?
4. How much is it going to cost me?
Thanks,
Will
So I was just curious on your thoughts:
1. good or bad deal?
2. whats the problem?
3. Is it worth fixing?
4. How much is it going to cost me?
Thanks,
Will
#2
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You'd need more in depth info to figure out exactly what the problem would be. If he tried to turbo an NA motor, he could have done any number of things to mess it up. You need to consider a few things first.
1. Did he put all the NA parts back on after he failed at his turbo attempt, or are you going to get stuck taking a crash-course with the manual?
2. Is the lower intake manifold in good shape, or did he permanently alter it when the ACV and aux port actuators/sleeves were removed?
3. Find out exactly what he did to the injector setup to get 550cc injectors running on the NA harness. If he botched this, it could have fried some things.
4. How's the rest of the car? If it's not in good shape, the engine trouble will just be the start of a money pit.
1. Did he put all the NA parts back on after he failed at his turbo attempt, or are you going to get stuck taking a crash-course with the manual?
2. Is the lower intake manifold in good shape, or did he permanently alter it when the ACV and aux port actuators/sleeves were removed?
3. Find out exactly what he did to the injector setup to get 550cc injectors running on the NA harness. If he botched this, it could have fried some things.
4. How's the rest of the car? If it's not in good shape, the engine trouble will just be the start of a money pit.
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Well I'm going to go look at the car in a little bit. the guy said it needs a dash, passenger vent, and it was jsut painted. It's also a two seater. Thanks for the info rocket, I think I'll right that stuff down and check the car once I get there.
The exhaust seemed new but had a crack or break somewhere, it idled at 2200 for a while then died. Seems it was leaking AF. Car is in near perfect condition otherwise. I lowered the guy to 750
The exhaust seemed new but had a crack or break somewhere, it idled at 2200 for a while then died. Seems it was leaking AF. Car is in near perfect condition otherwise. I lowered the guy to 750
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 04-01-08 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
#5
It's an S5, the n/a harness works fine on the turbo motor if its also an S5.
Car sounds like an awesome deal, find a local rotary tuner to look at it and give you some pointers.
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An S5? But how much are PCM's so I can put the turbo back in becuase The guy who previously owned the car took the manifold and everything off trying to wire the turbo into the stock harness. The dealer put it back together though. I also found two donor cars hit in the rear, they are both n/a's ones a 90 and the other is a 91. It was also starting to smoke but that could be from a number of things, cracked intake, no antifreeze, crack in the block, or just from sitting. It turned over great though, i just had to pump the gas a little. But I still need to know before I buy it, what the problem was of why it idled at 2200 and then died in a couple minutes.
Is it possible that when the guy opened up the injectors for the turbo, they are giving too much fuel and its making it idle at 2200 and then die once the RPM's drop because its giving too much fuel and it just floods and kills itself?
Is it possible that when the guy opened up the injectors for the turbo, they are giving too much fuel and its making it idle at 2200 and then die once the RPM's drop because its giving too much fuel and it just floods and kills itself?
Last edited by Aaron Cake; 04-01-08 at 10:15 AM. Reason: Merge two posts
#7
s4 = 86-88 rx7s
s5= 89-91 rx7s
Turbo ECUs on this board can run from $50-200, just keep an eye out on the classifieds. The car will run on a N/A ecu as well but its not recommended.
Rotary engines do not have a "block" to crack. Coolant seals are usually the culpret on a coolant leak inside the engine.
It is really impossible to tell what is causing the problem with out knowing more about what all the previous owner has done to the swapped engine. Are all the emissions removed? Take some pictures of the engine bay close up around it and maybe someone on here can point some things out that might be causing it.
s5= 89-91 rx7s
Turbo ECUs on this board can run from $50-200, just keep an eye out on the classifieds. The car will run on a N/A ecu as well but its not recommended.
Rotary engines do not have a "block" to crack. Coolant seals are usually the culpret on a coolant leak inside the engine.
It is really impossible to tell what is causing the problem with out knowing more about what all the previous owner has done to the swapped engine. Are all the emissions removed? Take some pictures of the engine bay close up around it and maybe someone on here can point some things out that might be causing it.
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s4 = 86-88 rx7s
s5= 89-91 rx7s
Turbo ECUs on this board can run from $50-200, just keep an eye out on the classifieds. The car will run on a N/A ecu as well but its not recommended.
Rotary engines do not have a "block" to crack. Coolant seals are usually the culpret on a coolant leak inside the engine.
It is really impossible to tell what is causing the problem with out knowing more about what all the previous owner has done to the swapped engine. Are all the emissions removed? Take some pictures of the engine bay close up around it and maybe someone on here can point some things out that might be causing it.
s5= 89-91 rx7s
Turbo ECUs on this board can run from $50-200, just keep an eye out on the classifieds. The car will run on a N/A ecu as well but its not recommended.
Rotary engines do not have a "block" to crack. Coolant seals are usually the culpret on a coolant leak inside the engine.
It is really impossible to tell what is causing the problem with out knowing more about what all the previous owner has done to the swapped engine. Are all the emissions removed? Take some pictures of the engine bay close up around it and maybe someone on here can point some things out that might be causing it.
Well The biggest thing I am worried about is the VIN number is half way off on the dash. But it is possible for the engine to be cracked but hopefully its not. Still need to figure out the idle problem though.,,
Thanks,
Will
#10
i also have an erratic idle prob. the emmisions were removed and there is block OFF plates in place. i was wondering... If the idle problem is due to the block off plates having a leak, or is it a common problem with the coolant leak from the seals inside the engine causing the idle to bounce back and fourth at idle?
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