A problem I cannot solve..89 FC
03-06-13, 06:22 PM
#27
I see. Maybe im not understanding clearly. does the fact i only get a reading on my Multimeter When i put the lead on the positive terminal as opposed to negative insist that its grounded somewhere?
Id imaginethe WHITE/RED is a power wire so it would give a reading if i use the NEG terminal. but if its reading on POS Term only then would that not mean the WHITE/RED currently is a dead wire(non powered)
Id imaginethe WHITE/RED is a power wire so it would give a reading if i use the NEG terminal. but if its reading on POS Term only then would that not mean the WHITE/RED currently is a dead wire(non powered)
03-06-13, 06:37 PM
#28
I see. Maybe im not understanding clearly. does the fact i only get a reading on my Multimeter When i put the lead on the positive terminal as opposed to negative insist that its grounded somewhere?
Id imaginethe WHITE/RED is a power wire so it would give a reading if i use the NEG terminal. but if its reading on POS Term only then would that not mean the WHITE/RED currently is a dead wire(non powered)
Id imaginethe WHITE/RED is a power wire so it would give a reading if i use the NEG terminal. but if its reading on POS Term only then would that not mean the WHITE/RED currently is a dead wire(non powered)
03-06-13, 06:42 PM
#29
Yes it would, but the fuse should blow if that were the case. You need to investigate the W/R more closely. Its length is rather short as it runs to the other fusebox. One thing you could do is wiggle the wire and see if that changes the voltage reading from 0 to 12 or so volts. Getting back to the wire itself, once you believe you have identified the wire inside the cabin you can do a continuity test to verify your findings and then perform an ohm test to verify if the wire is grounding out if you chose to do so.
03-06-13, 07:38 PM
#31
Couldnt get the reading to fluctuate at all and wasnt able to do much else because of the rain.
my father in law suggested taking a long jumper wire from the positive terminal to one o the fuses in the car. i pulled the illumination fuse and put the wire on the power side and we got the parking and brake lights back.
i still need to check and probe the WHITE/RED for any breaks. im starting to feel better knowing what to look for and understandin the issue more.
BTN definition agreed lol
my father in law suggested taking a long jumper wire from the positive terminal to one o the fuses in the car. i pulled the illumination fuse and put the wire on the power side and we got the parking and brake lights back.
i still need to check and probe the WHITE/RED for any breaks. im starting to feel better knowing what to look for and understandin the issue more.
BTN definition agreed lol
03-07-13, 03:47 PM
#32
alright i have some confusing info.
i did a continuity test with the wire all the way to where it goes into the back of the fuse box and its good..for laughs i pulled the illum fuse again and did a continuity test and it makes it all the way from the fuse in the bay to the illum fuse. wth is going on?
but if i take a wire directly from the positive term on battery to power that fuse slot the lights work again??
i did a continuity test with the wire all the way to where it goes into the back of the fuse box and its good..for laughs i pulled the illum fuse again and did a continuity test and it makes it all the way from the fuse in the bay to the illum fuse. wth is going on?
but if i take a wire directly from the positive term on battery to power that fuse slot the lights work again??
Last edited by savanna.seven; 03-07-13 at 03:55 PM.
03-07-13, 06:37 PM
#33
alright i have some confusing info.
i did a continuity test with the wire all the way to where it goes into the back of the fuse box and its good..for laughs i pulled the illum fuse again and did a continuity test and it makes it all the way from the fuse in the bay to the illum fuse. wth is going on?
but if i take a wire directly from the positive term on battery to power that fuse slot the lights work again??
i did a continuity test with the wire all the way to where it goes into the back of the fuse box and its good..for laughs i pulled the illum fuse again and did a continuity test and it makes it all the way from the fuse in the bay to the illum fuse. wth is going on?
but if i take a wire directly from the positive term on battery to power that fuse slot the lights work again??
03-07-13, 07:34 PM
#34
The BTN fuse powers certain fuses in the interior fusebox thus it would be reasonable to believe that there would be a direct link from the wire connecting to the BTN fuse and the fuse slot in the interior fusebox related to the ABS, Stop, Room, Antenna, Hazard and Illumination fuse. Now if you manually bridge the positive battery terminal to the Illumination fuse slot and it causes those lights to work then apparently you need to do more testing on the W/R wire besides a continuity test. That test just verified whether you were working on the correct wire. Now you need to at least do an ohm test (no key necessary) to see if the wire is grounding out.
So i did the resistance test to the wire and seems fine. Tested 0.1 Ohms. Even moved the probe to the fuse slot for giggles, still the same reading. Im not too great with wiring but I took a look at the FSM on Pages T-13 and T14 seeing what all is controlled, im coming to an idea..idk if its correct thinking or not but..
The BTN fuse includes "Light switch" in its description. Now if thats the case then I would assume the WHITE/RED is powering considering my light switch turns my headlights on and highbeams, but parking lights dont work so maybe that is what it means by "light switch"? The HEAD 30A fuse governs the headlight aswell so maybe that is why only the headlights work.
Could it maybe be the ignition switch not triggering the ACC or Power?
EDIT
So i took a test light and left the white/red plugged into the fuse block in the engine bay and probed it. No light..
Last edited by savanna.seven; 03-07-13 at 07:42 PM.
03-07-13, 07:45 PM
#35
Ok. So i did the resistance test to the wire and seems fine. Tested 0.1 Ohms. Even moved the probe to the fuse slot for giggles, still the same reading.
Im not too great with wiring but I took a look at the FSM on Pages T-13 and T14 seeing what all is controlled, im coming to an idea..idk if its correct thinking or not but..
The BTN fuse includes "Light switch" in its description. Now if thats the case then I would assume the WHITE/RED is powering considering my light switch turns my headlights on and highbeams, but parking lights dont work so maybe that is what it means by "light switch"? The HEAD 30A fuse governs the headlight aswell so maybe that is why only the headlights work.
Could it maybe be the ignition switch not triggering the ACC or Power?
So i did the resistance test to the wire and seems fine. Tested 0.1 Ohms. Even moved the probe to the fuse slot for giggles, still the same reading. Im not too great with wiring but I took a look at the FSM on Pages T-13 and T14 seeing what all is controlled, im coming to an idea..idk if its correct thinking or not but..
The BTN fuse includes "Light switch" in its description. Now if thats the case then I would assume the WHITE/RED is powering considering my light switch turns my headlights on and highbeams, but parking lights dont work so maybe that is what it means by "light switch"? The HEAD 30A fuse governs the headlight aswell so maybe that is why only the headlights work.
Could it maybe be the ignition switch not triggering the ACC or Power?
The fuses powered by the BTN fuse bypass the Ignition Switch. Make sense as they work w/no key necessary!!!!!!!!! So, this switch is not your problem.
Have you thought of jumpering the White Red wire to the battery very briefly just to see if something now works that previously did not.
Last edited by satch; 03-07-13 at 07:50 PM.
03-07-13, 07:49 PM
#36
I see. I apologize with all the back and forth. Im slowly grasping the concept of how this works. Trying to map it out in my head. So i took the test light to the sides of the fuse block to make sure its working and it lights. I then proceeded to pull all fuses and check power which all the left prongs have power. The BTN also shows its receiving power. If this is so, then why does probing the wire not illuminate the test light??
03-07-13, 07:57 PM
#37
I see. I apologize with all the back and forth. Im slowly grasping the concept of how this works. Trying to map it out in my head. So i took the test light to the sides of the fuse block to make sure its working and it lights. I then proceeded to pull all fuses and check power which all the left prongs have power. The BTN also shows its receiving power. If this is so, then why does probing the wire not illuminate the test light??
03-07-13, 08:03 PM
#38
yea I know one side is powered and the other is not. Im measuring the prong closest to the front of the car. It has power as the other prong does not. So with the fuse in it should complete the circuit. Now even with the fuse plugged in my test light doesn't register anything on the WHITE/RED when probed.
03-07-13, 08:08 PM
#39
yea I know one side is powered and the other is not. Im measuring the prong closest to the front of the car. It has power as the other prong does not. So with the fuse in it should complete the circuit. Now even with the fuse plugged in my test light doesn't register anything on the WHITE/RED when probed.
And when you probed the W/R wire it was connected to the BTN fuse?
Last edited by satch; 03-07-13 at 08:11 PM.
03-07-13, 08:23 PM
#40
Yea the W/R is plugged into the BTN when im probing. I have the multi meter as well. I just figured the light would be a fast yes or no as far as power goes lol.
03-07-13, 11:50 PM
#47
i ran outta light but pulled the fuse block to look at it closer while eating dinner. its confusing seeing how its essentially a long metal plate tht connects all of the fuses to the power wires that are bolted to it. i dont understand how the head fuse is getting power but the btn is not if its before the head. arghh! im going to move the wore to the unused slot tomorrow and see how it goes.
as for the grounds. what ground would be a culprit? the only one im aware of is the ground behind the dash right behind the cluster.
as for the grounds. what ground would be a culprit? the only one im aware of is the ground behind the dash right behind the cluster.
03-08-13, 12:34 AM
#49
