Problem with Fuel cut switch heating
07-09-04, 09:08 PM
#1
Problem with Fuel cut switch heating
Hey guys I've had a fuel cut switch on my car for about 4 months now. The wire that goes to the relay from the switch is getting hot at every connection I made in the wire. The wire that goes from the car to the switch is all fine stays cold and everything. What happend is it was getting so hot that it started melting the switch and broke it. Mostly all the heat is closer to the relay connections. Then it gets kinda hot by the switch... ONLY that one wire, the other wire is all fine. I am so stumped I dont know what to do.
07-10-04, 10:27 AM
#4
If only one side is hot, double check the connection on that side. A *gasp* bad solder joint or such (not that we all know about those or anything) would get hot if the resistance were high.
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
07-10-04, 10:48 AM
#5
Lives on the Forum
If you've gone for 4 months with it now without blowing a fuse, it's not shorted...
It's a bad electrical connection, that's all...If it's soldered, it's a bad solder connection, acting like a resistor, which will heat up...
Heating up so much that it's melting wiring though? Hmmm...
The really scary thing here is not that you have a bad connection, it's that you have a bad connection in your FUEL PUMP circuit. If anything on our cars needs all the voltage it can possibly get, it's the fuel pump...
BTW, I'm going to say this again for those that trust that I know what I'm talking about- there is no reason to solder wiring connections on our cars, it's a PITA to do right on stranded copper wire, and butt (or window) splices will do a better job with electrical conductivity at the connections. If these splices are good enough for the airline industry, why aren't they good enough for your car?
I have absolutely zero solder connections on my wiring (that I have done), but numerous butt splices, and "handshake" splices- including my TPS connections, and have absolutely NO electrical problems with my car- coincidence? You be the judge...
Once you've crimped a splice on the wiring, do a "pull check", if the wire stays put, it's a good connection...
Or do you guys just like sniffing solder flux fumes?
It's a bad electrical connection, that's all...If it's soldered, it's a bad solder connection, acting like a resistor, which will heat up...
Heating up so much that it's melting wiring though? Hmmm...
The really scary thing here is not that you have a bad connection, it's that you have a bad connection in your FUEL PUMP circuit. If anything on our cars needs all the voltage it can possibly get, it's the fuel pump...
BTW, I'm going to say this again for those that trust that I know what I'm talking about- there is no reason to solder wiring connections on our cars, it's a PITA to do right on stranded copper wire, and butt (or window) splices will do a better job with electrical conductivity at the connections. If these splices are good enough for the airline industry, why aren't they good enough for your car?
I have absolutely zero solder connections on my wiring (that I have done), but numerous butt splices, and "handshake" splices- including my TPS connections, and have absolutely NO electrical problems with my car- coincidence? You be the judge...
Once you've crimped a splice on the wiring, do a "pull check", if the wire stays put, it's a good connection...
Or do you guys just like sniffing solder flux fumes?
07-10-04, 11:40 AM
#7
Lives on the Forum
Lol, that's what I'm trying to say, Ted...Soldering correctly is an art, and I can say with confidence I think we have a lot of bad solder joints running around on our cars, wouldn't you agree?
Hell, even the manufacturer screwed some up, no?
Hell, even the manufacturer screwed some up, no?
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07-10-04, 01:15 PM
#8
Nah I didnt solder it, I used those female and male connectors. But the wierd thing is that its only getting on the wire which leads to the relay from the switch. The other wire is wired exactly the same with same connectors in the same places and its not having problems. Could it be that I crimped in part of the insolation on the wire wich is causing it to heat up like that?
07-10-04, 03:09 PM
#10
The thing is yesterday I got stuck at a light because the switch just kinda melted and lost connection. So to get back home I just put a jumper wire instead of the switch and the connections on that one side were still getting hot.
Update: I just cut that old wire off and put in a new 14 gauge wire and soldered it in. I let it idle for about 10min and wasnt getting hot, so im not sure yet but so far so good. My fuel pump did sound louder cuz I have a walbro, and the SAFC didnt impact the idle as much when I was leaning it out.
Update: I just cut that old wire off and put in a new 14 gauge wire and soldered it in. I let it idle for about 10min and wasnt getting hot, so im not sure yet but so far so good. My fuel pump did sound louder cuz I have a walbro, and the SAFC didnt impact the idle as much when I was leaning it out.
07-12-04, 10:12 AM
#15
Lives on the Forum
Used the wrong switch for the application...
You guys gotta watch out for these cheap-*** switches in Wal-mart or the auto parts stores. You get what you pay for, and have to have ratings beyond the intended use of the switch...
Glad you got her figured out, Net Seven...
You guys gotta watch out for these cheap-*** switches in Wal-mart or the auto parts stores. You get what you pay for, and have to have ratings beyond the intended use of the switch...
Glad you got her figured out, Net Seven...
07-12-04, 07:30 PM
#17
Ok well now the other side that I didnt replace is getting hot only at the connection between the stock car black wire and the new wire that goes to the switch. Switch is not getting hot though. Just that area which didnt get hot before. Is it the wire or something? It's 16 gauge speaker wire from radio shack.
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