Primary injectors not working at all!!!!
#1
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Primary injectors not working at all!!!!
Guys my car did it again!!!! The primary injectors are not working, is there a fuse? I pulled the fuel line out and it pulsates when the ignition goes. Is it suposed to go steady all the time like aftermarket fuel pumps or is it suposed to work only when the ignition is turning?
#2
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The injectors all receive 12V from the same circuit. Check to see they have 12V on the positive wire (black with yellow stripe) when the ignition’s on. If they do, the ECU isn’t firing them for some reason. If they don’t, check the fuses under the hood.
I don’t know your history, but you might want to check the airflow meter and crank angle sensor. If the ECU receives no airflow or rpm signals it won’t fire the injectors.
I don’t know your history, but you might want to check the airflow meter and crank angle sensor. If the ECU receives no airflow or rpm signals it won’t fire the injectors.
#4
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It was working perfectly, I got home then when I tried to start it after like 30 mins to go to the store It died at idle. I spray some starting fluid into the afm and it starts but dies as soon as it burns all the starting fluid, plus it makes the infamous LEAN cracking noise. So I left it alone, I quickly checked for compression and everything is fine. I will also check for clogged injectors.
#6
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The fuel pump works two ways. One is anytime the key is turned to START, and HELD there. The other way is when the engine actually does start and pull the flapper door inside the afm to any position but closed. It makes a micro switch which in turn makes the fuel pump circuit.
The third way is to jumper the fuel jump connector next to your r/h strut tower. Its yellow in color and two pronged. That bypasses the afm and only requires the key to be in the ON position. The pump runs all the time in this scenario.
NZ asked you if you have 12v at the fuel injector plugs. Do you. He can help you further if you can confirm the 12v.
Also, are all the fuses in the crew compartment good? Especially the third one over from your left on the forth row from the bottom.
What year is this car and is it turbo or N/A?
The third way is to jumper the fuel jump connector next to your r/h strut tower. Its yellow in color and two pronged. That bypasses the afm and only requires the key to be in the ON position. The pump runs all the time in this scenario.
NZ asked you if you have 12v at the fuel injector plugs. Do you. He can help you further if you can confirm the 12v.
Also, are all the fuses in the crew compartment good? Especially the third one over from your left on the forth row from the bottom.
What year is this car and is it turbo or N/A?
#7
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I think that I am gonna have to replace the plugs or something. I messed around with the injector plugs, checked for current and there was current after shaking the plug on the gas pedal (black and yellow wires). It started and after I hit the gas a little and let go It died again. There is something fishy here any Ideas?
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#9
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The problem is that they seem to come loose after a couple of drives. I am about to install a Jay-Tec intake manifold a Holley Marine carb and run my turbo at 15 psi like everybody else here does without any trouble at all...
#11
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Never mind that was pure coincidence ignore the plug on the gas pedal ****. LOL I sorted the problem, I need new injector plugs mine are broken and come loose. If that happens at 90MPH at 8PSI I'm fucked my car will spit the apex seals aout of the exhaust, I gotta fix this problem tomorrow!!!! Any Ideas where I can buy replacement harness plugs for the injrctors?
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