michintom_e

I been searching for a RX-7 FC for sometime now. I found one but the price seems kinda of high.
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...000&cardist=33

Here is the link to the page. The owner wants $2900 and its a clean title N/A FC.
Chassis has 164k miles but the motor was rebuilt at 140k.
I might go check out the car and test drive it tomorrow.
What would be a reasonable price?
The car seems very clean inside and out.

Thanks in advance!

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

offer 1600... except 2800 if it won't come down much, thats a really nice looking car, but lookin for broken vents/ dirty engine/engine bay, and things missing or broken to get the price down.

michintom_e

Nothing seems to be really broken. Everything is clean on this car. I'll offer him $1600 first and $2000 max.
Any thing I should pay attention to while test driving or checking out the car?

RETed

http://www.kbb.com/
Most FC owners think their cars are made of gold.
Call it the InitialD + FnF effect...


-Ted

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Maybe so, but a lot of RX7s sell for way below blue book. An '88 (applet won't let you choose '86) SE with that mileage comes up as $3200 - $3700 for good to excellent condition. People seem to love the idea that these cars could become valueable collector's cars, but that will never happen so long as the community lowballs anyone selling one. I'm all for getting the best price, but there's a fine line there.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Go over to the guy..seem Half interested..(even though you REALLY want it..lol)..find some trivial stuff with it..say that you Know the price of that Part to replace...Ask him For a Bottom line price..DON"T Offer any Price.Ask HIM for a BOTTOM LINE price.(you can sometimes SCREW yourself out of money..The guy may settle for less that what you Blab out to him!)..Say you are going to Check out "another car" right after THIS one..go For coffee,get a sandwich,whatever,,but Let say an Hour go by..let him Ponder..Call him.say the other car has Better this and that,But you'd rather deal "locally,Or off him,to give him a break....Hook HIM UP:Offer a BIT less,and NOW say that you can have the money Pronto...Deal DONE..and it IS effective..

Evil Aviator

That car looks REALLY nice, and a recently-rebuilt engine is a huge plus. I bet that it also has good tires, brakes, weather seals, etc. If it looks as good in person, I would easily pay $2,500 for that car, and would definitely consider paying the full asking price. Remember, most of the $1,500 cars on this forum do not have a rebuilt engine, which costs about $2,200.

See Aaron Cake's buyer's guide in the FAQ. On the test drive, check the idle to see if it is stable (small burbling is normal but the engine should not even be close to dying) when the engine is cold AND when it is warm, check for a bumping sound in the rear end when the car accelerates or decelerates, check the rearview mirror for white or gray puffs of smoke coming out of the exhaust as you shift, and check for driveshaft vibration as the car's speed increases.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

i would never pay more then 1300 for a n/a.
KBB rated my car in fair condition at 2600.....that pos isnt even worth 2600 lol.

Evil Aviator

Er, what exactly about that car makes it a POS? That is one of the best examples I have seen on this forum in the last few years, and it is priced about $800 below Blue Book.

Let me know if it drives nicely. If you are not interested in it, I am.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

I also agree that is a nice looking car and the price in not that bad, in Texas that is actually a pretty decent deal. espically for that nice of a car.

Now about the bolded line above, what DOES that mean? I have that happen in my car but could not figure out what it was.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

I meant my car as the pos

A bumping or clanking sound from the rear end means that the subframe bushingsthat holds the diff are probably bad.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Thumping noise is a bad front diff mount.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Most likely a worn diff mount.

Edit: should have refreshed.

Texas_Ace

iTrader: (18)

Ok, one more question then end of hijack

I see, well since i will be doing a 5 lug swap in the next few weeks along with an LSD, what bushings should i replace while i am in there? and where do i get them?

whitelightnin

when looking for a good deal and asking opinions I would just relay the information about the car,maybe a pic. If you actually post a link to the car for sale someone else might ****** it up?

If you put in the work searching and finding it, you should get first dibs at buying it. Just my .02$

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

If you want to replace the suspension bushings I would use delrin in the front and stock rear bushings. The reason for the stock rears is if your car is excessively lowered with delrin bushings the control arms will bind before you can remove all the negative camber. Feel free to use whatever subframe bushings you want and install a pinion snubber while your back there.

michintom_e

Alright guys, Thanks for the help!
I'm going to go test drive the car tomorrow.

foxman

looks clean, good luck, you should be able to get him to come down.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

****, just from the pics alone, that car looks like it's worth around 2,600 easy.

Clean as ****, no dents and cali car so no rusted together ****! I would pay him right away and not even bother with haggling.

I got my vert for $1000. SO not worth it and it's taking me $$$ to get it into shape, which might never be as good as that car. I so far have $3200 total and it's still a pos compared to that FC.

Plus, no matter what people say, S4 chassis is better!