prepping a jspec before putting it in...
#26
Engine, Not Motor
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Compression test will easily verify the condition of all the seals in the engine besides the oil control rings. And you can check the plugs to get a good idea on their condition. Those of use who KNOW HOW to inspect an engine can get a good idea on the condition of the engine before installing it.
What some people seem to forget is that a rebuild is going to add $1000 or more on top of the purchase price of the J-spec. That more then doubles the $800 average cost of a J-spec, and many people don't want to pay it. Especially when you consider that most J-specs are in decent shape if you buy from a reputable dealer.
It's an option. If you have the time and money, and want to mod the engine past the basics, then by all means tear it apart and rebuild.
If you are just looking for a quick drop-in replacement and don't care about making high HP numbers, then just plop it in and go. Many people do this and get along fine for years.
What some people seem to forget is that a rebuild is going to add $1000 or more on top of the purchase price of the J-spec. That more then doubles the $800 average cost of a J-spec, and many people don't want to pay it. Especially when you consider that most J-specs are in decent shape if you buy from a reputable dealer.
It's an option. If you have the time and money, and want to mod the engine past the basics, then by all means tear it apart and rebuild.
If you are just looking for a quick drop-in replacement and don't care about making high HP numbers, then just plop it in and go. Many people do this and get along fine for years.
#27
clean that nasty oil and grease that dried up with gasoline and elbow grease then afterwords you can spray some degreaser for the final touch and rinse away.
make sure you use new gasket and/or good quality sealeant to prevent leaks.
make sure you use new gasket and/or good quality sealeant to prevent leaks.
#28
Yes, that is my car
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Ahmen Aaron, I am one of the $800 drop in guys, most people are, you can look at plugs and tell a world of info if you know what to look for. Unless the plugs are new (in a Jspec pull they should be the same old ones when you get it), you can see the history of high speed glazing, oil seal failure (even slight failure), coolant seal leakage, rich/lean, etc. I say check thoroughly and drop in for most of us.
Just my .02
Just my .02
#29
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Originally posted by xWrathChildx
Thanks JonE quest. Where'd you get yours from? I got mine from fc3s.org. Ya, I'm pretty excited, but I'm not sure if Im actually gonna paint the engine bay, just clean it up real nice like. When I get this darn thing running and such, I'll post pictures. *fingers crossed* I hope to have it on the street as my new daily driver by mid-end of february. All I gotta buy now is a cai and 3" turbo back corksport exhaust.
Logan
Thanks JonE quest. Where'd you get yours from? I got mine from fc3s.org. Ya, I'm pretty excited, but I'm not sure if Im actually gonna paint the engine bay, just clean it up real nice like. When I get this darn thing running and such, I'll post pictures. *fingers crossed* I hope to have it on the street as my new daily driver by mid-end of february. All I gotta buy now is a cai and 3" turbo back corksport exhaust.
Logan
#30
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I bought a JDM B16 for my old civic hatch, and it ran perfect from the day I got it. I didn't have to do anything to it. But I guess rotarys are a little touchier than piston engines if they're sitting for awhile sometimes. When it's time for me to go turbo, I'm going to do the jspec thing again.
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