sTaLa

I unstored my car and since that moment my oil pressure gauge reads something like 10 kg/cm² (the numbers go from 2 to 8). A t begining it read 2 kg/cm² at idle, but now it is always at the end of the gauge.

I changed my oil, nothing. I tried to remove the oil pressure sending unit (pic, it isunder the oil filter) to place an aftermarket gauge (maybe the problem is only the sensor), but a key simply doesn't go there without removing other sensors.

The fact is that the car still runs great! A guy at the job told me to wait, that it was dirty due to the storage and it'd come back to normal after a while.

I'm going crazy with this thing, I don't want to blow anything! A little help would be really appreciated guys.

Thanks

sTaLa

Does anyone have any idea?

sTaLa

If no one of you have any idea of what is my problem's source, I don't know where I'll get the information.

Please someone, give me a hint of what's the matter with my car.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

i wouldnt trust anything with the stock oil pressure sender. its just too crappy.

sTaLa

So you tell me I should not worry about it and drive my car like normal?
Cause, before the storage, the gauge worked well.

Black91n/a

What did you do to the car between the time when the guage was reading low and when it started reading high? That will maybe help people suggest courses of action to remedy the problem.

sTaLa

I "unstored" it, that's all! I was very gentle with it and it begun to read very high. At first, it read past 8 kg/cm² (when I say past, I mean the needle point almost at 12 o'clock) only when I pressed the gas pedal, it read 2 kg/cm² (30 psi) at idle. But now, it is at high pressure all the time. I estimate it at 10 kg/cm² (140 psi); if there was a number where the needle is, it would be 10.
But again, it begun all of a sudden. I never reached past 4k rpm and was gentle with the 7 since it past a long time without moving.

turboeric

It sounds like the gauge is pegged, which suggests you have a short somewhere. Most gauges work via variable resistance, and go to full deflection when no resistance is in place (i.e. the sender goes to ground). Unplug the sender - does the gauge go to zero? With the car off, check to see if you have a ground from the sender electrical connection to anywhere else on the car. If you have a ground there with no oil pressure, then your sender is shot.

I'd strongly suspect the sender. Don't assume an aftermarket sender will be compatible with your gauge (i.e. you may not get accurate readings) Good luck.

sTaLa

I bought a mechanical aftermarket gauge for 20$ that I plug directly instead of oil pressure sendig unit (doesn't use electrical connections except for the lighting). I'll plug it tomorrow and see what reading it gives me. I really hope it's nothing but the sender.

sTaLa

I thought about it, and it means that the needle should go to full when I turn the key on ACC. But the needle went at 85 psi, on ACC and without the engine running.

On ACC, if everyting was normal,the needle should be at 0 psi and if the resistance was blown, it should be at full right? But it is at 6psi! I really don't get it.

Anyway, I assume I'll really get my answer when I'll plug that mechanical gauge.

And any income would be greatly appreciated.

Alex

Black91n/a

It definetely sounds like an electrical issue, probably with the sensor, or maybe with the guage.

turboeric

Can't help you with the income, but I'd still suspect the sender. If you replace the sender and the problem persists, then its likely the gauge, so its off to the wreckers to find a used dash cluster. If not that, then there's a small likelihood of a wiring problem, with a rubbed through wire providing a partial ground.

Have you checked the resistance between the electrical connector on the sender and ground? It should be infinite (i.e. no continuity). The manual states that you should have the following resistances throught the sender for various gauge readings:

0 psi = infinite resistance
30 psi = 200 ohms
60 psi = 110 ohms
110 psi = 80 ohms

If you don't have a volt/ohm/continuity tester, get one. A simple one is only a few dollars, and you don't need anything fancy for basic automotive troubleshooting. If you have any continuity between the electrical connector on the sender and ground, then the sender is faulty. Simple test, clear answer.