Ok, let me take a step back and make sure I have this straight.

The way he has it will produce negative camber, positive caster. My mistake, had that backwards in my head. And I was for some reason thinking that you could even effect toe with the strut (which you can't).

Thanks for the correction eage8.

 

Actually, moving the strut in or back will affect toe, since it changes the positioning of the steering knuckle relative to the steering linkage. Toe not hard to change, but again, needs to be measured first. The OP has correctly positioned the strut for max negative camber and positive caster, using the factory adjustment.

Toe can be checked fairly easily. A couple of tape measures, and some metal plates a few inches high and around the diameter of your tires in length (so the tape can catch on the edge), not be bent around the tire, or the underbody, stood up flat against the wheels on either side, measure the distance between the front of the plate (ahead of the wheel), and behind - you probably need a helper to keep the tapes hooked. More in front means toe out - agile, but more prone to tramline, and more than 1/8 or so toe out is a bit aggressive for the street, unless you want to change lanes with every twitch or sneeze (I've run 3/8" to 5/8" for autocross). Slight toe in is stable, but boring handling, so I'd suggest zero to 1/8" toe out.
If you don't want to adjust the tie-rod ends yourself to adjust toe, this will at least give you an idea of what your settings are and whether they are reasonable.