Porting practice
#177
^that pic was before I ground off the protruding upper flange of the aux port sleeve. I did not put Pineapple sleeves in this engine.
Here is the finished primary port:
So how does it run? Pretty well in my opinion. It has exceeded my expectations and has been 100% reliable other than a couple of leaks (use RTV sealant everywhere!) and the stock ECU's flooding issue. 98% of the time it starts up in about a second of cranking and has about 5000 miles on it now.
Before I put my autocross wheels on it my Gtech read .55 g in first gear, ~.35ish in second and around .25 in third. I never tried the quarter mile feature of the Gtech. This was with stock exhaust and very consistent. It is worth mentioning that I smoothed the inside of the intake manifold, ported the air flow meter and cone filter adapter, advanced the ignition timing about 10 degrees and have a brake duct cold air intake.
I am so poor due to college that I can't even get an adapter made to allow me to put my RB header on it and see how it reacts to a freer flowing exhaust. But it is so fun as is that I'm not complaining . . the g readings are pretty constant throughout the rpm range between shifting, so the power is not at all peaky. I autocrossed it last month and it was a lot quicker in the 2-3000 rpm range than I expected. The sound of the intake is pretty cool, and it scares off ricers. The goal of the ports was to produce power, drivability, and an even power band, and all of these criteria were met.
Here is the finished primary port:
So how does it run? Pretty well in my opinion. It has exceeded my expectations and has been 100% reliable other than a couple of leaks (use RTV sealant everywhere!) and the stock ECU's flooding issue. 98% of the time it starts up in about a second of cranking and has about 5000 miles on it now.
Before I put my autocross wheels on it my Gtech read .55 g in first gear, ~.35ish in second and around .25 in third. I never tried the quarter mile feature of the Gtech. This was with stock exhaust and very consistent. It is worth mentioning that I smoothed the inside of the intake manifold, ported the air flow meter and cone filter adapter, advanced the ignition timing about 10 degrees and have a brake duct cold air intake.
I am so poor due to college that I can't even get an adapter made to allow me to put my RB header on it and see how it reacts to a freer flowing exhaust. But it is so fun as is that I'm not complaining . . the g readings are pretty constant throughout the rpm range between shifting, so the power is not at all peaky. I autocrossed it last month and it was a lot quicker in the 2-3000 rpm range than I expected. The sound of the intake is pretty cool, and it scares off ricers. The goal of the ports was to produce power, drivability, and an even power band, and all of these criteria were met.
Last edited by 88IntegraLS; 04-10-04 at 02:50 AM.
#181
:gravedigging:
Nice thread! (Bummer all the older pics are gone) It's not easy finding straight info on porting NAs. Would you mind telling me what the final port timing numbers were?
This thread was just the kick in the *** I needed to start working over the old motor I have sitting in my garage. The center plate's coolant o-ring groove broke, so I started with that to minimize any losses if I goofed. I don't know what people are talking about saying the Dremel is too slow! With a tungsten carbide bit, it was taking off material almost as fast as I dared to go.
While I was checking the open position of the 6-port sleeve (to match the port to the sleeve), I found something interesting: The stock (dashpot) actuators don't open the sleeves all the way! The sleeves are only fully open when the pivot arm is against the lower stop, and mine were only moving through 3/4 of the available rotation. I thought there must be something wrong with that motor specifically, so I checked the one in my car and it had LESS travel!
I'm going to check FC-Chan's ride the next time I see it. I wonder if ANYONE's stock 6P system works correctly...
Nice thread! (Bummer all the older pics are gone) It's not easy finding straight info on porting NAs. Would you mind telling me what the final port timing numbers were?
This thread was just the kick in the *** I needed to start working over the old motor I have sitting in my garage. The center plate's coolant o-ring groove broke, so I started with that to minimize any losses if I goofed. I don't know what people are talking about saying the Dremel is too slow! With a tungsten carbide bit, it was taking off material almost as fast as I dared to go.
While I was checking the open position of the 6-port sleeve (to match the port to the sleeve), I found something interesting: The stock (dashpot) actuators don't open the sleeves all the way! The sleeves are only fully open when the pivot arm is against the lower stop, and mine were only moving through 3/4 of the available rotation. I thought there must be something wrong with that motor specifically, so I checked the one in my car and it had LESS travel!
I'm going to check FC-Chan's ride the next time I see it. I wonder if ANYONE's stock 6P system works correctly...
#182
I didn't check timing numbers because I wasn't quantifying anything, just taking the stock ports up and slightly outward to make them close much later but not open much earlier.
I did make sure to have the ports scissor against the rotor side seal so that the seal wouldn't get eaten when closing the ports. I also tried to put an outward bevel on them for the same reason. when you scissor the port closing edge, it won't get closed all at once, but partially as the rotor crosses it, like when blades of a pair of scissors are closing. This keeps the side seal from getting hung up on the closing edge.
Many a bad street port job have caused engine failure due to side seal damage.
I did make sure to have the ports scissor against the rotor side seal so that the seal wouldn't get eaten when closing the ports. I also tried to put an outward bevel on them for the same reason. when you scissor the port closing edge, it won't get closed all at once, but partially as the rotor crosses it, like when blades of a pair of scissors are closing. This keeps the side seal from getting hung up on the closing edge.
Many a bad street port job have caused engine failure due to side seal damage.
#183
I have used Jeffs templates with great results. My motor revs like a ************ and pulls considerably harder than before.
I havent messed with timing or intake yet and still have that true dual system waiting to be installed.
Here is my thread on the porting
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=258319
Kim
I havent messed with timing or intake yet and still have that true dual system waiting to be installed.
Here is my thread on the porting
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=258319
Kim
#185
Hmm... I think I may have gone a little later in closing than you did. I see what you mean about the scissoring. I'm gonna see if I have enough material left to do that. (The top of my aux port is kinda high)
I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done.
BTW, have you checked your aux port actuators to see if they turn the arms all the way to the stops? There could be some power there if they don't...
I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done.
BTW, have you checked your aux port actuators to see if they turn the arms all the way to the stops? There could be some power there if they don't...
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