porting ideas...check it out and tell me what you think
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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porting ideas...check it out and tell me what you think
Well i got board and dicided to sketch out some ports... my goal was a street port.. does any of them look good?? lemme know
![](https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/98716-porting-ideas-check-out-tell-me-what-you-think-dsc01404.jpg)
#2
Engine, Not Motor
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Um, great. But you need to lay them over an iron to get any idea of what works and what doesn't. Just off hand, 6 and 1 look unworkable because they interfere with the oil tracing line and corner/side seal.
Take a front or rear plate, eccentric and rotor. Assemble into "half" an engine. Put a piece of plexi/Lexan on top and cut a hole for the eccentric. Locate it onto the dowels. Now, rotate the shaft while you trace the various lines the seals make on the plexi. Now you have an idea where your port limits are as far as seals. You the need to establish where your limits are on the actual casting. That is a little more difficult to do without cutting plates apart and purposefully overporting.
Take a front or rear plate, eccentric and rotor. Assemble into "half" an engine. Put a piece of plexi/Lexan on top and cut a hole for the eccentric. Locate it onto the dowels. Now, rotate the shaft while you trace the various lines the seals make on the plexi. Now you have an idea where your port limits are as far as seals. You the need to establish where your limits are on the actual casting. That is a little more difficult to do without cutting plates apart and purposefully overporting.
#3
i am legendary
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/05_year_icon.png)
Well, I hope you aren't just drawing it on paper, because that won't work at all. You need to look at the actual iron and the path of things. You need to pay attention to the path of the corner seals, side seals, oil control rings, etc. You also need to pay attention to where the coolant passages start and stop on the iron so you're not running into them. You need to pay attention to side seal support, beveling the closing edge so that the side seals re-enter the iron with support rather than crashing into the side of the port. You also need to pay attention to corner seal support, like are you porting into the path of the corner seal? Is it going to still be supported enough? Are you getting too close to the water seal? Stuff like that.
To summarize, drawing on paper doesn't tell you anything. Really the best way to start is to get out a dry eraseable marker and draw some port shapes onto the iron itself. Pay attention to the lines on the iron for where everything travels, and look at how the coolant passages are set up. After you get an idea of a port shape transfer it to paper. Then transfer that to plexiglass. After transfering it to plexiglass put the engine partially together with the E-shaft and rotor on one iron and rotate the e-shaft (turning the rotor). Watch where the rotor turns and how things are supported. The plexiglass will provide this for you because it can sit on top of the rotor (remember to set up marks to line the template up with where it will sit on the iron), and as you rotate the e-shaft/rotor you can see how it travels across the port and if anything is going to cause problems.
For large streetports also pay VERY close attention to side seal clearancing otherwise your side seals will get eaten in a matter of a couple-few thousand miles. Scissor/bevel the edge of the port to ensure this support. Here's an example.
![](http://home.comcast.net/~rx7pics/support.jpg)
Notice the path of the corner seal with this port. Also notice the beveling involved to support the side seal. This is a good example of an aggressive aux/secondary streetport.
All in all, you cannot just draw on a piece of paper to make a port template, really. It wont tell you nearly enough as you need to know.
To summarize, drawing on paper doesn't tell you anything. Really the best way to start is to get out a dry eraseable marker and draw some port shapes onto the iron itself. Pay attention to the lines on the iron for where everything travels, and look at how the coolant passages are set up. After you get an idea of a port shape transfer it to paper. Then transfer that to plexiglass. After transfering it to plexiglass put the engine partially together with the E-shaft and rotor on one iron and rotate the e-shaft (turning the rotor). Watch where the rotor turns and how things are supported. The plexiglass will provide this for you because it can sit on top of the rotor (remember to set up marks to line the template up with where it will sit on the iron), and as you rotate the e-shaft/rotor you can see how it travels across the port and if anything is going to cause problems.
For large streetports also pay VERY close attention to side seal clearancing otherwise your side seals will get eaten in a matter of a couple-few thousand miles. Scissor/bevel the edge of the port to ensure this support. Here's an example.
![](http://home.comcast.net/~rx7pics/support.jpg)
Notice the path of the corner seal with this port. Also notice the beveling involved to support the side seal. This is a good example of an aggressive aux/secondary streetport.
All in all, you cannot just draw on a piece of paper to make a port template, really. It wont tell you nearly enough as you need to know.
Last edited by ddub; 02-27-05 at 04:32 PM.
#4
i am legendary
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Um, great. But you need to lay them over an iron to get any idea of what works and what doesn't. Just off hand, 6 and 1 look unworkable because they interfere with the oil tracing line and corner/side seal.
Take a front or rear plate, eccentric and rotor. Assemble into "half" an engine. Put a piece of plexi/Lexan on top and cut a hole for the eccentric. Locate it onto the dowels. Now, rotate the shaft while you trace the various lines the seals make on the plexi. Now you have an idea where your port limits are as far as seals. You the need to establish where your limits are on the actual casting. That is a little more difficult to do without cutting plates apart and purposefully overporting.
Take a front or rear plate, eccentric and rotor. Assemble into "half" an engine. Put a piece of plexi/Lexan on top and cut a hole for the eccentric. Locate it onto the dowels. Now, rotate the shaft while you trace the various lines the seals make on the plexi. Now you have an idea where your port limits are as far as seals. You the need to establish where your limits are on the actual casting. That is a little more difficult to do without cutting plates apart and purposefully overporting.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
I guess I rambled on for too long.
#7
i am legendary
![](https://www.rx7club.com/images/misc/05_year_icon.png)
Originally Posted by RETed
Ouch...grinder slipped... ![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
-Ted
![Frown](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/frown.gif)
-Ted
And so people know, that's not mine, it's 88IntegraLS's design. He has a pretty crazy port for his aux/secondary and primary ports. I was able to obtain a template of his to play with, looks very promising
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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