Ported Throttle Body
#26
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You can do that but the performance difference is basically nothing on an NA.
BTW, capital letters don't go at the beginning of every word, only the beginning of sentences. That's really getting annoying...
BTW, capital letters don't go at the beginning of every word, only the beginning of sentences. That's really getting annoying...
#27
i am legendary
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
BTW, capital letters don't go at the beginning of every word, only the beginning of sentences. That's really getting annoying...
That's the forum correcting him. When someone types out a post in all caps the forum changes all but the first letter to lowercase.
To solve the problem he just needs to not type his posts in all caps..
#28
So on a t2 with intake, 3" tid pipe and full 3" exhaust would removing the extra butterflies and porting the tb make enough power to be worth taking things apart??? Thats what Im running and everyone on this thread says its not worth it on an n/a what kind of power do people see with a t2 and the above mods??
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Well, since the car in question is 'forced induction', it would be beneficial. Just how much? That remains to be seen with the layout differences between the TB before the 'compressor' and after.
#34
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I think you missed my point.
The Turbo TB has a damper that slows the opening of the #2 secondary throttles, so removing them makes a noticable difference to throttle response. On the NA TB (which he has) those throttles are held open all the time so removing them doesn't make any difference to throttle response and only removes a relatively small restriction.
I'm not saying he shouldn't remove them, just that he shouldn't expect to notice anything.
The Turbo TB has a damper that slows the opening of the #2 secondary throttles, so removing them makes a noticable difference to throttle response. On the NA TB (which he has) those throttles are held open all the time so removing them doesn't make any difference to throttle response and only removes a relatively small restriction.
I'm not saying he shouldn't remove them, just that he shouldn't expect to notice anything.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 12-29-04 at 02:35 AM.
#35
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I think you missed my point.
The Turbo TB has a damper that slows the opening of the #2 secondary throttles, so removing them makes a noticable difference to throttle response. On the NA TB (which he has) those throttles are held open all the time so removing them doesn't make any difference to throttle response and only removes a relatively small restriction.
I'm not saying he shouldn't remove them, just that he shouldn't expect to notice anything.
The Turbo TB has a damper that slows the opening of the #2 secondary throttles, so removing them makes a noticable difference to throttle response. On the NA TB (which he has) those throttles are held open all the time so removing them doesn't make any difference to throttle response and only removes a relatively small restriction.
I'm not saying he shouldn't remove them, just that he shouldn't expect to notice anything.
#38
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Bad Digicam.... bad digicam
Might as well polish the whole thing while you are at it!!!!
PS.... A die grinder, a 1/2 burr, a 1.5 inch flap wheel, a 1.5 inch felt bullet buff and a dremel tool with a 1/2 bullet buff are your friends when porting a t-body!!!!
Just modded, ported and polished a 20b t-body and polshied the UIM and LIM for KDR....
I did my TII t-body before i did the haltech and BNRIII.. there was a noticeable improvement in response.... now... with the AFM gone and a whole buttload more hosepower... If I had money falling out my *** for dyno time, i'd stick a regular t-body on do several dynos, and then my modded and ported tbody on and see if there were any real HP number differences... But it does feel crisper, that i know from swapping them out.
Might as well polish the whole thing while you are at it!!!!
PS.... A die grinder, a 1/2 burr, a 1.5 inch flap wheel, a 1.5 inch felt bullet buff and a dremel tool with a 1/2 bullet buff are your friends when porting a t-body!!!!
Just modded, ported and polished a 20b t-body and polshied the UIM and LIM for KDR....
I did my TII t-body before i did the haltech and BNRIII.. there was a noticeable improvement in response.... now... with the AFM gone and a whole buttload more hosepower... If I had money falling out my *** for dyno time, i'd stick a regular t-body on do several dynos, and then my modded and ported tbody on and see if there were any real HP number differences... But it does feel crisper, that i know from swapping them out.
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 12-30-04 at 10:17 PM.
#39
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I think there are definite gains to be had in the NA TB. I worked mine over and not only found enough power to feel the difference, but I can stay in the throttle for another 500RPM before the power falls off. Throttle response is instantaneous.
I removed the extra throttle and plugged the holes, smoothed and profiled the dividers (left them at full height), profiled the throttle shafts and used shorter countersink screws so the shafts are totally smooth, and knife-edged and polished the butterflies.
The countersink bit I used can be had in any hardware store for about $5 and works in any drill. I also used a die grinder with a carbide burr for shaping and a homemade sandpaper flapper for polish.
I recommend this to anyone who feels they have the skills to do it. I also recommend getting a used TB, modifying it and then installing it both to minimize downtime and so it's not such a big deal if you screw it up.
Free advice, worth what you paid for it...
I removed the extra throttle and plugged the holes, smoothed and profiled the dividers (left them at full height), profiled the throttle shafts and used shorter countersink screws so the shafts are totally smooth, and knife-edged and polished the butterflies.
The countersink bit I used can be had in any hardware store for about $5 and works in any drill. I also used a die grinder with a carbide burr for shaping and a homemade sandpaper flapper for polish.
I recommend this to anyone who feels they have the skills to do it. I also recommend getting a used TB, modifying it and then installing it both to minimize downtime and so it's not such a big deal if you screw it up.
Free advice, worth what you paid for it...
#41
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Originally Posted by ScrapFC
I think there are definite gains to be had in the NA TB. I worked mine over and not only found enough power to feel the difference, but I can stay in the throttle for another 500RPM before the power falls off. Throttle response is instantaneous.
#42
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
That looks amazing yearsofdecay, how do you polish it like that? It looks like its been chromed. What tools/supplies do you need?
oh... and about two hours of your time (an hour after you've done 20 of 'em). (thats just for the outside...
Here's A3D-Illusions's lower control arm that i just did tonight.... Off the subject I know.. but what the hell
Serously though... I really think that there is good merit to porting the throttlebody, especially when you start flowing high boost and at high RPMS
Last edited by YearsOfDecay; 01-04-05 at 10:46 PM.
#43
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Yea your right, but you need to have the AFM removed to see a real difference. You have to eliminate the bottleneck before the throttlebody before you can push more air through it.
#44
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Originally Posted by YearsOfDecay
I really think that there is good merit to porting the throttlebody, especially when you start flowing high boost and at high RPMS
Don't forget that you aren't actually "porting" the TB at all, since you still have three stock-sized 45mm bores afterwards. All you're doing is smoothing out the air path to the throttles a bit, not making the TB bigger.
Last edited by NZConvertible; 01-04-05 at 10:53 PM.
#45
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Is there any way to get an adapter to put on a particular aftermarket TB that flows more air? Like if you cut out the three holes on the actual UIM plenum, and bolted on an adapter with two bigger, or one bigger throttle body?
#46
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I agree that the butt dyno is less than accurate for hp numbers, but it works just fine for determining where the power curve lies. Also, when you drive your car every day you get to know it pretty well. I can feel a difference in acceleration depending on whether or not I have a passenger. (It helps having an NA and not a whole lot of power to begin with...)
That said, I did back-to-back pulls before and after I swapped my TB. My "after" run felt exactly the same as my "before" run, (shifted at 7K rpm) so I was disappointed. I was much more pleased when I realized I had been alone before and brought a passenger after. Then I tried it alone and it seemed a bit peppier. More importantly, my shift point moved to 7500rpm and throttle response is now instantaneous. (great for autox!)
That said, I did back-to-back pulls before and after I swapped my TB. My "after" run felt exactly the same as my "before" run, (shifted at 7K rpm) so I was disappointed. I was much more pleased when I realized I had been alone before and brought a passenger after. Then I tried it alone and it seemed a bit peppier. More importantly, my shift point moved to 7500rpm and throttle response is now instantaneous. (great for autox!)
#47
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Originally Posted by BlaCkPlaGUE
Is there any way to get an adapter to put on a particular aftermarket TB that flows more air? Like if you cut out the three holes on the actual UIM plenum, and bolted on an adapter with two bigger, or one bigger throttle body?
Originally Posted by ScrapFC
That said, I did back-to-back pulls before and after I swapped my TB. My "after" run felt exactly the same as my "before" run, (shifted at 7K rpm) so I was disappointed. I was much more pleased when I realized I had been alone before and brought a passenger after. Then I tried it alone and it seemed a bit peppier. More importantly, my shift point moved to 7500rpm and throttle response is now instantaneous.
I'm glad you noticed positive results, but this should not be considered a typical result from the TB mod on an NA.
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