I didn't rebuild, someone else did. Reason I say no blow by, which you are right, is probubly incorrect since there probubly is very little, is because I don't feel any pressure at the oil filler neck like I could with my old engine. I had to drill a hole in the oil filler cap to release the tremendous amount of pressure that was building up.

The apex seal shouldn't make physical metal to metal contact on the rotor housing, unfortunatly this happends though. The oil injection is suppose to lubricate the rotor housing surface. The Apex seals are not designed as oil scraper seals like the side seals are.

 

This would be easier to explain if a drew it. But basically no, it won't backflow. Basically the filters each create restriction, which causes a pressure drop. The oil pump causes a pressure increase. Any 2 spots connected by open pipe (no filters, pump, etc.) have roughly the same pressure. So you have 1 pressure before the flow branches into 2 paths ("pressure #1"). It branches and both branches still have the same pressure (still "pressure #1"). Then after the filters the pressure drops to something else ("pressure #2" and "pressure #3"). Since the flow rejoins ("pressure #4"), these pressures are the same ("pressure #2" = "pressure #3" = "pressure #4"). "Pressure #1" > "Pressure #4", so the oil won't backflow.

Oh, and don't worry too much, the forums can be helpful too. But when you hit a hot topic like oil, V8's, etc. then people tend to get pretty argumentative. Ironically they cooling system seems to be far more important to engine longevity than oil, but doesn't get discussed half as much. I'm basing this on the number of people who come to the forums posting about an engine that blew due to coolant issues, and a survey I recently started. Checking your coolant regularly, frequent coolant changes, an OEM thermostat and never ever overheating are the real ways to rotary longevity. I printed out a post of a forum member with 300k on his engine. I store it in my car. Oil changes every 5k, coolant changes every year (instead of every 3 years), also did all other basic maintenance and repairs. Finally lost his engine when GM Dextron (sp?) coolant ate through his radiator (took less than 1 week) and he overheated. Before that he had minor white smoke for 50k miles, from a minor coolant seal leak IIRC.

 

Ted is right, and you are a dumbass. In a properly functioning system, the crankcase should not be under any pressure- even if there is ridiculous amounts of blow-by. The stock PCV system should be capable of dealing with any amount of blowby and relieving the crank of pressure. What is sounds to me is that you couldn't figure this out and just did the easiest and possibly dumbest fix possible.

 

YOU sir are right on the fact that the crankcase is not supposed to be under pressure. Years ago I capped off the lower hole on the filler neck which only caused pressure to build. The PCV could not keep up and the pressure would blow the vacuum cap and PCV vacuum hose right off. You say it SHOULD keep up, well guess what, it didn't. Now the PCV system is working perfectly with my rebuild and after I install my CAI, I will pipe the lower nipple to the intake before the TB where it should be, and plug up the cap, which I could actually do tomarrow if I have time.

Ted said the system is supposed to be under pressure which its NOT. So HE is WRONG.
Ted is also wrong in thinking that the apex seal scrapes the oil off the rotor housings and that they are always contactig the housing. WRONG. Why the hell do you think we need to lubricate in the chambers? Actually, we are lubricating the rotor housings so that there is a small film of oil between the apex seals and housing surface.

 

Thanks for that. I understand better now

Ya I know all about the cooling system. Everything in mine is basically new except for the t-stat. Coolent is about one year old since I recently put the rebuild in. After I get done with a few other fixes I will have the coolent changed out. I have to work on the brake system and wheel bearings first so I don't have to worry next year at inspection

 

You got your answer. And, you are the one without any facts besides overhyped Amsoil claims. Yes, understand the test and you'll understand why their data is flawed.

Your keep crying about your question not being answered. It was, along with info that you don't care to understand, then challenged. You sound like a brainless amsoil drone. They definitely sold you.

Now, it becomes a cooling thread. But, so its ok to for one person to change the thread or make a comment and nobody else?

Efficiency of TP? I'll put my roll of TP up against your Amsoil ANY DAY. YOU PAY FOR THE INDEPENDENT TESTING. I can even recommend a few labs. BTW, I've seen TP with reduced oil flow at 10k miles. Amsoil bypass filters did not have reduce flow at 30k miles. Which is catching and holding more? Efficiency is a pretty big word. How do you define it? I define it as catching, holding, and clogging up. If the filter lasts forever, what the hell is it catching or holding? That would be common sense. You won't get that from a classroom.

I make the BE vs EABP comparison based on experience and not silly Amsoil advertising/marketing campaign. BTW, a TP filter mounted directed after that fancy Amsoil EABP unit will catch plenty of stuff. That means the TP is doing worked skipped over by the Amsoil. Flip the filter order and guess which becomes a useless appendage? Want proof? Test it yourself. TP canisters can be had for $50. What'd you pay for that Amsoil kit? And, Amsoil BE bypass canisters are still around. Find them on ebay or yardsales. Compare their older bypass with their newer one. Its an eyeopener. No fancy marketing pitch either. You'll be able to share your experience and draw your own opinion on that experience.

Its funny that you claim to know so much but can't plug in your Amsoil kit which comes with pretty damn good directions. Why even start the thread? Read the fukcing directions. If you have excessive oil consumption, then the oil cap is the wrong place for the bypass return. Punching a hole in the pan is the best place for the return.

Bypass filtration mounted with cap or pan returns are parasitic. This means that ANY oil PSI and FLOW LOST through that filter is LOST. If have have more then 10psi lost, you risk increasing wear. If you lose too much flow, you risk starving the engine. Thats OK. That bypass filter filter flows well enough for 440CID diesel engine with overbuilt oiling system.How much surplus PSI/flow does a 13b NA have? So much that Mazda used a bigger oil pump in the T2 to make up for feeding the turbo? seriously higher PSI to feed twin turbos?
Also, you don't need to plumb the return to a 0-PSI area like the cap or pan. For a bypass filter to function, all you need is differential. You can run it between two points in your oil system as long as there is some resistance in between those points. When plumbed this way, it is NOT parasitic. Feed it before the cooler and return after the stock filter would be an option.

Let your sidekick babble on how my 20 years of experience is worth less then his semester of textbooks.

Oh, if you want to deal with fuel dilution, you'll need a HEATED/vented bypass. But, thats way beyond anything Amsoil can produce.

Bypass filters aren't a hot topic. But, they are wrongly used in some applications. Synthetic oil and synthetic media also have the same issue. They have their places.

ReTed might be arrogant at times. But, he does know what he is talking about. That comes with experience in the real world.

You don't get that from textbooks mr engineer. Actually, that engineering title comes with a bad ego. Work in the real world and you might understand a little more. Solve problems that textbooks don't, and one day you might understand.
Eric, how many bypass filters have you installed? serviced? in vehicles? manufacturing? power production? brands used? flow loss through filter studied? orifice sizes studied? pressure drop studied? Dig through your textbooks. They might have a chapter on it somewhere.

 

Its not ok for anybody to change the thread. I just wanted my question answered and I got a whole line of bulshit just for asking it. Untill you show me some proof of all your hyped up facts, im not going to accept a whole lot of info from you.

If you understood what I said, I meant I wasn't sure how well the TP filters worked, just from what I read.

You nor anyone else besides ericgrau helped me with ym original question. I did the research on other sites as well. You can keep your Pure ONE filter. Why do you think the filter can go for so long? Because the synthetic fibers are so small in size compaired to cellulose fibers. The fibers them selfs cause restriction in flow. What do you think causes more restriction? Large cellulose fibers holding crap, or tiny synthetic fibers holding crap.

I havn't ordered it at all. I don't have it. Wow, this forum is filled with people filled with asumptions.

thank you for more information. Eric already got to it before you. Since I was also thinking of plumbing it into the oil pedistal because I KNOW if I plumbed it into the oil pan or anywhere that bypassed the system and straight to the pan, I would loose flow, which is the reason I was thinking of putting on a T2 oil pump. You would know that if you read my original post. Instead, I wanted to plumb it somehwere, where it would circulate with the rest of the oil, all I can think of is the oil pedistal.

You don't think 180*F + oil will cause fuel to evaporate? The oil system IS vented, normally to the intake and is also vented by the PCV.

Really? If this is what his experience boils down to, then I hope know one listens to him.

What are you trying to point out here? I guess know one should read textbooks then because they are completly wrong. Amsoil published them right?

 

I am also going to read up more on the TP filters but by no means was I trying to state a fact that TP is worse then amsoil. I know there are better filters out there then amsoil, not saying they are the best, but just damn good. I may or may not get the bypass filter. I have been thinking of the tolerences in the bearings and how small the film of oil is between everything, I'm starting to think that filtering smaller then what the amsoil full flow can filter down won't make any difference.

I am going to find out further on the tolerences of the bearings and such.

 

Btw, the PCV system is supposed to be connected to a vacuum source AFTER the TB, not before it. AllMotorRotor, you are fighting a losing battle on this thread. Calling Ted an idiot is stupidity on your part. He's been around rotaries for a long time now, and definitely knows what he's talking about.

 

I imagine the system would still greatly extend the wear life on the engine. Probably is, rotaries rarely fail due to wear. Their normal wear life is already very, very long. Anyone with a rotary race car can see that. It's usually an overheat, overboost, etc. that kills the engine.

 

Yes I know this. The PCV is connected the way it shoudl be. The top vacuum nipple gets connected to to the TB which doesn't have constant vacuum. Only has vacuum after 2000 rpm or after the throttle plate in the TB moves over the tiny hole on the top of the primary TB bore.

The bottom small hose has constant vacuum.

I know about the PCV

You obveously didn't read what I wrote correctly.

Im sure he does, but not from what I have seen. Thinking there is no lubrication between the Apex seals and housings and thinking the PCV keeps the oil pan pressurized..... Doesn't sound like he knows a whole lot in this area.

Coming in hear sticking up for Ted doesn't seem like a bright idea when he is not correct.

 

I've been withholding judgement since I've seen good and bad from Ted in the past. Heck, even the rotary gurus can go overboard sometimes. But the gurus still know more than I do and I still refer people to them and their info. Best way is to examine the evidence/reasoing/facts/etc., not so much people, IMO. And check multiple sources/people.

About 1 response and the O.P.'s original concern: If the bypass flow goes to or comes from the lubricated engine parts, then you aren't losing pressure/flow. You are gaining it, b/c you are actually reducing restriction by providing an alternate pathway (as I said). But if 10% of your flow is going from the sump to the pump to the bypass filter to the sump again, without ever passing through the lubricated engine parts, then you are in fact losing 10% of your flow (well, not exactly, due to pump flow/pressure characteristics, the pressure regulator, etc.; but you get the idea). Dang, now I'm curious which way AMS plumbs the bypass. Oh well, if I ever get a bypass system I'll just check the directions on AMS' website.